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Basic Carpenter's Tools for the Beginner - A Guide

by DarkAxel » Wed Sep 25, 2013 1:00 am

So, you've finally gotten tired of paying contractors to build you stuff. Or maybe you are a beginning hobbyist. Regardless, your new-found interest in carpentry is going to require tools. You can't drive nails with your fists, and improvising tools is a recipe for frustration and wasted time. So I thought I'd share some of my knowledge and lay out a basic set of tools that a resourceful individual can use to do 99% of the jobs they undertake. Keep in mind that this is a bare-bones list an not a comprehensive list of the stuff I've got stored in my toolboxes. Alrighty then. Here we go.

1.)No self-respecting man can call himself a carpenter without having a hammer. A hammer is the most basic tool an aspiring carpenter can own. If you don't have one of those, you might as well call yourself a swami. Now a lot of people will insist that you need several different hammers, but I don't cotton to that train of thought. All you need is a decent claw hammer in the 14oz to 18oz range. Sure, for really delicate work you might want a smaller, lighter hammer, but if you practice enough there isn't a single nail or brad you can't use. I use a Stanley Fat Max 16oz framing hammer, and the 18 bucks I paid for it is pennies compared to the money I've made with it. the Stanley has it's flaws, but as long as the striking surface and the claws are quality, your hammer will see you through without breaking at a bad moment.

Ball-peen hammers and hatchet hammers aren't made for carpentry, and shouldn't be relied on for anything other than their intended purpose.

2.)A decent flatbar (AKA prybar). A good prybar and a hammer will serve you for most of the prying and demo you will run across. Get one with a 90 degree angle on one end and an 30 degree angle on the other, and don't cheap out with bargain purchases. Those cheap flatbars aren't tempered properly and will bend quite easily at the worst possible moment. Get one that is between 10" and 14". You'll be absolutely floored by what you can accomplish with them.

one thing I've noticed when untrained folk try to use prybars and hammers to pull apart wood or pull nails is that they try to yank the tool backward. Instead, try pushing or pulling them at a 90 degree angle. If you got good tool you will get much more leverage. Sure, you'll scar up the wood a bit, but if you hammer the wood back in that damage will be sandwiched between the boards instead of being visible (unless you fucked up the cut or nailed the board in wrong. And if you find yourself needing more leverage, you can slip a pipe over the non-working end.

3.)A decent chisel. with a solid chisel, you can do spot-cutting to fit, pull small staples, and drive nails in tight spots. You can also use them to cut nails, brads, and other fasteners when needed. Just make sure that the striking surface is durable (avoid bakelite, polymer, or plastic striking surfaces in favor of hardened steel) or the handle will crumble. Keep them sharpened, and make sure you only sharpen the grind side.

When using a chisel, make sure you put the grind-side down if you are cutting in a certain direction. If not, you'll cut too deep and weaken the lumber. the grind provides directs the hammering force int the desired direction without cutting too deep into your workpiece.

4.)A well-made tape-measure (hereafter referred to as a tape-line. What can I say, that's how I learned it). Without a tape-line, you can't make precise measurements for cutting, digging, or fastening. I recommend a tape-line with a belt-clip that is at least 16' to 30', is able to "stand off" (that's the distance you can extend the line without it collapsing) of at least 8', has a hooked end, and is graduated in segments of 1/16th to 1/32 of an inch. Tape-lines are crucial for estimates and for measuring cuts for the overall length of lumber.

You can also use tape-lines to find plum (if you hold it right), square (measurements from corner to corner should be equal), and to act as a strait-edge when ripping lumber (Hold the tape-line at the desired width at the edge of the piece, put a pencil at the hook end, and slide the whole mess down the board). If you have a steady hand, you can also use a tape-line to mark curves (run a screw into the center of your curve, hook the end on the screw, and hold the pencil at the desired measurement, then swing your end around the center. the screw will hold the tape-line end in place. Get good enough at this and you can mark out really complex pieces).

5.)A pencil. You don't need a carpenter's pencil (though I recommend one due to their standardized dimensions and overall usefulness), you just need one that can make visible marks for cuts and for writing down measurements. A pencil is something a carpenter should have on him at all times during a job, along with his hammer and a few loose nails.

6.)A utility or carpenter's knife. These allow you to sharpen your pencil, shave wood, smooth out chisel cuts, and cut other things that are cut-able when you run across them on the job (and you will).

7.)Either a framing square or a speed (triangle-type) square these allow you not only to mark square cuts, but also allow you to mark the angled cuts that you might need to make. Don't get cheap. For speed squares, I prefer Swanson or DeWalt made of aluminum(they are thicker and won't break as easily). Overall, though, I prefer a framing square if you can get away from it. A framing square has a lot of info on it. Everything from tables to figure out rise to how many nails are in a pound are stamped on a good framing square. they are also sized to match common stud spacing. I have an ulterior motive for recommending speed squares, though. Reading one is a dying art, one that I hope can be revived.

8.)A level sized to fit your projects. Obviously, the longer the level the more accurate the reading, but I recommend a 4' level for general construction. You can use them in combination with a tape-line to find the rise of existing construction, and you can use them to find plum for new construction (no need for a plumb-bob). Just make sure you check them (they should read identically if you flip them over no matter what you are trying to find level or plum for), and they make great straight-edges for marking plumb or level on long projects.

9.)A tool belt. Tool belts allow you to keep your crucial tools on hand at any time along with fasteners, and free up your hands for climbing if needed. Get a good one that is adjustable and durable.

10.)A saw. I recommend a circular saw (Skill saw) made by DeWalt, Porter-Cable, or Milwaukee. They may cost more, but this is certainly a case of buy-once-cry-once, because you really can't wear those fuckers out. If you are more of a power-free kind of guy, your best bet is to buy a hand-saw that isn't made of stainless or otherwise cheap steel, although making square cuts take more skill (pun intended) with a hand saw.

11.)A set of screwdrivers or a bit driver with multiple bits (hand powered or electric) in common Phillips, slotted, and socket sizes (1/4" and 3/8' sizes). Once again, don't cheap out, and if you go the bit route, buy in bulk. You WILL lose some of them (most likely the ones you use most frequently).

12.)A drill. This can be electric or brace-and-bit. Make sure you get a bit set that includes common sizes. Once again, buy in bulk, because you WILL break the smaller ones.

13.)A socket wrench and set in standard or metric (depending on your AO). Lag and carrier bolts use hex-heads and bolts, and none of the other options (adjustable wrench, channel locks, vise grips, etc) should be used unless you rounded off the head.

14.)Quoted from below because I overlooked the chalk-line, aka chalk-box.

JustsayMo wrote:Chalkline: Used for wall layout on the floor deck, ripping/crosscutting plywood, cutting a rafter ends (I run them wild and cut the tails after the rafter is installed), snapping the layout line for the first course of sheathing/roofing/etc so I can work from above; marking studs under sheathing for quicker nailing, long straight line, plumb bob..... the list goes on and on.

A great timesaver and almost a requirement when running lath for metal roofing.

15.)String-line: A spool of string-line will make tasks like setting poles for pole barns, post-and-beam foundations, decks, etc much easier.

If you have the above tools, you can handle the vast majority of carpentry If I've neglected anything, other experienced carpenters are free to chime in, and questions are, as always, welcome.

DA.

Edits: a mistake I spotted.

Last edited by DarkAxel on Mon Sep 30, 2013 10:19 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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Re: Basic Carpenter's Tools for the Beginner - A Guide

by Manimal2878 » Wed Sep 25, 2013 9:15 am

Good list.

The only tool that I would add, and way more just a convenience thing than a necessity is a sawzall/reciprocating saw type tool. For doing any kind of tear down paired with a pry bar you are set. You can get various types of blades, metal, wood, combo, pruning, etc. I use mine to cut 4x4s that were too big for a skill saw to cut easily.

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Re: Basic Carpenter's Tools for the Beginner - A Guide

by KJ4VOV » Wed Sep 25, 2013 2:17 pm

And I'd add that both a circular saw and a hand saw are needed, because you can't make square notches with a circular saw. And speaking of the circular saw (what you call a Skill saw - which should be called a Skil saw (brand name) but which became a generic name like Band-Aid or Aspirin because those worm drive Skil's are the best saws ever made) don't forget an assortment of good quality blades in various pitches. The best saw it the world is gonna work like crap if you handicap it with a shit $3.99 blade from Harbor Freight.

I'd also add a nail set (actually a set of three in different sizes) for countersinking, a 12" steel rule for precise measurements that a tape won't do, a good quality whetstone to keep that chisel sharp and to touch it up with as you work with it, and a good quality pair of fingerless gloves for a better grip and less wear & tear on your hands.

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Re: Basic Carpenter's Tools for the Beginner - A Guide

by DarkAxel » Wed Sep 25, 2013 4:15 pm

KJ4VOV wrote:And I'd add that both a circular saw and a hand saw are needed, because you can't make square notches with a circular saw. And speaking of the circular saw (what you call a Skill saw - which should be called a Skil saw (brand name) but which became a generic name like Band-Aid or Aspirin because those worm drive Skil's are the best saws ever made) don't forget an assortment of good quality blades in various pitches. The best saw it the world is gonna work like crap if you handicap it with a shit $3.99 blade from Harbor Freight.

I'd also add a nail set (actually a set of three in different sizes) for countersinking, a 12" steel rule for precise measurements that a tape won't do, a good quality whetstone to keep that chisel sharp and to touch it up with as you work with it, and a good quality pair of fingerless gloves for a better grip and less wear & tear on your hands.

