How to Ditch Google Voice (and Keep All the Best Features)
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Google Voice is a service we've loved for a long time, but any Voice user that's honest with themselves knows the service has been a second-class citizen for a while now. If you're feeling like it's time to move on, here's how to ease the transition (and even keep most of your favorite features in the process). P
Phone-ify Your Computer for Considerably Improved At-Home Calls and Texts
You know what's absurd? When you're sitting at your computer, decide you want to text a…Read more
A Note on the Types of Google Voice Accounts P
"Google Voice" is a bit of an unclear term because there are actually two types of Google Voice accounts. Anyone can sign up for what's known as a "Lite" account. You can use Google Voice Lite as your voicemail service, which includes features like transcription and personalized greetings. If you only have this type of account, you probably don't need to leave. You can still skip ahead to the features section below to add some cool stuff to your phone. P
Full Google Voice accounts, on the other hand, require you to either create or port in a phone number. This allows you to forward calls to different phones, send SMS messages from your desktop or as data from your phone without counting towards your limit, and several other features. Unfortunately, this comes with some pretty crippling compatibility problems (chief among them, no MMS support). If you're in this group, you probably need to change your number or port out your Google Voice number to another line. P
How to Port Your Number Out of Google Voice P
Whether you ported an old number into Google Voice or you created one natively in the service, you'll need to port your number out to your current wireless carrier. Before you can however, you'll need to unlock it. Google has instructions on how to do that here. P
Once you've unlocked your Google Voice number, you can freely port it to your carrier. Your carrier will probably ask for an account number to use for the porting process. The account number is the same as your Google Voice number, so provide that that a second time. P
Depending on your carrier, you may need to wait a couple of days for the porting process to fully complete. During this time, you should still be able to use your Google Voice number like normal. Once the process is completed, if you so choose, you can set up Google Voice Lite on your account so you can continue using some of the features you're used to. P
A Note on Sprint: Sprint is the only US carrier that allows you to integrate your existing phone number into Google Voice without getting a second line. However, a very small number of people are even using this function. Because of this, some Sprint reps may not have a clear understanding of how Google Voice works. Be sure to triple check with anyone you call before committing to any changes. P
How to Keep Some of the Better Features P
As we stated earlier, voicemail transcription and personalized greetings are still available with Google Voice Lite, so you don't necessarily need to find new services to keep using these. However, texting and calling from the desktop, as well as call forwarding need some extra services. P
Get Desktop SMS with MightyText P
One of the best features of Google Voice was the ability to send and receive text messages from your computer. In its absence, MightyText can pick up the slack (and even do a whole lot more). The primary difference between MightyText and Google Voice is that the former uses a client installed on your phone to send and receive texts, so you'll still need your phone on and connected to the internet in order to work. P
Start by installing the MightyText Android app on your phone. The service will use your Google account to sync, so log in to your primary account. You can then use either the MightyText Web App, Chrome extension, or you can install the Android app on your tablet to text from any device. You can also send and receive MMS messages, access your contacts, or ring your phone if you've misplaced it. P
If you're on iOS, MightyText isn't available, but you can use TextFree from Pinger to send text messages from your computer, or use iMessage to communicate with other iOS users. P
Keep Calling From Your Desktop with Gmail or Skype P
Google gives Google Voice users the ability to place phone calls from your desktop that still appear to come from the same number. Fortunately, even if you leave Voice, you can still place phone calls directly inside Gmail. In the Hangouts sidebar, click the magnifying glass icon, click the phone icon, and search for the person you want to call. Click their name and a new window will open up with a Hangouts voice call ringing that person's phone. P
If you don't want to use Hangouts (or can't because you're outside the US), Skype offers the ability to place phone calls from your desktop, though it also charges for the privilege and requires you to use an assigned number, rather than your actual phone number. P
Get One-Number Call Forwarding with Skype P
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One number for all your phones was by far the biggest promise Google Voice made and, so far, it's still hard to top Google's option in this area. However, it's certainly not the only game in town anymore. Skype allows you to create a phone number that you can use to receive Skype calls, as well as forward them to your mobile phone. Unfortunately, the service isn't free like Google Voice, but it is available in more countries and, since calling is Skype's primary service, it's less likely to disappear any time soon. P
Keep Your Voicemail with Google Voice, Or Use YouMail P
As we mentioned before, Google Voice still works as a voicemail provider. If you'd like to keep using that, you can. However, if you want to separate from Google entirely, YouMail provides similar functionality for voicemail users. The service provides visual voicemail, allows you to set custom greetings based on who's calling, and selectively block callers. P
Posted on July 9th, 2014
Lawn mower problems for a novice - Lawn Mowers Forum - GardenWeb
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I have 6.75 horsepower 21" rear discharge rotary lawn mower model number 917.388610. I have had it for 9 years now, and just recently when I start the mower it runs for about 25 seconds then shut off. I have checked the oil,gas,gas cap, and air filter, and everything's fine with the exception of a tiny bit more oil then the line but not by much.
Like I stated I am a novice when it comes to mowers, but I am hoping I can save a few bucks, instead of taking it somewhere to get it fixed. Does anyone having any suggestions of what the problems might be?? Thanks |
Follow-Up Postings:
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Sorry I forgot to give you the manufacturer Craftsman model 917.388610 |
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A good place to start is to flush the fuel system and drop the bowl and give the carb a quick clean. Fresh fuel is a must. A carb issue is normally an up and run for a few seconds and die. Does it chug for the 25 seconds or just quit? If it just quits, there are other possibilities, maybe even a funky spark plug. |
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Actually it starts and it's sounds like it's running normal for about 20-30 seconds then all of sudden just dies. I took off the carburator and have cleaned the whole think inside and out with cleaner. I must ask though, how do you reattach the float, I can't get in to stay in place. Thanks again |
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Usually they die long before 25 seconds. If it uses a Tecumseh carb sticking out the left side of the engine, that could be the problem. They can be weird. The float sometimes hangs up, or it becomes vapor locked. Try gently banging the front wheels, using the handlebar, if you can get it started. Sometimes the fuel just doesn't flow to the carb, especially if the tank was empty. |
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Yep it is a tecumseh carb sticking out the left side of the engine. I got the tecumseh carb kit replaced the gasket on the float, put the new float seat gasket in and reattached the carb all the lines etc.... started it and it ran for 5 minutes did 1/4 of the yard, then it stopped running and I haven't been able to restart. |
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Looks like you need to clean the entire fuel system and know that the fuel from your supply can is clean and fresh. Hense flush the fuel system. Replacing the fuel line could have been a good thing too- whilst you were at the parts counter. Cleaning or even replacing a carb with out servicing the rest of the fuel system buys you about 5 minutes.... |
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I'm sorry if I ask dumb questions, this is the 1st time I've ever worked on any type of a engine. How do I clean the entire fuel system? I also heard you could buy a fuel system cleaner is that same. |
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Use a turkey baster and remove most of the fuel from the tank and put it into a proper container. Then you can remove the fuel line at the carb connection and drain the rest of the gas into the container, all done with the engine cold and outdoors on a concrete pad. Thoroughly dry the inside of the tank with either compressed air or rags and remove any dust left behind. Hook the fuel line back up if you decide not to replace it. Put about a cup of fuel into the tank. Now loosen the bowl nut on the carb just enough until gas starts seeping out into a small container under the bowl. I like to use the bottom of an milk jug for that job. Drain out about 2 oz. of fuel and retighten the bowl nut. The mower should run. If it doesn't, you have to clean the inside of the carb, or maybe you can add something to the tank, such as Seafoam, available at NAPA and let that do it's work over a longer period of time. Most problems like your are fixed this way, or by cleaning the main jet as I posted previously. Below. From time to time the question is asked about why an engine will not run long, or smoothly, or will start with starting fluid and not continue to run. The problem is usually because of a blocked or constricted jet. The small ones are easy to miss.
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Sorry been gone for a couple days, I did everything you said and it still won't start. Cleaned the jets holes and gas tank with air all the hose were replaced to no avail. One thing I did notice today, is near the bottom of the oil stick there is a little bit a sludge, could be normal,oil reading is good. Muffler is old but, got to start a couple days before, just doesn't make sense to me. |
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Use a small container to catch the gas and loosen the carb's bowl nut a turn or two. Let gas drip for about 30 seconds to affirm that you are getting gas from the tank and tighten the nut again. Then try to start it. |
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So I took apart the carb again, and realised that when I replaced the float needle seat, originally I didn't see the original seat so I stuck the new one right on top. I took them booth out just, put the new one in, cleaned everything while I was in there and it started. Did the whole back yard shut it off. Then it wouldn't restart, so I took the cap and air filter off put some stp gas treatment in then it started did the front and the back again to let the stp work itself in and now everything works fine (cross my finger in 2 weeks). But I shut if off 3 times and each time it started. Thanks again everybody for the help you guys are awesome, saved me some cash I don't have at the moment. |
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Posted on June 30th, 2014
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Posted on June 30th, 2014
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Posted on June 19th, 2014
Build a Bug Out Kindle: A Digital Survival Library at Your Fingertips
Editor’s note: This is a guest post from Creek Stewart, Senior Instructor at the Willow Haven Outdoor School for Survival, Preparedness & Bushcraft.
A “bug out situation" is the phrase used to describe a survival scenario which makes staying at home more dangerous than leaving. Disasters — natural and manmade — happen to regular people on a regular basis, driving them from their homes in search of a safer destination. Oftentimes, evacuees are forced to survive with their wits and the survival supplies they can carry on their back. You may have read my article here — How to Make a Bug Out Bag — or my book which that article inspired titled Build the Perfect Bug Out Bag. If so, you already have a head-start in building your own personal 72-hour disaster kit to help you and your family survive a potential bug out evacuation. This article is written with that same conviction — to help further prepare you for when the unthinkable knocks at your front door.