If you are cutting 90 degree notches, like for a bird's mouth on rafters, you can finish off what the saw didn't cut with the chisel and utility knife. If you are taking out a one or two inch square chunk out of a rafter or are notching a pole so a 2x4 will fit flush, you can use a circular saw, hammer and chisel for that, too. It takes a little skill and practice, but it can be done.

I recall your family has been in contracting for quite some time, KJ, so there's no disrespect intended, but I learned from a very talented carpenter, and there's not much you can't cut with a circular saw. But yes, for beginners, a hand saw is definitely a good idea.

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Re: Basic Carpenter's Tools for the Beginner - A Guide

by KJ4VOV » Wed Sep 25, 2013 6:03 pm

DarkAxel wrote:If you are cutting 90 degree notches, like for a bird's mouth on rafters, you can finish off what the saw didn't cut with the chisel and utility knife. If you are taking out a one or two inch square chunk out of a rafter or are notching a pole so a 2x4 will fit flush, you can use a circular saw, hammer and chisel for that, too. It takes a little skill and practice, but it can be done.

I recall your family has been in contracting for quite some time, KJ, so there's no disrespect intended, but I learned from a very talented carpenter, and there's not much you can't cut with a circular saw. But yes, for beginners, a hand saw is definitely a good idea.

I left out the word "easily". Yes, you can do it with a chisel or knife, if you have the skill and the patience to do it. But for a beginner on rough cut framing and such? Then I think a short saw is the best tool for them. Hand saws are also useful for things like trimming door moldings to slip flooring under (without having to rip the whole casing off) or working in places just a little further away than the power cord reaches.

And no disrespect felt my friend.

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Re: Basic Carpenter's Tools for the Beginner - A Guide

by gundogs » Thu Sep 26, 2013 8:28 am

A "framing" hammer has an extra long handle and typically have a 20-24oz head. I find them awkward for everyday use

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Re: Basic Carpenter's Tools for the Beginner - A Guide

by procyon » Thu Sep 26, 2013 9:37 am

KJ4VOV wrote:hand saw needed

I'd second that.
It isn't going to set you back tons of cash to get a decent one. And from trying to teach my boys (and one of the girls), I have seen several boards split out by a little to 'eager' of a hand using the chisels trying to square corners. If you just want a basic kit for someone who isn't doing this a lot (because if they do, they will end up collecting a lot more tools...), the hand saw will help a lot.

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Re: Basic Carpenter's Tools for the Beginner - A Guide

by DarkAxel » Thu Sep 26, 2013 9:36 pm

gundogs wrote:A "framing" hammer has an extra long handle and typically have a 20-24oz head. I find them awkward for everyday use

You are technically right there, and I'll make note of it in the OP.

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Re: Basic Carpenter's Tools for the Beginner - A Guide

by KJ4VOV » Thu Sep 26, 2013 11:27 pm

DarkAxel wrote:1.)No self-respecting man can call himself a carpenter without having a hammer. A hammer is the most basic tool an aspiring carpenter can own. If you don't have one of those, you might as well call yourself a swami. Now a lot of people will insist that you need several different hammers, but I don't cotton to that train of thought. All you need is a decent claw hammer in the 14oz to 18oz range. Sure, for really delicate work you might want a smaller, lighter hammer, but if you practice enough there isn't a single nail or brad you can't use. I use a Stanley Fat Max 16oz framing hammer, and the 18 bucks I paid for it is pennies compared to the money I've made with it. the Stanley has it's flaws, but as long as the striking surface and the claws are quality, your hammer will see you through without breaking at a bad moment.

You're absolutely right on getting your money's worth from even a cheap hammer, but the really good, high-end hammers are sooo nice to use.

I have both a $5.00 Home Depot "Workforce" brand 22oz. framer and a $350 titanium Stiletto framer with multiple replacement faces. The Stiletto is sweeeet, and I could swing it all day without my arm falling off, but I've done just as much work, and made just as much money (if not more) with the $5.00 one, and both are a bit beat up and showing their age, but both are still working.

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Re: Basic Carpenter's Tools for the Beginner - A Guide

by aus.templar » Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:02 am

On this stream of thought, I'm currently self-teaching myself woodworking. I've made a simple hinged box with a latch out of pine and plywood, what are some other beginner projects that will challenge me, but not too much

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Re: Basic Carpenter's Tools for the Beginner - A Guide

by Caenus » Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:35 am

aus.templar wrote:On this stream of thought, I'm currently self-teaching myself woodworking. I've made a simple hinged box with a latch out of pine and plywood, what are some other beginner projects that will challenge me, but not too much

Jewelry box for any lady friends you may have. Time to buy a Dremel!!!

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Re: Basic Carpenter's Tools for the Beginner - A Guide

by KJ4VOV » Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:38 am

aus.templar wrote:On this stream of thought, I'm currently self-teaching myself woodworking. I've made a simple hinged box with a latch out of pine and plywood, what are some other beginner projects that will challenge me, but not too much

A simple bookcase would be a good "next project" perhaps. Nothing fancy, pine and plywood like the box (really it's a box without a lid and a couple of dividers, stood on end). If you don't have access to a router to make the slots for the shelves to slide in you can cheat a little and make the sides out of two thicknesses of thinner wood, with the "inner" layer cut into sections and spaced to allow the shelves to go in. If you want to get fancy, and the shelves will be non-removable, you can "face frame" the front to hide the joints. For added shelf strength add a two layer back (similar to the sides) that the back of the shelves can fit into for support. This is a pretty simple kind of project, with no fancy cuts to make, but plenty of accurate measuring and cutting to do. The accuracy of your cuts will "make or break" this project, so it's a good one to develop that skill on. (Pro Tips: don't forget to factor in the width of the saw cut when doing your calculations, and a thin but even layer of wood glue, clamped until dry, will give better results than blobs or squiggles haphazardly applied.)

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Re: Basic Carpenter's Tools for the Beginner - A Guide

by pat » Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:54 am

You might want to add a pair of plyers, needle nose if your only getting one.

Of the few tools I own and it's the one that gets the most use around the appartment.

.

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Re: Basic Carpenter's Tools for the Beginner - A Guide

by KJ4VOV » Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:56 am

pat wrote:You might want to add a pair of plyers, needle nose if your only getting one.

Of the few tools I own and it's the one that gets the most use around the appartment.

.

Not exactly a carpenter's tool though.

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Re: Basic Carpenter's Tools for the Beginner - A Guide

by allofthemonkeys » Fri Sep 27, 2013 6:43 pm

Also, you need to know the difference between construction carpentry, finish carpentry, and fine woodwork carpentry. People think that working with wood in any form is carpentry, and it is, but there is defiantly a difference in the three and you need to see things in each field with a different mindset. Many of the tools and techniques overlap though so don't worry about that.

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Re: Basic Carpenter's Tools for the Beginner - A Guide

by DarkAxel » Fri Sep 27, 2013 6:51 pm

aus.templar wrote:On this stream of thought, I'm currently self-teaching myself woodworking. I've made a simple hinged box with a latch out of pine and plywood, what are some other beginner projects that will challenge me, but not too much

Like KJ said, a shelf or a bookcase can be a good beginner's project. Birdhouses are popular beginner projects, too. You could also try building simple end-tables or night-stands.

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Re: Basic Carpenter's Tools for the Beginner - A Guide

by DarkAxel » Fri Sep 27, 2013 7:11 pm

allofthemonkeys wrote:Also, you need to know the difference between construction carpentry, finish carpentry, and fine woodwork carpentry. People think that working with wood in any form is carpentry, and it is, but there is defiantly a difference in the three and you need to see things in each field with a different mindset. Many of the tools and techniques overlap though so don't worry about that.

This is true.

A structural carpenter specializes in things like framing walls or making trusses and joists. A finish carpenter is the guy that comes in after the drywall work is done and does more difficult work like molding and decorative work like fireplace mantles. Fine woodwork is stuff like cabinet making.

I like to tell my new hires that learning carpentry is a lot like learning to play guitar. The basics come relatively easy, but the more advanced you get the more difficult it becomes. The thing is that like guitar, a strong foundation in the basics and a little advanced training is enough to do accomplish a good chunk of your goals.

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Re: Basic Carpenter's Tools for the Beginner - A Guide

by grennels » Fri Sep 27, 2013 11:12 pm

Sabre saw. Or at least a jig saw.

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Re: Basic Carpenter's Tools for the Beginner - A Guide

by Confucius » Fri Sep 27, 2013 11:25 pm

Not an experienced carpenter by any means, but I'd suggest picking up a kreg jig. They're just too cool...

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Re: Basic Carpenter's Tools for the Beginner - A Guide

by JustsayMo » Mon Sep 30, 2013 8:09 am

A good basic list.

A few items that are in my nail bags that didn't make the list but I find them very handy are;

Chalkline: Used for wall layout on the floor deck, ripping/crosscutting plywood, cutting a rafter ends (I run them wild and cut the tails after the rafter is installed), snapping the layout line for the first course of sheathing/roofing/etc so I can work from above; marking studs under sheathing for quicker nailing, long straight line, plumb bob..... the list goes on and on.

Cold Chisel (small): Cutting heads off of nails to remove from framing brackets mainly. I don't use my wood chisel for anything but wood. It has a fine (shaving sharp) edge on it and I rarely have to beat on it with my hammer to carve a notch, mortise, clean up a rabbet/dado... "All tools are hammers, except chisels, and they're screwdrivers..." Old Carpenter's adage.

I think someone already mentioned a nail set. Besides setting nails works good for driving out hinge pins, pushing out shims, errant nails (shiners), marking pilot holes...

Pliers were probably mentioned too. I like a quality needle nose with side cutters.

If you are laying out and/or working as the cutter on a job a lumber crayon and a sharpie (for more precise permanent marks) is very nice.

Cats Paw: for pulling nails when a wonder/wrecking/pry bar won't do.

I also carry a small air chuck to blow sawdust off the roof deck.

Lots of stuff I don't carry in my bags that are necessary to do my job like A quality heavy duty extension cords, various clamps, a sledge hammer, broom, various nail guns, ladders, fasteners...

I build my own cabinets too.

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Re: Basic Carpenter's Tools for the Beginner - A Guide

by DarkAxel » Mon Sep 30, 2013 10:20 pm

Updated OP to include two more items, one suggested by justsaymo and another that his suggestion brought to mind.

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Christine Barry Posted on October 6th, 2013

TRAINING PHILOSOPHIES : JOSEPH TETI

TRAINING PHILOSOPHIES

Just for the record, I do not consider myself an “expert" on any subject. I dislike the word, always have, and always will. Where I come from, a person can never know enough about a given subject. You are constantly raising the bar and striving for new levels of performance and knowledge.
As Sun Tzu states in his masterpiece The Art of War…"be a student of war", and that is what I consider myself, a perpetual student. With that said, I offer some food for thought on the following subjects based on my personal experience and training.

Fitness Training

Let me first say I am not a fitness trainer, nor do I hold any certifications in nutrition, nor do I have a degree in Kinesiology. This is my opinion on fitness, nothing more. What I can tell you is that I have (since I was 18 years old) been actively working out in one discipline or another, consistently. Throughout my career in special operations, I have had the opportunity and honor to workout with some of the most physically fit human beings to walk this planet. These were truly gifted men who took physical fitness and mental toughness to unparalleled levels. I understand that there’s a lot of conflicting information floating around out on the internet in regards to fitness and working out.
From independent studies, to corporate “certified" fitness trainers to professional body builders, not to mention your favorite fitness magazines and blogs. Everyone seems to be telling you that not only is their way the best, but the only way, “eat this, don’t eat that". Oh, and don’t forget about all the “high speed low drag" fitness gadgets and equipment that is out there. To me, it seems that someone is always trying to invent a new mouse trap, but their trap is the same as the one that came out 10 years ago. Go figure. I’m here to tell you that nobody holds the secret to fitness.

I consider myself and those who know me to be in excellent physical condition. Lord knows I’m not 25 anymore, but that has not stopped me or slowed me down in keeping myself in shape. I have merely modified my workouts in order that I don’t injure myself or tear muscles at this point in my life. I have been asked on numerous occasions, either by friends or people I meet at the gym what my workout consists of, and what they should do as a work out routine. Most of the times I find myself saying “do what works for you". I know that’s a B.S. answer, but the sad truth is it does not matter what I do, it’s what your body needs, not mine. Those differences in many cases are vast.

Let me tell you what I know to be true and that has never changed over the years as it applies to maintaining my health and fitness. I know this will sound simple and no big surprise, however, few people seem to be able to get them all to work at the same time. That is tremendously important.

It takes sacrifice. Sacrifice as in, “I love my McDonalds, but junk food is not in my vocabulary now."
It takes discipline. Discipline as in, “It’s Monday and I had a hard day at work. I don’t feel like going to the gym. I will make it up tomorrow". That is definitely not a habit you want to form.
It takes effort. Effort as in when you are working out, you are pushing your body, not just going through the motions. If you’re not leaving the gym somewhat tired and beat up…you’re wrong.
It takes focus. Focus as in when you are working out, you are using good form no matter what exercise or machine you may be using at the time. Your head is at the gym concentrating on the task at hand. Leave your cell phone in the car!

If you can apply these 4 aspects of working out, this is what will get you the results you will be looking for. It has for me, and has never failed. Never.

I believe that the key to an individual’s fitness lies in the delicate balance between sacrifice and your desire to enjoy your life. While sacrifice (I believe) is the most important aspect to a solid fitness program, you shouldn’t have to give up what you enjoy the most. That I don’t think promotes mental fitness and happiness. I believe that hardcore fitness is about a lifestyle change. I don’t believe in “diets". I do believe in the saying, “You are what you eat." I don’t believe that every exercise you do should be to increase your core fitness, but at the same time I don’t believe that everyone needs to do dead lifts or clean and jerks. What I’m trying to say is that in a culture flooded with conflicting information on the subject of fitness, the only thing that’s absolutely certain is that if you eat better and work out harder, you’ll look better, feel better and most likely live longer. That is no B.S.

Shooting / Tactical Training

I could write pages and pages on my thoughts about shooting and tactical training, so I will keep this short. No matter who you talk to, when it comes to shooting or tactical training, you will get a mixed bag of opinions, depending on present company. My opinions and beliefs are based on years of training and some real world practical application. I have trained with some of the finest warriors our military and government have produced. Millions of training dollars have been spent on guys like me, and I have been trained by some of the best instructors around.
So here goes……

Understand your true capabilities and your shortfalls as it applies to gun handling. The person who over estimates their ability is far more of a liability than the person who under estimates their ability.
Your gun handling must be reflexive. Chances are when the bad guy decides to rob you at gun point, or kicks in your front door; you didn’t just walk off the range after a 2 hour warm up session. This means practice, practice, and more practice. Keep in mind that the saying, “practice makes perfect" is partially correct. Perfect practice makes perfect. Anything else is just creating bad and potentially fatal habits. You will have to perform cold and on demand.
Be intimately familiar with your surrounding at all times!!! Those of you that are familiar with Jeff Coopers Color Code of Awareness…believe it! You may be the person that can put every round in the X ring every time on the range week after week. You may even have a sub 1 second draw from the holster. But, if you don’t see the threat coming until it’s too late, the rest does not matter. You won’t even get a chance to go for your weapon.
Understand what the OODA Loop is and how to use it against your opponent. The OODA Loop cycle has been studied and examined for years. It is a physiological reality that can not be modified or changed, except for the time that it takes you to complete it. The faster you can cycle through it, the chances of surviving a high intensity armed confrontation are increased exponentially.
Never sacrifice accuracy for speed. Remember, you can’t miss fast enough to catch up.
If you own or carry a weapon for defense, train at realistic distances and on realistic targets. When was the last time you saw someone wearing a shirt that had a target painted on it? Then why train on a target that has bull’s-eyes on it? The only thing a bull’s-eye target is good for is qualification shooting, period. In a real situation, you will not have a target to shoot at, only an outline of a human silhouette. This produces a severe “training scar" as I like to call it. Statistically, gunfights happen in very close quarters, 7 yards and under. Keep that in mind when you’re training.
If you are using competition shooting or range work to practice for the “street", keep this in mind. Regard a “miss" as the end of the fight, and chances are you have an extra hole in your body where there isn’t supposed to be one, and not just a 10 point penalty. If I have said it once I have said it a thousand times, only luck will give you a second chance in a gunfight if you miss the first time. On the range, there are third, fourth, fifth and sixth place trophies.
In a gunfight, there’s first place and second place only. You don’t have to be a rocket scientist to figure out which one you don’t want to be.
Like in the gym, don’t over train. I would rather go to the range and shoot 100 rounds concentrating on the 7 Fundamentals than slinging 400 rounds down range with no rhyme or reason. I see this all the time.
Keep it real. If you have a CCW and carry a pistol for self-defense train with the gear and firearm you carry. Wear the clothing you normally wear while your carrying. Train like your going to fight and only that way.
Lastly, I wish I could take the credit for this quote as it is so true. There is no such thing as “advanced tactical skills", only perfect execution of the fundamentals under stress. For those of you that think there are tricks to shooting better, there are, and they are called the
7 Fundamentals of Shooting. The trick is being able to apply all 7 while under stress. It may sound easy to some of you, but I can tell you that it is what separates the “rock stars from the groupies".

Survival Training

Let’s face it. Nobody knows exactly how they are going to react in the event they are placed in a real “life or death" survival situation. You can train all you want, go to all the survival schools there are, but the reality is that much more than your “survival skills" is going to be needed for you to come out the other side alive. Much more.

Again, I could write pages about this subject and give my opinion about survival, but I can narrow it down to a few concise ideologies that I have formed from my own experiences and training.
For those of you with “thin skin", this might be a bit uncomfortable to read…but profoundly less uncomfortable if you are stuck in a real world survival situation. Keep an open mind and give what I am writing some thought.