Here’s the good news: survival knowledge weighs nothing.
This is true for those who practice and study survival and preparedness skills on a regular basis. But for those who don’t, access to that survival knowledge only has to weigh about 1 pound – the weight of an Amazon Kindle. I’m not at all suggesting that the practice and study of survival skills should or can be replaced by ebooks. However, an entire survival library of information at your fingertips just may be the one survival tool in your Bug Out Bag that saves your life.
Until recent years, carrying millions of pages of survival information in your Bug Out Bag was not only impractical, it was impossible. Digital readers such as the Amazon Kindle have been a game changer in how we buy, store, organize, and read books. I’ve traditionally been very anti-digital when it comes to packing electronics in my Bug Out Bag. Their fragility and short battery life have always fallen short of the demanding requirements that a bug out situation presents. The recent advent of lightweight portable power and waterproof/shock-resistant cases (both discussed later) now makes this bug out survival resource very durable and practical, no matter what Mother Nature throws your way.
Building Your Survival Library
No digital reader will ever replace the feeling of sitting back in my favorite chair and leafing through the tattered pages of my very early Boy Scout Handbook that I picked up at a flea market for fifteen cents when I was a kid. I’ve dissected that manual for more than 30 years and it never gets old. I’ll hate to leave it and many of my other favorite hard copy books behind when I bug out. But, I have most of them on my Kindle just in case.
When it comes to stocking your Kindle or tablet with survival related information, I definitely have some recommendations. This is far from an exhaustive list, but it is a great start for anyone interested in building a good foundation on a Bug Out Kindle. I’ve divided these suggestions into 6 main categories: Survival Skills, Shelter, Water, Fire, Food, First Aid, and Documents.
Survival Skills
These are titles that discuss a variety of well-rounded survival skills. Many of them are complete survival manuals, and therefore touch on all 6 categories mentioned above.
How to Stay Alive in the Woods: A Complete Guide to Food, Shelter and Self-Preservation Anywhere by Bradford Angier
This is a classic wilderness survival book originally written in the 50s. It’s packed full of practical wilderness survival skills revolving around shelter, water, fire, and food. Bradford wrote several other outdoor skills books worth considering as well.
Wilderness Survival by Gregory J. Davenport
Greg is an Air Force SERE (Survival, Evasion, Resistance and Escape) specialist and this is one of the best books written on the subject. His discussion and illustrations of protection, sustenance, signaling, travel, and health is as good as it gets.
US ARMY Survival Manual FM 21-76
This is a very straightforward and to-the-point survival manual with field-tested survival techniques bought and paid for by hard-earned US tax dollars. This manual is packed full of great survival know-how and should be in every survival library.
Back to Basics by Abigail Gehring
This book is packed full of practical pioneer-type homesteading skills such as growing food, canning, keeping chickens, generating energy, and herbal medicine. This is a great read for anyone interested in the nuts and bolts of living like our grandparents did at the turn of the century.
Basic Safe Travel and Boreal Handbook by Mors Kochanski
One of the best books written about surviving in the north woods and Canada. Mors is one of the most articulate and intelligent survival authors I have ever read. He has several smaller ebooks available (some mentioned later) that are excellent reads and are very inexpensive. I own pretty much all of them. Some of my favorites are: Basic Wilderness Survival in Cold Lacking Snow, Fire Skills of the Northern Forest, The Lean-To and It’s Variants, A Survival Kit Shelter, and Top Seven Knots.
Outdoor Survival Skills by Larry Dean Olsen
Larry is truly a master of the primitive arts and is an icon in the world of primitive survival skills. His use and skill with natural materials such as leather, bone, rock, and wood are unparalleled. Whether making a bow and arrow or tanning hides, this guy teaches a huge variety of primitive skills.
US Air Force Pocket Survival Manual
This is my favorite of the government survival manuals. I really like the illustrations and it seems to contain a bigger variety of skills. There is also a huge section on the psychological effects of survival and evasion. Most survival guides lack in these categories.
Build the Perfect Bug Out Bag: Your 72-hour Disaster Survival Kit by Yours Truly – Creek Stewart
If you haven’t yet begun the process of building a Bug Out Bag, this book is a great start. It’s more of a manual to help get it done than it is a survival skills book, but I do list tons of survival tips and tricks for getting the biggest bang for your buck when building a Bug Out Bag.
Shelter
Many of the books in the Survival Skills category above cover shelter in one way, shape, or form, but the books below discuss this topic almost exclusively.
The Lean-To and It’s Variants Used in Survival and Bush Bough Beds by Mors Kochanski
One of the best cold weather shelter reads available. I love Mors’ intellectual approach to survival and shelter building.
The Super Shelter by Mors Kochanski
Mors pretty much invented the “super shelter" design which uses plastic sheeting and mylar blankets to create an amazing cold weather survival shelter.
Shelters, Shacks, and Shanties by D.C. Beard
From lean-tos to log cabins, mountain man shelter ideas abound in this book. This is one that will make you want to go out, build a fort in the woods, and sleep there.
Water
Titles in this category deal almost exclusively with finding, collecting, filtering, and purifying wild water.
Harvesting H2O by Nicholas Hyde
An excellent discussion about the collection, treatment, and storage of water while living off the grid.
Water Purification by Will Jameson
An incredibly thorough discussion about water purification, storage, and acquisition.
Water 4 Survival by Paul Andrulis
Another helpful read about finding water, determining whether it’s safe to drink, and teaching how to make it safe for consumption.
Fire
I’ve only listed one title in this category, as many of the titles in the Survival Skills category discuss fire in great detail and are excellent fire resources.
Fire Skills: 50 Methods for Starting Fires Without Matches by David Aman
This is a great primer in exploring many different methods of making fire. It lists 50 different fire-starting methods, some of which are very inventive and fun. Reading this book will not make you a fire master; only practicing fire starting will do this, but you can use this book to get different ideas to challenge your skills and broaden your knowledge base.
Food
Whether foraging for wild foods or stockpiling your own, these titles deal exclusively with sustenance.
21 Native Wild Edible Plants by Mors Kochanski
This inexpensive ebook is worth the money simply to read Mors’ discussion on the plants listed. The line drawings aren’t much for reference so you’ll need a better photo guide for that, but it’s the words that are important in this book. I like that this little guide just covers a few plants because that fits into my personal 80/20 wild edible plants rule which states: “FOCUS on the 20% of the wild edible plants you see 80% of the time. FORGET the rest!"
Wild Edibles by Sergei Boutenko
Sergei is an enthusiastic author and wild edible plant fanatic. I really enjoy his approach to wild edibles. His photos are some the best I’ve seen and his discussions are easy to understand and straight to the point. He covers 60 plants in this book.
The Trapper’s Bible by Dale Martin
This is an older title which discusses traps and snares exclusively. This is a great read for studying a variety of trap triggers and designs. I personally really enjoy the study of traps so this one is one of my personal favorites.
Harvesting Wild Meat by Stephen Coote
This New Zealand author has put together a really fun read about primitive trap designs. His personal insights are really helpful. I really enjoy leafing through this title and looking at the different trap designs.
Food Storage for Self-Sufficiency and Survival by Angela Paskett
Angela is a personal friend of mine and she practices what she preaches. I would consider this a definitive guide in learning and understanding best practices when it comes to long-term food storage. She covers everything from types of containers to methodology. If you’re looking to stockpile your survival pantry, this read is for you.
Backyard Foraging by Ellen Zachos
This is a great wild edible plant book covering 65 plants you didn’t know you could eat. There is certainly some redundancy with other titles mentioned, but this book is a good stand alone resource for eating your backyard!
The Hunter’s Guide to Butchering, Smoking, and Curing Wild Game and Fish by Philip Hasheider
This book delivers on the title. It teaches you exactly what it says it’s going to. The description and photos are all excellent and coincide with everything I’ve been taught and learned on my own over the years.
Build Your Own Underground Root Cellar by Phyllis Hobson
An underground root cellar has been on my project list for several years and this is the book I purchased to help get the job done. It’s a great little read. This title is part of a series of very informative ebooks called Storey Country Wisdom Bulletins. You may consider a search for this in Amazon, as there are many other titles that may pique your interest.
Recipes and Tips for Sustainable Living by Stacy Harris
Preparing wild foods can be tricky. Stacy flattens the learning curve for you with this book of recipes and tips. With this book, there is no reason your survival meals should be anything short of fantastic. The photos alone will make you want to grab that old 12-gauge and hit the woods.
Urban Foraging by David Craft
This title might be of interest to all of you city dwellers. I enjoyed the urban angle of searching for wild edibles in the city. There is literally food around every corner!
All New Square Foot Gardening by Mel Bartholomew
I love this author’s approach to gardening. He is all about growing more in less space and it just makes sense. His methodical approach to planting in a square-foot design is impressive to say the least. My personal experiments from the skills taught in this book have proven successful beyond measure and I highly recommend this style of growing for any gardening enthusiast.
First Aid
The need for first aid supplies and services go through the roof during disaster and survival scenarios. These are also the first services to become overwhelmed and unavailable. The ability to provide for yourself and loved ones with basic first aid is critical. These books will help.
Where There Is No Doctor by David Werner
Don’t expect to read this in one sitting – it’s LONG! It covers medical advice for everything from toothaches to survival childbirth. I would consider this manual an indispensable guide in any survival library. The premise of the book is that medical knowledge should not be a guarded secret by a select few, but should be freely shared by everyone, and that ordinary people who are provided with clear, simple information can prevent and treat most common health problems in their own homes.