BE PREPARED TO SELF RESCUE. Unless you are a high profile, wealthy type person like Warren Buffet or Bill Gates who will have an army out looking for them, get it in your mind right now that you will have to save your own bacon. Anything more than that in my opinion is asking for serious disappointment in a situation that is already very disappointing. IF by some reason you do get rescued by someone else…great! But don’t expect it. Remember, if you plan for the worse, hope for the best, you will never get caught in a situation that you can’t get out of.
NEVER QUIT. This is by far the single most important aspect in a survival situation. For those of you that have a lot of “quit" in them…I hate to tell you that your chances of making it out alive are slim to none. You will be in for the fight of your life…literally. If you are unable to persevere through the pain you might be experiencing, the hunger, the thirst, the misery of possibly being cold, wet and tired…you will die. It’s that simple. This comes to the
“warriors mind set" that you might have heard of. Folks…I’m here to tell you that no matter how many books you may have read on survival, courses you have been to, etc…if you don’t have a “never quit" attitude your as good as dead. That’s the reality of it. You’re best not to venture into the wilderness unless you have someone holding your hand.
There is a saying…. "The will to survive outweighs the skill to survive."
MAKE A PLAN… AND PLAN ON CHANGES. Have a plan, no matter what the situation. It will help you keep a clear head and focus on the task at hand. To be honest, plan on having to make several changes to your plan! It will be impossible to take into account all scenarios or COA’s (Courses of Action) at the time of your dilemma. But you need to come up with a simple, easily put into action plan. Remember the acronym K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Stupid. I have seen it time after time, highly complex and intricate plans always seem to unravel at the worst times.
KEEP TO THE CONSTANTS. In survival there are 4 constants in my book. Food, water, shelter, fire, and not necessarily in that order of importance. These are the 4 things that will keep you alive until you get out. How, where, when, and why is going to be on you.
EDUCATE / TRAIN YOURSELF. A never quit attitude is the most important aspect of survival in my book, however, knowledge is a close second. There are numerous schools and courses you can attend, some even at your local community college believe it or not that will greatly increase your chances of survival. Same goes with reading books. There are many books that have been written on survival. Read as many as you can is my advice. If you can get one or two ideas or techniques out of each, you’re on the right track. Once you do read one, get out there and get dirty and try out you newly acquired skills. Don’t wait until the crap hits the fan to find out you are not able to start a fire or make a snare. Could cost you your life. One other skill that is (in my opinion) vitally important to survival is your ability to land navigate. This is a skill that is a must in special operations, and used to assess and select individuals for training. Again, ease fix, tons if information on line about the subject.
KEEP IN SHAPE. Here we go again with the fitness thing. The fact of the matter is this: If you are out of shape, and can’t walk to your mail box without getting winded, my suggestion is not to wander to far from you home without an escort. I told you this might hurt a bit, but this is serious stuff and I don’t have time to be politically correct if it will save someone’s life. You may have to walk 50 miles to reach civilization, who knows. Your physical ability is directly linked to the probability of your survival. I highly suggest that if you have not seen the movie Alive that you watch it. It’s a true story about a rugby team that crashed in the Andes Mountains in 1972. It is a must watch for the survival minded person, and a true testament to man’s spirit to live.
DON’T BE A FOOL. It goes without saying that if you plan on taking an excursion into the wilderness, regardless of the location, be prepared and don’t head out without some basic survival gear. It amazes me when I hear how people die in the desert because they didn’t have any water with them when they were found, not even an empty bottle of water! There is a saying, “Better to have than need, than need and not have." Use some common sense when you venture out. Keep in mind the 4 constants: food, water, shelter and fire. Depending on how long you plan on being out, that could be as simple as a quart of water, a lighter, some power bars and poncho. Mother Nature has zero sense of humor for the ill prepared and will gladly relieve you of your life if you’re not ready to face her.

I apologize if I may have offended anyone by writing this, it certainly was not my intention, but “survival" is a subject that needs to be talked about plainly and without having to be politically correct. I have never been accused of keeping my mouth shut or not voicing my opinion. What I have written on fitness, shooting / tactical training and survival is exactly that, my opinion.

Respectfully,

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Christine Barry Posted on October 6th, 2013

30 Essential Things You Should Keep in Your Car

Tips, tricks, and downloads for getting things done.

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Melanie Pinola

cars

9/06/13 8:00am

165,129g377L

30 Essential Things You Should Keep in Your Car

Show Us Your Trunk

Winter is coming, so now might be a good time to think about what you carry around in your car's trunk. Whether it's thoughtfully arranged… Read…

Some of us keep absolutely nothing in our car trunks, while others have enough packed to live in their cars for weeks. Somewhere in between is this list of thirty things we think every car owner should always have on hand.P

You can buy packaged emergency safety kits, like this $35 one from AAA, which includes a booster cable, flashlight, first aid kit, and many other items, but the DIY approach is more satisfying and you probably already have many of these items lying around. It's not just about emergencies or safety, either. Below I've separated the checklists by category.P

AAA 70 Piece Explorer Road Assistance Kit

Amazon.com: $34.15

Add to Cart

100 readers bought this

Car Repair and MaintenanceP

30 Essential Things You Should Keep in Your Car

There's nothing like breaking down at the side of the road and realizing the spare tire in your trunk has a flat from the last time it happened. (True story.) To keep you up and running, keep these in your trunk:P

Spare tire (in good condition), along with a tire jack and tire iron, because without them or someone else to help you, the spare tire is useless. Here's how to change a tire, in case you need a refresher. Also, if your wheels require a special security key, make sure that's always in your car too.P
Tire inflater and sealer, like the Fix-a-Flat, which can plug a leak (and help you avoid using the above tools) just enough to get you to the auto shop.P
Related

How Do I Jump-Start a Car?
It's an essential skill that any driver should have, but if you ask five people how to jump-start a car with a run-down battery, you could get… Read…

Jumper cables, because dead batteries happen to the best of us. We've got a crash course on how to jump-start a car, but you should familiarize yourself with your engine just in case things are a little different. Alternatively, you can pack an emergency battery booster so you don't have to rely on a Good Samaritan coming along.P
Your car's manual, which should be in the glove compartment already.P
Related

And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Parts: Check Tire Pressure
The reason to check your tire pressure is usually explained with some nearly unbelievable statistical simile bordering on hyperbole. If everyone… Read…

Tire pressure gauge: As our sister site Jalopnik points out: "checking tire pressure on a regular basis can improve handling, increase fuel economy, promote tire longevity, and even save lives."P
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Ten Heroic Duct Tape Car Repairs
Who says the dog is man's best friend? When it comes to getting stuff done on your car, a roll of silver magic is all it takes. These are ten of … Read…

Duct tape and WD-40. Seriously, check out these 10 heroic duct tape car repairs.P
Car repair information. A business card for your auto repair shop, the number for AAA (if you're a member), and car insurance claim forms should also be stored in your glove compartment. P

Safety and SurvivalP

You might already have an emergency go bag or kit set up. If you spend a lot of time in your car and it's always nearby when you're home, you could just keep that kit in your trunk—or create a second, perhaps lighter version.P

Make Sure You're Prepared for Disaster with a 72-Hour Kit

If you don't have an adequate emergency kit in your home, here's how to put one together so you're prepared in the event of an… Read…

Make an Emergency "Get Home Bag" to Keep at Work

You might already have a 72-hour disaster kit or even a longer-term Doomsday survival kit, but what if you're caught at work when disaster… Read…

In any case, your safety supplies should include:P

First aid kitP
FlashlightP
Related

Five Best Multitools
If you carry around a multitool in your bag or pocket for quick fixes, repair work, or just in case you need a sharp edge, a screwdriver, or pair of… Read…

Multi-tool (here are your five favorites)P
Matches or other fire starter (Bonus: a candle in a can for winter emergencies)P
Energy bars or MREs (the instant food that heat up with just water)P
Water bottlesP
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If you're a beginning electronic hobbyist looking for an inexpensive project or just want to have a solar-powered radio to throw in your zombie… Read…

Weather radio (You can make a $3 solar-powered one in an altoid tin!)P

A few car-specific items:P

Seat belt cutter and window breaker. This one's $7 on Amazon. Keep this in your glove compartment, not in your trunk, obviously.P
Flares or reflective triangle, so you don't get hit at the side of the road in the dark.P
Maps. Yes, the paper kind.P

Put Together a Winter Car Emergency Kit

Earlier this week we talked about an emergency kit for your home, now it's time to focus on your car and how to be prepared for the… Read…

For winter/snow emergencies:P

Ice scraperP
Mylar space blanket to keep you warm during a blizzard.P
Cardboard or carpet remnant you can place under tires for traction in the snow.P

Convenience and ComfortP

In addition to the basics above, you might want to keep these things around also:P

Paper towels or a hand towelP
Tissues or a roll of toilet paperP
Pencil and paperP
UmbrellaP
Spare change/emergency moneyP
Recycled shopping bags for those impromptu shopping trips.P
Blanket, which comes in handy not just for keeping warm in emergencies, but also at the park, baseball stadium, etc.P
Change of clothes: also an emergency item, because if you get drenched in rain or snow, it's no good to sit around like that.P
USB mobile device chargerP

Junk in the trunk

It's always good to have some basic tools in your car and maybe some other odds and ends. It has been discussed what is good to keep in your car … Read…

This isn't an exhaustive list, and your needs might vary. While it might sound like a lot, all this stuff doesn't take up too much space. Jalopnik's Opposite Lock Kinja blog shows us your car might have good hiding places to stash all of your just-in-case items.P

Photos by Scott & Elaine van der Chijs, State Farm, and bradleygee.P

LDiscuss

509

1Author is participating@

TheOtherHalfUMelanie Pinola

FYI, since Fix-a-Flat was mentioned. Some tire centers and such will refuse to repair your tire if you spray that stuff into it.9/06/13 8:14am

Melanie PinolaUTheOtherHalf

Ah, good to know.9/06/13 8:16am

SEinAZUTheOtherHalf

And you really shouldn't use it if you have tire pressure sensors. Fix-a-Flat can screw those up to the point they have to be replaced.9/06/13 8:19am

ajpleblanc and 52 others...

1Author is participating@

Melanie PinolaUMelanie Pinola

Laundry basket didn't make the list, but I'm fond of the idea.