Outward Bound Wilderness First-Aid Handbook by Jeffrey Isaac
I like the wilderness-specific angle of this title. If it can happen in the outdoors then it’s probably covered in this book. From altitude illness to constipation, this is a no-nonsense guide to address first aid issues in the wilderness. Outward Bound is a very reputable organization and this handbook has become a classic resource for adventurers all over the world.
The Survival Medicine Handbook by Joseph and Amy Alton
I especially like this title because it’s written by preparedness-minded people for preparedness-minded people. They write from the perspective of asking, “What if access to modern medical facilities no longer exists?" They do not end each scenario or sentence with, “Go to the hospital." I like that. This is an A-Z medical guide for true survival scenarios written in plain English.
Documents
One cool thing about the kindle (at least the newer models) is that you can upload PDFs into an accessible documents area for easy reference. The sky is the limit when it comes to this option. From maps and GPS coordinates to addresses and telephone numbers, this puts literally any kind of information that you wish at your fingertips in the middle of a bug out scenario. I’ve loaded tons of medical documents such as antibiotic doses and measurements to this folder. I also include chemical water purification ratios and PDF manuals for some of my electronics, such as my handheld HAM radio.
This feature, which some e-readers lack, gives you the option of loading personal documents such as insurance paperwork, pet shot records, marriage licenses, bank information, and the like for easy reference. I prefer to keep my personal documents on a secure, password-protected thumb drive, but the Kindle is a great option for less sensitive information.
One other category worth mentioning within this heading is games. I know this sounds crazy initially, but a few games can be a huge asset when bugging out with young children. Anything to distract their minds from the craziness is a good thing. An idle mind leads down troubled paths. Many simple games can be downloaded free of charge.
Protection and Power
Protecting and powering your Bug Out Kindle are two absolute requirements. If both of these options were not possible, a Kindle would not be included in my Bug Out Bag. Options abound when it comes to both.
Military-grade cases and covers are readily available on-line that are shock-resistant and waterproof – two absolute bug out necessities. A durable waterproof sleeve or map case will suffice at a bare minimum.
Solar power and manual crank USB chargers are readily available as well. Most hand crank emergency radios now have a USB charger built in, which will power the Kindle. Stand alone Pocket Sockets are also available. I prefer the hand crank power options for recharging, but I have several friends who swear by solar. Ultimately, it’s a personal choice.
Conclusion
Packing a sizable survival library along with hand-picked PDFs which catalog a plethora of facts and references in your Bug Out Bag just makes survival sense. Affordable portable power and protective cases make a Bug Out Kindle a very feasible and practical survival tool that can handle the worst of scenarios. The built-in camera and video features allow the capture of important information for future reference as well.
Albert Einstein once said, “Information is not knowledge." This is true. However, access to information about a subject which you’re not knowledgeable can be a huge survival advantage. In survival, I’ll take every competitive advantage I can get, including a Bug Out Kindle.
Remember, it’s not IF but WHEN,
Creek
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Creek Stewart is a Senior Instructor at the Willow Haven Outdoor School for Survival, Preparedness & Bushcraft. Creek’s passion is teaching, sharing, and preserving outdoor living and survival skills. Creek is also the author of the book Build the Perfect Bug Out Bag: Your 72-Hour Disaster Survival Kit. For more information, visit Willow Haven Outdoor.
Posted on June 18th, 2014
Fix Absolutely Anything, Anywhere With A Keychain Toolkit
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For less than $50, I've built a keychain toolkit that's fixed cars, motorcycles and once kept me out of jail. It's even legal on airplanes. Here's how you can build yours.
All this might be legal on airplanes, but it will raise the TSA's eyebrows. As I pass through security, I put it in the tray next to my laptop so it's visible, then try and tell an agent about it before it goes through the X-ray machine, just to manage their reaction.
As I've explained to the TSA countless times, I carry all this wherever I go because I like to be prepared. Maybe because I'm an Eagle Scout or maybe because I used to be a handyman, but a big part of my own sense of identity is fixing my own problems. And those of others. If my computer breaks or I need to rewire something in a hotel room or fix a flat tire or breakdown a door or deal with a real emergency, I've got it handled, all with what's in my pocket. And, if I do need to call for help, that's in there too.
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Multitool: Leatherman Style PS — $20
This is actually my second Style PS, the first was just confiscated by airport security in Madrid, who were also convinced my dog whistle was some sort of weapon. But, I'd carried that old one on countless flights over the last two years, both domestic and abroad, without any other issues.
This thing is so handy, that I've stopped carrying or using larger multitools. It's typically the first tool I grab for small home repairs and it's helped me adjust the suspension on motorcycles, fix my Macbook, pull splinters, remove split fingernails and plug car tires.
With pliers, wire cutters, scissors, a small flathead driver (perfect for eye glasses!), tweezers and a carabiner/bottle opener, all wrapped up in a package made from strong, reasonable quality materials, this thing's just perfect and is the most-used item here.
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Flashlight: ITP A3 EOS — $19
LED flashlights are amazing. At 90 Lumens, this little guy is often my go-to while camping and I was using it just the other day to spotlight rats in my attic, before killing them. It'll give you more than two days of light on its lowest setting, which is perfect for reading maps at night or finding the keyhole when you come home late at night.