What else would you include?9/06/13 8:05am

dreygataUMelanie Pinola

Rather than a blanket, I keep a heavier hoody in the car. It lets you bundle up while still remaining mobile, i.e. if you need to fix a flat in cold weather. Plus it's useful in non emergency situation where it start raining and I forgot to bring a jacket.9/06/13 8:21am

wakers01UMelanie Pinola

Rope or 550 cord.9/06/13 8:31am

dreygata and 16 others...

1Author is participating@

Platypus ManUMelanie Pinola

Good list, but if I put all this stuff in my car I wouldn't have room for anything else (though storing stuff with the spare tire isn't a bad idea)...9/06/13 8:43am

Melanie PinolaUPlatypus Man

Ha, my dad made a kit for me and stuffed everything in a milk crate—it even included orange safety cones. In my small Civic, there's still room in the trunk (though I took out the safety cones).9/06/13 8:47am

Platypus ManUMelanie Pinola

Honeslty, part of my reluctance comes from the fact that I don't have a trunk, I have a hatchback (Honda CR-Z). When anything's back there, I'm very aware of it sliding around and if it's too tall, it'll obstruct my view. Still though, getting more than what I have is not a bad idea.9/06/13 8:51am

Mostly Harmlesss and 5 others...

1Author is participating@

FalarisUMelanie Pinola

I'm surprised that a cheap $20 tool kit didn't make it on the list.

When I worked out of town in a remote office, one day the front door's hinge messed up and the door wouldn't close. I was the only one there for awhile and I couldn't leave to go get tools because I couldn't lock the door.

Luckily a co-worker came along to grab something from the office and he had a tool kit in his trunk. 5 minutes later it was all fixed and he told me how important it has been to have that with him over years of working in different small towns.

I immediately went to Walmart after that, bought a tool kit, and threw it in my trunk. Has been there for years now and I did the same thing with my girlfriend's car too. It's just a great idea to always have real tools like a hammer and screwdriver on hand, above and beyond my Leatherman multitool.9/06/13 9:23am

Melanie PinolaUFalaris

I thought maybe the multi-tool would be enough. But maybe not?9/06/13 9:55am

ChrisUMelanie Pinola

I like my multi-tools. I do. Realistically, though, they're virtually useless when working on a car or motorcycle. Always keep a cheapy tool kit with a fairly comprehensive selection of wrenches and sockets.

Also, no fire-exhinguisher? Happy thoughts won't put out your engine when that fuel line lets go. . . 9/06/13 10:38am

Melanie Pinola and 2 others...

10 participants@

dreygataUMelanie Pinola

u
Related

How Do I Jump-Start a Car?
It's an essential skill that any driver should have, but if you ask five people how to jump-start a car with a run-down battery, you could get… Read…

Jumper cables, because dead batteries happen to the best of us. We've got a crash course on how to jump-start a car, but you should familiarize yourself with your engine just in case things are a little different. Alternatively, you can pack an emergency battery booster so you don't have to rely on a Good Samaritan coming along.

This a big thing. I was confused as heck one time while trying to help someone with a dead battery. I could not find the battery in the engine compartment. After looking through their manual, it turns out it was in the trunk.

So make sure you know WHERE your battery is so you can have another car pull up to the correct side of the vehicle (and all the more reason to keep your trunk clean if your battery in back there)9/06/13 8:18am

Dave DebusUdreygata

Many/most cars that have the battery in the back/trunk will have some sort of terminal or access under the hood as well, but again, not always super obvious.9/06/13 8:24am

dreygataUDave Debus

Yeah, this car in particular either didn't have them, or they weren't mentioned in it's manual (wouldn't be the first time I've read a car manual that left something like that out).9/06/13 8:25am

Tommy and 6 others...

19 participants@

beefmaloneUMelanie Pinola

You forgot this...

9/06/13 8:38am

wakers01Ubeefmalone

That tends to stay on my person instead of in my car. Too easy to forget about there.9/06/13 8:54am

MalforusUwakers01

Yup, a gun shouldn't be absently stored anywhere, especially loaded.

Course beefmalone isn't exactly known for his serious contributions.9/06/13 9:01am

wakers01 and 15 others...

6 participants@

ThunderUMelanie Pinola

Screw fix-a-flat.

Just learn how to use the spare. Properly.

Case in point: I had an '07 Civic Si. If I had gotten a flat on a front tire, I would have had to remove a REAR tire, put the spare on there, then replaced the flat FRONT tire with the regular wheel from the rear. Failure to do so would chew up the limited slip diff due to differing tire sizes.

There IS a reason to read the owner's manual (that's also good to have in the car) after all. 9/06/13 9:07am

doodledeveloperUThunder

Or... just have all 4 corners with the same size tyre...

... just a thought...

(175/65's on my front, 195/65's on my rear... hmm...)9/09/13 4:00am

ThunderUdoodledeveloper

Nope - they were all the same size.

Issue was that the diameter of the spare was different... just enough so... that if put on one end of the LSD, it would result in different rotational speeds. That would chew it up.

So, if a rear tire went, no problem, just put the spare on there.

If a front went, though, you had to put the spare on the rear, and put the full-size wheel from the rear onto the front. 9/09/13 5:29am

doodledeveloper and 2 others...

8 participants@

MannyBonesUMelanie Pinola

Remember when even luxury cars came with their own tool kits?

BMW

Porsche9/06/13 12:11pm

syrgrad91UMannyBones

My E36 sedan has a similar tool selection, although mine doesn't have a triangle :(9/06/13 1:02pm

MannyBonesUsyrgrad91

It's my understanding the American cars didn't get the triangle. My Porsche (928, which is what that tool kit is from), did have one, but it was a grey-market import, so I don't know if US cars got triangles too.

On my E39 I've just been trying to figure out what useful stuff can fit in the gaping void left by the triangle's absence. Sadly, I guess new BMW's no longer have the tool kits.9/06/13 1:40pm

MannyBones and 4 others...

1Author is participating@

Steven Phillips PhotographyUMelanie Pinola

Wouldn't the seat belt cutter and window smasher make more sense stuffed in the center console, if they fit? That way if you don't have a passenger you can still reach them.9/06/13 9:27am

Melanie PinolaUSteven Phillips Photography

Yeah, that's a good suggestion.9/06/13 9:53am

robert hornUSteven Phillips Photography

that's what a knife and handgun are for9/06/13 12:59pm

Steven Phillips Photography and 2 others...

8 participants@

GRUMelanie Pinola

Don't skimp on the cables. Buy heavy duty extra long ones.. I spent $12 on a good pair in 1974 and they lasted me for more than 30 years. I cannot begin to count the number of times they came in handy. Also, consider putting your flashlight in a gallon zip loc bag with the batteries next to it. That way they're less likely to be dead when you need it.Yes, I know you have a flashlight app on your phone, but you might need your passenger to use the flashlight to warn oncoming traffic while you use your phone light to change the tire. Consider throwing in a fluorescent vest, the kind cops and highway construction workers use.9/06/13 8:30am

Dr_Zachary_SmithUGR

A while ago I bought one of those "jumper" sets for which you don't have to open the hood, attach it to your battery, etc. Instead, it just plugs into each car's "cigarette lighter" receptacle. It takes about five minutes for a charge to pass, and then...voila! Works like a charm. No jumper cables and exploding batteries for me, thank you sir!9/06/13 11:07am

kschangUGR

Hehe. Most cables you get at local stores are the cheap 10 gauge, or if you pay for the premium, 8 gauge. Real professionals use 6 gauge or 4 gauge jumper cables.

You can buy cheap LED flashlights WITH BATTERIES for about $2.50 each (or cheaper) that are pretty darn bright. You can get REALLY bright ones for $25, or professional strength ones for $100 (like Streamlight, Surefire etc.) that are light mini searchlights. PLEASE GET SOME. I keep two in my car at all times. 9/06/13 11:53am

Graflex and 4 others...

Christine Barry Posted on October 5th, 2013

Transform Any Wall Outlet Into a Secret Safe

Tips, tricks, and downloads for getting things done.

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Thorin Klosowski

diy

36 minutes ago

1,682g7L

Transform Any Wall Outlet Into a Secret Safe

Sometimes you just don't need a giant safe to hide your belongings in, which is why Instructables user The King of Random put together a guide to hiding you smaller stuff inside a wall outlet.P

We've mentioned a hidden wall safe before, but The King of Random goes into a lot more detail with various different builds. The guide walks you through cutting into a brand new outlet, an old one, and even setting it up with cable outlet. If you're looking to hide away your stuff, your wall outlet's a good place to start. Find all the guides over on Instructables. P

Make a Secret Hidden Safe with a Wall Outlet

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There's more to hiding your valuables than making them hard to find. Whether you're hiding a money stash from burglars or secret documents… Read…

How to Make a Super Secret Safe for Less than $3 | InstructablesP

LDiscuss

3 participants@

FaslaneUThorin Klosowski

~ This story brought to you by the friends at the DEA and Walter White AKA "Heisenberg"28 minutes ago

unreliable narratorUFaslane

Ah, you beat me to it!18 minutes ago

FaslaneUunreliable narrator

BAM!! LOL ;-)17 minutes ago

CoyoteUThorin Klosowski

If I was looking around a place for secret stashes, blank wall plates would be a good place to start. The same stud finder he used to place the box also works great for determining if there is something dense behind a wall plate. If they go so far as to put an actual (non-functioning) outlet in there, one of those non-contact voltage testers will discover it, and is a lot easier than carrying around a lamp.

What I'd like to see is a wall safe disguised to look like an outlet that will open when key "plugs" are inserted into the sockets. One more thing: The outlets are wired and fully functional. Try to pick that lock and *POW!*2 minutes ago

Submitted discussions can be approved by the author or users followed by this blog.

Christine Barry Posted on October 4th, 2013

Save Time, Effort, And Money With A Monthly Home and Auto Maintenance Checklist - The Simple Dollar

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Save Time, Effort, And Money With A Monthly Home and Auto Maintenance Checklist

By TrentJune 5, 2007

As a new homeowner, I am very interested in gathering advice from other homeowners on regular maintenance tasks that can keep your home and automobiles running smoothly – a bit of time on a regular basis is well worth avoiding a major disaster later on.

While I cast out requests from many of my friends and acquaintances, I was most interested in the list that my father used for maintenance around our house. Once a month, my parents would have a “maintenance day" where they enlisted all of the children and we all worked hard on home maintenance tasks. Generally, my father focused on mechanical issues around the house and things that could present a danger, while my mother took the opportunity for a thorough scrubbing of the house.

I acquired both of their lists of tasks, along with several other similar lists from other homeowners, and prepared a master list of tasks to be done on a monthly basis. Many of these aren’t really relevant to some homeowners, as they deal with both warm climate and cold climate issues as well as the challenges of shifting back and forth each year (Iowa weather ranges from 90-110 in the summer to well below zero in the winter, Fahrenheit).

Why do this? As a homeowner, your home is a tremendous investment, and regular maintenance helps to ensure that there won’t be significant damage down the road that can potentially cost you a lot of money. Consider that this regular maintenance can stop mold infestations before they cost you thousands. Instead, take the time to regularly inspect and repair little things and your house will keep going in tip-top shape for a long time.

I don’t know if I can do all this in a day! Spread them out – do a couple hour’s worth each Saturday or something to that effect. Just be sure to keep a schedule of what you’re doing so they get done regularly.

Home and Auto Maintenance Checklist

You should do all of these things once a month in your home and your automobile. I have double spaced them so that if you choose to print out this entry, there’s plenty of room to make notes. Some of these might apply to you; I also didn’t include seasonal maintenance tasks like waterproofing your deck and so on. Also, if you know of anything I missed, please say so in the comments.

Check the tire pressure on all cars and air them up to the recommended maximum

Check the oil on the lawnmower and sharpen the blades – well-sharpened mower blades drastically reduce mowing time

Check, clean, and perhaps replace the air filter on all automobiles

Check the fluid levels in all automobiles and adjust as needed

Check and fill all gas cans for lawnmowers, etc.

Check for squeaky doors and oil them as needed

Check and clean range hood filters

Check and replace furnace filters

Check and replace other ventilation system filters

Check and replace humidifier filters

Remove grills on forced air system ducts and vacuum inside the ducts

Examine the foundation for any cracks

Examine exposed wood (attic, etc.) for insect damage and do any insect preventative maintenance that needs to happen

Test all ground fault circuit interrupters

Check all vents (inside and outside) and make sure there are no obstructions

Remove screens, clean window wells, and dry them

Examine all outdoor items and see whether any seasonal maintenance needs to be done

Drain off a pan full of water from the clean-out valve at the bottom of your hot water tank (removes sediment and maintains efficiency)

Check your sump pump for any issues

Test all fire/smoke/carbon monoxide detectors in the house

Check all window and door locks to ensure they’re all in working order

Check your fire escape plan and make sure that furniture additions haven’t changed this

Check all faucets for dripping water and change washers if needed

Run all sinks, toilets, baths, and showers to ensure no problems (mostly just the ones not used frequently)

Check the gauge on all fire extinguishers and replace if needed

Use a pipe cleaner and baking soda to clean all drains

Check all gutters for blockage and clean as needed (bird’s nests, leaves, etc.)

Check all visible pipes for leaks (don’t forget under sinks, etc.)

Check and clean refrigerator and freezer coils (we did this about once every six months, if I remember right)

Check all caulking and repair as needed

Monthly Cleaning Checklist

This is the checklist used by my mother during her monthly “cleaning day," which helped keep the house fresh. It might also be useful to you and, as before, the items are double spaced for printing and note-taking.

Clean all windows – remove the screens, clean the windowsills thoroughly, and also clean the windows thoroughly with Windex

Vacuum under all furniture – and vacuum all furniture, removing the cushions, etc.

Shampoo carpets as needed – this was usually done in a batch every few months

Scrub all non-carpeted floors – soap and brush on your hands and knees

Scour all sinks and tabletops

Sweep the garage floor

Put anything unused into storage (we had an annual “go through the storage" event, too)

Inventory all food staples (pantry, freezer, etc.), throw out what’s old, make a master list, and go to the store to replace what’s needed

Completely clean out refrigerator, thoroughly clean inside, then restock

Take a look at a more complete list of DIY home repairs you can make to lower your home insurance rates.

June 5, 2007 @ 12:30 pm - Written by TrentCategories: Automobile,Frugality,HousingBookmarks: del.icio.us, reddit

Can Social Networking Really Save a Small Business Money?

DIY Modification and Maintenance Tips to Keep Your Car Insurance Rates Low

Choosing an Auto Body Shop that Works for You and Your Insurance

Cloth Diapering: Does It Save Enough Money To Be Worth The Extra Effort?

Practice a Monthly Home Maintenance Schedule (240/365)

Do Your Own Car Maintenance, Save Hundreds Per Year

Does Home Photo Printing Really Save Money?

Building A Home Maintenance And Improvement Fund

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Christine Barry Posted on October 4th, 2013

Axe Skills, and info

Axe Skills, and info

Moderators: Woods Walker, ZS Global Moderators

First unread post • 86 posts • Page 1 of 4 • 12 3 4

Axe Skills, and info

by ineffableone » Thu Jul 26, 2012 12:25 am

On another tread about the new Wetterlings Bushman axe it was suggested we start an axe skills thread (Ok Ninja-elbow said he was going to, but I just couldn't wait for him, the idea was too exciting for me, sorry ninja if I am jumping the gun here) to help get people who might not think of using a pack axe to gain skills to start taking an axe out with them. Some of this post is from my last comment in that previous thread expanded a bit to be more inclusive. Rather than trying to come up with all original content I will be borrowing from a lot of different places, for videos and pictures etc, and linking good reference sites. Partially since I have no video camera to make my own videos, and why reproduce what has already been done by others. This is more a consolidation of information for those who have not explored axe craft yet, or want to get better at it.

First off, lets deal with the parts of the axe. Knowing what your talking about really helps.

Secondly with axes, they come in different sizes and shapes. The above graphic of the parts of an axe is not all inclusive because it deals with only one axe not all of the different types. Not every size or shape is suited for every task, neither is every shape axe suited for all types of wood.

The classic guide to choosing a pack axe is the Ray Mears video Choosing and using an axe, Bushcraft Survival

This is a good example of how different sized different axes can be.
From What is the Right Size Axe for You-A Gransfors Bruks Axe Comparison
http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2011/04/what-is-right-size-axe-for-you.html

American Felling Axe next to the Scandinavian Forest Axe

Scandinavian Forest Axe next to the Small Forest Axe

Small Forest Axe next to the Wildlife Hatchet

As you can see there is a pretty big difference between the different axes, and these are all just from the same company not a bunch of different companies. Different sizes and shapes made for different tasks. Not every axe is one you want to use for a pack axe. Wood Trekker's blog has some great informative info that can help a lot when looking at what axe size is right for you. Remember too what axe you choose also has a lot to do with where you plan to use it. Not every axe has a geometry suited for every forest. American Axe designs are often named after an area they came into use. Like Michigan, Ohio, Virginia, etc. Or for the task they were designed for carpenter's, felling, splitting, etc Different axes work better for different tasks and woods.

Axe Head Geometry-Phantom Bevels and Tapered Cheeks from Wood Trekker

Some different axe patterns.

This is nowhere near all the different types of axes out there. Just a few of them. You can see some are only subtly different while others are dramatical different.

Here is a similar diagram but it also gives axe head weights along with patterns. Very informative knowing the weight along with the shape.

The above image is from a gov site and put out by the US Forest Service An Ax to Grind: A Practical Ax Manual http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/recreational_trails/publications/fs_publications/99232823/page02.cfm which is a companion to a very good video by the same name An Ax to Grind which can be found on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xz3rs-eaN3E along with another video Handtools For Trail Work http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1sZBhN4Y2kI Both these youtube sources for these videos combine the two parts of the videos together, each is about 1 hour long.

I highly recommend visiting the Ax to Grind website and watching the videos for anyone interested in axes!
An Ax to Grind, both the website info and video are amazingly informative and a great source for axe info. Handtools For Trail Work covers a lot more than axes, but has a bit more coverage of some axe skills than An Ax to Grind. I like to consider these two as part of a whole, and they were both put out by the US Forest Service as such. *edit to add, I just found this link to a PDF download of the An Ax to Grind website info, http://bushcraftusa.com/forum/downloads.php?do=file&id=402

Like a lot of gear, it helps to become informed about the subject. Making an assumption due to lack of knowledge sets you up to make the wrong conclusions. This reminds me of Nutnfancy's video about axes not being good for packs. He took a Friskars splitting axe out and chopped at a large log with poor axe skills to show how much work it was to use an axe and how inefficient it was. Well of course it was, you used the wrong axe silly. A splitting axe has a much heavier bigger head than a felling or forest axe does. They are meant to be left at a house to split wood for your fire place not to take into the woods. Also he used extremely incorrect axe work along with the wrong axe. He was doomed to fail from the beginning. But that is an example of someone not knowing the right info thinking an axe is a poor choice for the woods due to this poor knowledge.