There's a lot of keychain flashlights out there and this one is by no means the best. Things to consider are:
Battery type — standard AAA and AA batteries are much easier to come by and far cheaper than their exotic CR123 and CR2 counterparts.
Switch mechanism — twisty ones like this are more compact and less prone to accidental activation than push buttons
Waterproofness — look for lights made to the IPX8 standard, which means they'll work while submerged
Keychain attachment — this has a solid ring welded to the light body, some lights use flimsy clips held on with friction
The situations in which a flashlight would just be nice to have or an absolute lifesaver are endless. Take the subway to work? Sure would be dark down there if the power went out.
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Pry Bar: Gerber Shard— $6.70
The screwdriver blades were too dull to actually fit into screws as stock, so I put them on a grinding wheel until they resembled an actual tool. Consider that modification essential.
This is the tool that kept me out of jail. While partying in the paddock during a race weekend, some friends and I got a little out of control and caused some damage to the facilities. The cops were called, but we were able to break into a supply closet, find and open a can of paint and repair much of it before they arrived. The cops saw nothing but some idiot racers having a good time and just ordered us to sleep it off. Phew.
Day to day, this opens my beers, saves my knife from prying duties and is killer to have with you in an office, where it can jimmy open stuck drawers.
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Duct Tape — Free
Tie a loop on one end of a piece of paracord to go around your keychain, then tightly roll duct tape around it. I've got about 18 inches of tape stored here, in a package no bigger than a tube of lip balm.
Unlike cordage or a cutting edge or a blunt object or whatever, duct tape isn't something you'll be able to replicate with a found object. It's killer for patching torn clothes, tents or other materials, repairing shoes, performing first aid (need pressure and a bandage held on?) or even fixing problem wires in your bike or car. Feel a blister coming on? Cut a small piece of duct tape to shape, stick it to your foot and voila, the tape now gets rubbed instead of your skin.
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Safety Pin — Free
I just used this two days ago to pop the SIM card out of my iPhone. But really, I carry it to fix wardrobe malfunctions. It'll replace a button or connect a strap or hold a bandage on someone.
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Clip or Carabiner — Free
This is a fancy one a friend gave me, but any clip will do. They're nice to have when you're using your keychain tools; I carry mine in my pocket 99 percent of the time, but will clip them to a belt loop if I need easy access, such as while up a ladder or in a crawl space. A good idea for connecting your car or motorcycle key too, you don't want all this hanging from the ignition. You can also use a clip to connect other things besides your keychain. I used mine to clip a stray dog to Wiley once, until we found its owner.
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Dog Whistle — $1
I use mine to call Wiley, but whistles are great if you ever need to grab people's attention. That might be if you need help or want to warn others of danger. This thing's LOUD; three sharp bursts is the international call for help.
What's on your keychain?
IndefinitelyWild is a new publication about adventure travel in the outdoors, the vehicles and gear that get us there and the people we meet along the way. Follow us on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.
Posted on June 15th, 2014
It's June 7 and the Great Lakes Are Finally Ice-Free
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For the first time since the end of last November, there is finally no ice left on the Great Lakes. Goodbye and good riddance to the winter that just wouldn't die. Now that there's no more ice, what does this mean for weather patterns in the northern United States?
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The year's lake ice was one for the record books. This was the latest complete melt on the Great Lakes since NOAA started keeping records back in the 1970s. The season also saw the second-highest amount of ice ever recorded, with just over 92% covering the five bodies of water at the beginning of March, coming close to the all-time record 94% coverage seen in 1979. This year also broke the record for the most ice seen so late in the season, with over one-third of the lakes still covered in ice on April 23.
The lack or presence of ice can have a huge impact on the weather, but it depends on the season.
The most obvious effect that lake ice has on the weather is lake-effect snow, which occurs when cold air moves over the warmer waters. The warmer lake water heats up air at the surface through conduction, and the warmer air begins to rapidly rise through the much colder air above.
The result is convection, which sets up as heavy snow bands that move over land. When the lakes freeze over, lake-effect snow stops. This is why areas on the eastern shore of Lake Ontario some of the highest annual snowfall totals in the country; Lake Ontario hardly ever freezes over during the winter.
The brutal winter the eastern half of North America experienced this year took a heavy toll on the… Read moreRead on
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On the summer side of things, the lakes don't have too much of an impact on the weather.
During the warm months, the lakes can have a cooling effect on areas immediately along the coast depending on the direction of the winds.
On rare occasions, the water can have an effect on storm systems. This was most notable in 1996, when a low pressure system sat over Lake Huron and started to take on characteristics of a subtropical cyclone, lending it the nickname "Hurricane Huron."
One of the most spectacular sights over the Great Lakes are waterspouts that tend to form during the summer and fall months. Waterspouts form when a column of rising air stretches out and begins to rotate; the low pressure inside the rotating column of air condenses the water vapor, leading to the visible condensation funnel.
Waterspouts are different from tornadoes in that tornadoes form from processes within a thunderstorm, whereas waterspouts are usually independent entities. Waterspouts can easily form in thunderstorms, though, due to the ample amount of rising air they require to survive.
Provided we don't have any freaky weather over the next couple of month, the Great Lakes should remain ice-free until sometime around Thanksgiving.
[Images via AP / GLERL / NWS]
Posted on June 7th, 2014
Chainsaws 101: How to Use a Chainsaw Safely
Editor’s note: This is a guest post from Uncle Buzz Surwilo.
So you had a tree service come out to the house and give you an estimate to take down that pine tree that’s shading your wife’s petunias, and the figure that they quoted made you stagger. “Heck," you thought, “for that much money I can buy a chainsaw and cut that pine down myself. And cut up the wood and sell it to Joe down the street to burn in his wood stove, and actually make money. How hard could it be?"
Hang on there, Paul Bunyan. There’s a good deal about chainsaws you should know before laying waste to the backyard woods.
All tools have some potential to inflict harm. Hammers can mash thumbs and slipped wrenches can inflict skinned knuckles, but chainsaws bring the potential for injury to a whole new level. We are talking about razor sharp (more on that later) metal teeth moving at blinding speed, often just inches from the saw operator’s nice soft flesh. Saws spit out small pieces of wood at high velocity. Branches can be under tremendous tension, and may spring when cut like a rifle shot. An improperly felled tree can, at best, flatten that bed of petunias; at worst, flatten you.
There is skill involved in deftly and safely operating a chainsaw, and a learning curve to become proficient. In fact, I don’t think any experienced saw operators would say that the learning curve ever plateaus. When using a chainsaw, every situation is different, and grasping each of these unique situations builds onto your skill level, as would taking a practical chainsaw operator’s course.
Today we’ll cover the basics of how to operate a chainsaw safely. Tomorrow, because proper maintenance is a key to optimum, injury-free use, we’ll cover how to keep your saw in tip-top condition.
Keep in mind that volumes have been written on chainsaw use, so we’re just scratching the surface here. Plus, it’s somewhat analogous to learning to drive: the written motor vehicle operator’s manual is valuable and necessary, but having hands-on training and the explanations of the driving instructor (or yelling parent) in the passenger seat is far superior. The same holds true for using a chainsaw. This column may be informative, but the way to learn is by doing, preferably with an experienced sawyer showing you the ropes.
With that said, let’s talk about how to use a chainsaw without buzzing off your leg.
Chainsaw Safety Basics
Personal protective equipment. Let’s start with the basics: your personal protective equipment or PPE. Any time that you operate a chainsaw you really need to wear eye protection, ear protection, good sturdy boots, long pants, a long sleeve shirt, gloves, and chainsaw chaps. Especially when felling — putting an upright tree on the ground — a hard hat is a great idea. Yeah, it seems like overkill if you are just going to cut up a few limbs that came down in last night’s high winds, and you may hear snickers from the neighbors, but full PPE is a good habit to get into, as nonchalance can be tragic.
I like to use a chainsaw helmet with an attached flip-up, mesh face shield and flip-up ear muffs. I find it very comfortable on my noggin and like being able to just flip the ear muffs up, rather than deal with the little foam hearing protectors that I always lose, never stay in, and don’t work for beans.
Chainsaw chaps are worth their weight in gold. How they work is so: There are multiple layers of Kevlar (yup, the same stuff as bulletproof vests) beneath the nylon outer shell. If the saw chain hits and penetrates the shell, the Kevlar first resists the cutting action, but then the fibers are pulled into the saw’s sprocket, stopping the spinning chain in just a few seconds. Not to be too graphic, but realize how fast a chainsaw can go through wood, then imagine what it could do to a person’s unprotected leg. Like I said, chaps are worth their weight in gold.
Creating a safe environment. Before you begin any cutting, check the environmental safety of the specific situation. Particularly with felling, look up, look down, look around. Is there an escape route for you to take for when the tree falls? Is there a clear path for the tree to fall? If it goes in an unintended direction, what would be the consequence — the doghouse gets it, or the power line? Is the tree weakened by bugs or disease? Is the wind blowing from the direction that you want the tree to fall? In the end, ask yourself if you are comfortable with the sawing task at hand, and don’t be afraid to say “no." In fact, if you are seriously concerned about the risk, you probably should bite the bullet and call the tree service guy back.
Using the Chainsaw
Chainsaw operations are basically divided into three tasks: limbing, bucking, and felling. Limbing is the removal of branches from a downed tree. Bucking is cutting the trunk of the downed tree to length. And felling is cutting an upright tree in a controlled manner so that it falls where expected, and hopefully that’s in a good place! Remember the lingo for conversations around the office water cooler, and you’ll impress your co-workers: Unless you are like a young George Washington with your trusty ax, a tree is never “chopped down," but “felled," just as firewood is not chopped, but split. Save chopping for how to prepare onions for your home fries.