The nutnfancy video showing how not to use an axe. LOL

The number one reason I have seen for people who have an axe but think axes are poor tools, is they don't keep their axe sharp. A safe axe is a sharp axe, a dull axe is a dangerous axe. It sounds counter intuitive but it is true, a sharp axe performs well and does what it is supposed to do, a dull one bounces and deflects becoming wild and dangerous. Plus a dull axe is not performing as it should taking a lot more effort than it should, straining the body when it shouldn't. Good axe maintenance means sharpening your axe, and taking care of your handle and sheath.

Ray Mears - How to sharpen an axe at camp, Bushcraft Survival

Ray Mears - How to look after your axe, Bushcraft Survival

Of course you might not be carrying around Japanese water stones, and all this stuff that Ray Mears is suggesting. A common axe sharpener for in the field is a Lansky puck. These are mentioned in the Ax to Grind video, in case you hadn't watched that.

These are nice hand sized duel grit stones and great for field sharpening. Other companies make these pucks, including one made by axe maker Gransfors Bruks.

How To Sharpen An Axe a video showing the puck style for axe sharpening.

When sharpening you want your axe as sharp as you would a knife. If it can't cut paper then it is too dull. If your cutting hard wood and notice your axe is dulling, take the time to sharpen it and it will cut better and safer. Same if you happen to strike the ground and ding the edge, take the time to fix the edge and you will be much happier.

(moving some videos to second post to shorten the post to a more readable amount)

Last edited by ineffableone on Sun Jul 29, 2012 9:24 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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Re: Axe Skills, and info

by ineffableone » Thu Jul 26, 2012 12:46 am

Some videos showing some axe work.

HOW TO USE AN AXE !

A decent video series showing the basics of axe skills is once again from Wood Trekker.

Basic Axe Use Part 1: Chopping

Basic Axe Use Part 2: Limbing and Bucking

Basic Axe Use Part 3: Splitting

Basic Axe Use Part 4: Carving

other videos bushcraft axe related

How to use an Axe for Bushcraft

Axes in Bushcraft

Axe Practice

Making a Bowl Using a Gransfors Bruks Kubben Hatchet

And there are lots lots more out there. The axe is a learned skill, you can't just buy one and be an expert with it right away. You need to practice with it. You also need to try different types of axes. As I mentioned earlier not all axes are good for every wood or task. Some axes will be much better suited for some tasks just because of the wood involved or the geometry and weight of the head. Also of course handle length makes a difference. Sometimes you want short handled other times you want long. Getting experience is really the only way to get a good grasp of what will work best for you.

While this post is long, it is by no means complete or totally comprehensive. I hope others will add in their knowledge and information. I am not an expert on axes, just someone who loves using them and hopes others out there might want to learn more about these tools, or share the knowledge they have.

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Re: Axe Skills, and info

by the_alias » Thu Jul 26, 2012 12:50 am

Nice compilation of information, thanks for taking the time to collect it and post it in such a format!

I'm a big fan of my GFB Small Forest and the Hatchet - I think in winter an axe is indispensable.

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Re: Axe Skills, and info

by ninja-elbow » Thu Jul 26, 2012 10:09 am

Excellent, good work! :clap:

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Re: Axe Skills, and info

by ineffableone » Thu Jul 26, 2012 10:58 am

the_alias wrote:Nice compilation of information, thanks for taking the time to collect it and post it in such a format!

I'm a big fan of my GFB Small Forest and the Hatchet - I think in winter an axe is indispensable.

GFB Small Forest axe is definitely one of the most highly recommended bushcraft axes. Though the Wetterlings Bushman coming out in Nov might give it a run with the different head shape. I am pretty sure it will be on a lot of X-Mass lists for axe lovers. Sort of a cross between a small forest axe and a carpenters axe. I ordered the Fine Forest axe, which has a similar head design but the longer 24" handle. Check out the thread on the Bushman here http://zombiehunters.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=96422

ninja-elbow wrote:Excellent, good work!

Glad you like it Ninja, but of course the props go to you for thinking up the idea to do an axe skills post, so thanks for doing the heavy work and thinking up the idea.

One of the most important things in the post I think is this bellow.

ineffableone wrote:An Ax to Grind: A Practical Ax Manual http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/recreational_trails/publications/fs_publications/99232823/page02.cfm which is a companion to a very good video by the same name An Ax to Grind which can be found on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xz3rs-eaN3E along with another video Handtools For Trail Work http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1sZBhN4Y2kI Both these youtube sources for these videos combine the two parts of the videos together, each is about 1 hour long.

I highly recommend visiting the Ax to Grind website and watching the videos for anyone interested in axes!
An Ax to Grind, both the website info and video are amazingly informative and a great source for axe info. Handtools For Trail Work covers a lot more than axes, but has a bit more coverage of some axe skills than An Ax to Grind. I like to consider these two as part of a whole, and they were both put out by the US Forest Service as such.

Those two videos are a wealth of info great for beginners and experienced axe enthusiasts. The web site An Ax to Grind: A Practical Ax Manual is loaded with so much info it is ridiculous. There is a huge amount of great info on the development and history of axes, the different styles, and so much more. I can visit that site again and again just soaking up the info there and never get full or tired of the great resource that it is.

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Re: Axe Skills, and info

by Turtlewolf » Thu Jul 26, 2012 11:17 am

Last edited by Turtlewolf on Fri Oct 26, 2012 5:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Axe Skills, and info

by KentsOkay » Thu Jul 26, 2012 11:43 am

Holy information load Batman!

I thought I was good with an ax. I now realize I am an absolute novice with an ax. The first video alone showed me stuff I've never thought of before or done opposite of. I will return to watch it all.

0122358 wrote:so we moved a thread to maintain OPSEC on a fictional vid game so our team doesnt get kill as easily by possible spies...fuckin sweet

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Re: Axe Skills, and info

by ineffableone » Thu Jul 26, 2012 11:47 am

Turtlewolf wrote:My hat is off to you!
It is about time someone did this.
I've used axes/hatchets/tomahawks most of my life and IMHO they make the best heavier tool in my AO for the bush, I also like flat edges on my bushcraft axes like those on the so called carpenters axes or even the inexpensive (but amazingly high value) Fiskars. The carpenters axes do sacrifice some splitting ability unless you are willing to batton a bit with them, then the increased utility of the flat edge wins out every day. The Fiskars loose nothing for splitting but the more wedge like head makes fine detail work a little harder (but not enough to worry) than the carpenters axes.
Also the first time I watched that Nutnfancy video I almost wet myself laughing, this jackass claims to have been a Marine and almost every video I've seen makes me think he should play fewer video games and pull his head from his ass.
Anyone who would lug a heavy splitting axe half way up a mountain to try and prove than an axe is inferior is stupider than a sack of hammers.
I realy do like other tools such as the machete and khukri but in my AO the axe/hatchet/tomahawk wins every day.

Machete and khukri have their place, but that is usually more in jungle or swamp land and sometimes desert. In most of N America or N Europe the axe is the tool you want. That is why historically that was the tool folks took with them into the bush. I am in no way saying axes are better or discounting the large blades, just pointing out different areas have different vegetation that suits different tools. N Europe and N America is much more axe territory due to the requirements of the vegetation. I have debated getting different machete, parang, khukri, etc often but when out in the woods never find enough reason to want one. If I do encounter a thick spot, I tend to just walk around it, or use a stick to push the veg out of the way or cut with a knife or even use my folding saw to slash with if I really feel the need to go into it. But that happens too rarely for me to buy a machete so far.

You might want to check out the Wetterlings Fine Forest axe AKA the Universal Woodsman's axe or the up coming Bushman's axe which is a Wetterlings collaboration with Les Stroud. They are smaller lighter "carpenter's" style heads on longer handles. They might be right up your alley, like they were mine.

Yep that Nutnfancy video was such a classic example of someone who does not know what they are talking about with axes trying to tell others about axes. Sad part though is a lot of people will actually listen to him and think he knows what he is talking about.

I have two of the Gerber/Fiskars axes, they were given to me. I find the metal in them a bit soft, and they need touching up more often than my Wetterlings does. Though they are easy to touch up. I also noticed the wrap that goes around them tends to snag a bit and chip when splitting. Possibly a place for future failure. Of course I think it will take a long time to cause enough damage to that area to cause a problem. I do have to say they do actually throw pretty well, and the synthetic handle is no worries when throwing. :clap:

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Re: Axe Skills, and info

by ineffableone » Thu Jul 26, 2012 11:51 am

KentsOkay wrote:Holy information load Batman!

I thought I was good with an ax. I now realize I am an absolute novice with an ax. The first video alone showed me stuff I've never thought of before or done opposite of. I will return to watch it all.

LOL, don't worry I am always learning too, and there is tons of info I posted up that I still haven't fully digested myself and made part of my own personal axe craft. There is a lot of info out there, and it is great to keep learning and finding out what others are doing. Then getting out and practising yourself.

Watch Ray Mears make a paddle with his axe, and you quickly realise how much more you need to just go out and give projects a try.