For specifics on how to limb, buck, and fell, check out this primer.
Below are safe usage guidelines and techniques to employ regardless of which job you’re tackling:
Before you begin. We’ll discuss maintenance in some detail tomorrow, but for now, before you start the saw, make sure everything is in working order with a quick check of the controls, handles, bar, and chain sharpness and tension. It may seem obvious, but fill both the gas and bar oil reservoirs each time that you use the saw, even if you are only going to cut for a few minutes. It is a good habit to get into to ensure that the saw will never run out of lubricating oil while it’s being used. Saws are designed to run out of a full tank of fuel before running out of a full tank of bar oil. Why? Running out of fuel is no big deal, just fill the tank again and the saw is good to go. But running out of bar oil causes friction and heat enough to seriously damage the saw.
Fill the saw with fuel and oil while the saw is on the ground, not on the ungrounded tailgate of a truck. And be sure that the saw is not hot when fueling. Of course, don’t smoke while fueling…well, just don’t smoke, period.
Starting the saw. There are two methods to safely start a chain saw: on the ground and, yes, between your legs. For both, first make sure that the chain brake is engaged (push the handle forward), that the choke is closed (“on"), and that the start switch is on. My saw has a little primer button that I need to press a few times, but not all saws do.
For ground starting, place the saw on the ground, grip the handlebar with your left hand, place your right toe in the handle where the throttle trigger is, and pull the starter rope. After a couple of pulls, the saw should pop but not start. Disengage the choke, and pull the starter rope again. The saw should start right up.
To start the saw between your legs, place the rear of the saw against your right leg, tilting it towards the right, and sort of squeeze the saw with your left leg. Follow the starting procedure above.
Vroom! The saw started! Tap the throttle trigger to set the saw to an idle, and it should be purring like a kitten.
Handling the saw. Some common sense rules apply to how to handle a chainsaw, regardless of what you’re using it for. Maintain good footing, watch for tripping hazards, and keep a good balance by not overreaching with the saw running or getting into some weird body contortion. Keep your left hand firmly around the front handle, including the thumb. (My saw instructor reminded us that we “were operating a saw, not driving a car," as you tend to rest your thumb on the handle, rather than wrapping it around.)
Dealing with kickback & pinching. If you dimly remember physics class, you may recall that for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. Saw kickback is a demonstration of that principle (Or is it a law? Theory? Hypothesis? I forget.), and occurs when the top corner of the bar tip hits some unforgiving object or is pinched. When that happens, the energy of the saw forces the bar up and towards the operator with terrific speed and power — faster than the user can react. The first line of defense against kickback is never to engage the saw with the upper corner of the bar — be aware of the position of the tip at all times. Otherwise, practice good operating techniques: a firm, two-handed grip on the saw; a balanced stance; a sharp, tensioned chain; and being alert to situations when the bar may be pinched by the wood that is being cut through.
“Pinching the bar" is a good segue into the directional pressures present in the limb, log, or standing tree that dictate how the saw operator will approach the cut. These pressures — tension or compression — are present to varying degrees in every limb, log, or tree. Tension is when the force present causes the wood fibers to be stretched apart, and the kerf — the groove in the wood made by the saw — will tend to widen as the cut deepens. Compression is the opposite: the pressure on the log or tree is pushing the fibers together which, in turn, will cause the kerf to narrow as the cut deepens, and if the operator is not alert, pinch the bar and violently stop the chain’s spinning. The best advice that I can give is to take a moment before cutting to size up the situation. Think, “This log is suspended between two high points of ground; where is the bind, and where should I cut?" Or, “This limb is really bent by the adjacent tree and under great tension. If I cut it, will it spring back towards me?" Often an operator can detect a slight opening or closing of the kerf as the cut deepens. The kerf opening means full speed ahead, a kerf beginning to close means pull the saw out and cut from the other side, if possible.
Tomorrow we will turn to the subject of maintenance.
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Buzz Surwilo has been cutting his own firewood for years, is a Wildland Firefighter Type 2 (FFT2), recently completed training for Sawyer B certification, and still has all his body parts intact.
Photographs by Deborah Johnson-Surwilo
Posted on May 29th, 2014
Slash Your Energy Bill with Smart Landscaping
With temperatures rising in many parts of the world—air conditioning season!—it's good to know some cheap tricks for lowering energy costs. Energy.gov offers this infographic with helpful landscaping tips that can make a surprisingly big difference on your budget.P
Planting a shade tree on your property, for example, can help insulate your home both in the summer and winter and cut your utility bill by as much as 25 percent. No room for a tree? Even groundcover can cool the air before it gets to your home, and you can conserve water by letting your grass grow a little taller than normal.P
Here's the full energy saver graphic:P
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Energy Saver 1010 Infographic: Landscaping | Energy.gov via CleanTechnicaP
Posted on May 28th, 2014