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Re: Axe Skills, and info

by Turtlewolf » Thu Jul 26, 2012 11:53 am

Last edited by Turtlewolf on Fri Oct 26, 2012 5:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Axe Skills, and info

by ineffableone » Thu Jul 26, 2012 12:13 pm

Turtlewolf wrote:To the OP, you probably have much harder woods than I in my AO.
The hardest trees I have are pine knots, birch and willow.
I've had my old style Fiskars hatchet for ages and it hasn't ever failed me, they are a bit soft but for me that is an advantage as it is easier to care for. I actualy find myself prefering the old style over the new X7. Also the softest blade I have of the large choppers is my Tramontina 14" Bolo, I actualy dented the blade a few years ago on a pine knot then took a ball peen hammer and smashed it flat again with no firther issues.
Another blade I've abused is my Kabar Khukri which has proven a pretty good tool, but is probably the most awkward for detail work of the lot.
I'm realy liking my modified Cold Steel Trailhawk, but it cost twice what a Fiskars X7 does and it took over six hours to get it to where I like it as a tool.
For the record, make sure your tomahawk head is firmly attached kids! The myth that it should come off easily just means you have a broken tool.

I am in the Pac NW, so mostly soft trees here, and I wasn't complaining really just noticed the Fiskars edge took more damage due to a softer metal than a Wetterlings did. I don't have a GFB but image they would hold up more too. There is of course trade offs for hardness. Harder edges will stay sharp longer, however are more difficult to sharpen, they are also more prone to chips rather than softer edges which will roll or dent before they chip which is much easier to fix without loosing a lot of edge metal. So there are pluses and minuses for each really. *edit to add, one reason I tend to prefer the harder metal of Wetterlings is it holds the edge longer, a sharp axe is a safe axe.

As for the Bushman, yes the celebrity name of Les Stroud will probably raise the price, but I imagine it wont be overly expensive, and Les is Canadian, you might get a better deal on those than us in the US. The Fine Forest axe is $102 after shipping from http://store.harryepstein.com/cp/Wetter ... AW176.html, I just ordered one and it should be getting here tomorrow, I am so excited to have a new axe to play with. I will let you know how well it performs.

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Re: Axe Skills, and info

by ineffableone » Thu Jul 26, 2012 12:20 pm

ineffableone wrote:
KentsOkay wrote:Holy information load Batman!

I thought I was good with an ax. I now realize I am an absolute novice with an ax. The first video alone showed me stuff I've never thought of before or done opposite of. I will return to watch it all.

LOL, don't worry I am always learning too, and there is tons of info I posted up that I still haven't fully digested myself and made part of my own personal axe craft. There is a lot of info out there, and it is great to keep learning and finding out what others are doing. Then getting out and practising yourself.

Watch Ray Mears make a paddle with his axe, and you quickly realise how much more you need to just go out and give projects a try.

As mentioned Ray Mears making a paddle in the bush!

This always just makes me want to go out and start building and making stuff with axes. :clap:

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Re: Axe Skills, and info

by Turtlewolf » Thu Jul 26, 2012 12:31 pm

Last edited by Turtlewolf on Fri Oct 26, 2012 5:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Axe Skills, and info

by KentsOkay » Thu Jul 26, 2012 12:39 pm

Turtlewold I'm going to take a wild guess and assume your Tramontina was a poorly tempered mistake. I've always found Tramontina to be superior to everything else, machete wise.

Here on the edge of Texas Hill Country meets Blackland Prairie , I'm trying to figure out what the best ax/use of ax is. We've got juniper/post cedar trees out the ass, some oak, and further east (into the prairie) mesquite. Looks like this:

I've got a cheap Lowe's chopping ax which I use for some brush management and light firewood splitting, but the Stihl is the work horse. I wouldn't mind putting more work in with the ax to develop my skills. It's got a dent in the blade which I've almost worked out through sharpening (I used a bench grinder then finished by hand with a well worn grinding wheel). Am I polishing a turd here? After only a little work with oak it needs sharpening again. How do these woods compare to say, the north west? I ask as this is one of the places I plan to spend time swinging an ax while camping/etc.

Also have an older Estwing Camp Axe, it operates between machete and Lowe's Ax. Realllly wanna pick up the Carpenter's Axe and jazz it up.

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Re: Axe Skills, and info

by ineffableone » Thu Jul 26, 2012 12:44 pm

Turtlewolf wrote:I wish we got deals because a celebrity was Canadian! I realy like his original knife but the cost is crazy, but then my favorite bush knife is the Mora 612 or 611 and until recently I bought them for $10 a peice. My oldest Mora is over 25 years old and although ugly and patinaed it still holds its edge and is a trusted (although now retired) companion, it is a plastic handled 511.
I have yet to pay more than $40 for an axe/tomahawk/hatchet but I did recently pay $80 for a Kabar Potbelly and have to admit a bit of fondness for the blade and it almost is good enough to replace my hatchet or tomahawk on hikes. I think it isn't the blade but my history with the axe that prevents it from being used more honestly.
As you can see I'm pretty cheap but the cost of my gear is far less than the utility of it!

I totally hear you, I am on quite a small budget, spending the $102 for the Fine Forest axe was a big investment for me, and actually only happened due to me having saved up some cash, I have a birthday next month and felt like giving myself a gift.

Even though I am on a budget, I tend to find things I really like and save up to get them, with in reason. I still have yet to save up for the $400+ Mystery Ranch pack I want, my ILBE seems just fine at an $89 investment and I did save up for that one too.

Sometimes though it is worth it to pay a bit more and get something higher quality you know will last you your life and likely into your grandchildren's life.

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Re: Axe Skills, and info

by Turtlewolf » Thu Jul 26, 2012 12:53 pm

Last edited by Turtlewolf on Fri Oct 26, 2012 5:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Axe Skills, and info

by ineffableone » Thu Jul 26, 2012 1:01 pm

KentsOkay wrote:Turtlewold I'm going to take a wild guess and assume your Tramontina was a poorly tempered mistake. I've always found Tramontina to be superior to everything else, machete wise.

Here on the edge of Texas Hill Country meets Blackland Prairie , I'm trying to figure out what the best ax/use of ax is. We've got juniper/post cedar trees out the ass, some oak, and further east (into the prairie) mesquite. Looks like this:

I've got a cheap Lowe's chopping ax which I use for some brush management and light firewood splitting, but the Stihl is the work horse. I wouldn't mind putting more work in with the ax to develop my skills. It's got a dent in the blade which I've almost worked out through sharpening (I used a bench grinder then finished by hand with a well worn grinding wheel). Am I polishing a turd here? After only a little work with oak it needs sharpening again. How do these woods compare to say, the north west? I ask as this is one of the places I plan to spend time swinging an ax while camping/etc.

Also have an older Estwing Camp Axe, it operates between machete and Lowe's Ax. Realllly wanna pick up the Carpenter's Axe and jazz it up.

I lived in AZ for 4 yrs doing landscaping for an Architecture community. Had to cut lots of Juniper and Mesquite but usually with saws. The Pac NW is much softer woods than the SW! Your going to want to have a good high rockwell edge on your axe blade just be careful with rocks and hitting the ground as the edge will be more brittle. That Lowes axe will not cut it as they tend to be made for just general axe use.

However I noticed you said bench grinder? Eeep! Don't sharpen axes with a bench grinder. You can ruin the blade's temper that way. You want to use a hand file, and sharpening stones. If you have to opt for power tools, you want a belt sander with high grit belts and you want to be very careful of the heat build up. Definitely watch that video An Ax to Grind.

I have not been in need of a good hard wood axe, so am not sure of the best brands, but there is an article that might help with identifying a good hard wood axe on Wood Trekker's Blog actually from another guy, (love the axe knowledge sharing) The article is about how to reprofile an axe http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2011/04/guest-post-how-to-reprofile-axes-and.html

There is a difference between axes meant for hardwood as opposed to softwood. Softwood is more "spongy" in a sense, so when you make your second cut, you need a wider blade to clear the cut and eject the chip of wood out. This does not mean thicker, but, from the edge to where the cheeks start will be a greater distance than on a hardwood axe. I typically make this distance anywhere up to 1 1/2" on axes used for birch or pine. If the blade is narrow, then the wood will simply compress and not split along the grain. This results in having to twist the axe in the wood to try clear the cut. Hardwoods are more brittle so you don't need such a broad "wedge" to cause the wood to crack and be ejected. On hardwoods I tend to leave about a 1/2" blade.

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Re: Axe Skills, and info

by KentsOkay » Thu Jul 26, 2012 1:03 pm

Turtlewolf wrote:Kent, if you used a grinder on an axe you probably killed what temper it had-don't ever use a grinder on any blade to sharpen it!
Get a good single cut axe file and a stone.

I very well may have killed the temper, although I did go to some lengths to insure I didn't, I'd dip it in water every couple of passes I made. If I did fuck it up more though (I was trying to work out a big fucking dent made dad put in it when trying to do some log splitting), that would totally justify getting a new ax!

So someone tell me what midsize axe I should buy for chopping dense, springy shitty wood, chopping hardwood, and killing zombies :lol:

EDIT: good info ineff, I'll take a look at that link.

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Re: Axe Skills, and info

by Turtlewolf » Thu Jul 26, 2012 1:06 pm

Last edited by Turtlewolf on Fri Oct 26, 2012 5:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Axe Skills, and info

by KentsOkay » Thu Jul 26, 2012 1:12 pm

Turtlewolf wrote:Kent, for killing Zombies get a good broad axe custom made from Stormcrow.
Actualy you know what? He built a ton of axes and used them on Texas hardwoods and they weren't that expensive, why not give him a call or message?

Man, I totally forgot he was doing axe heads, I'll have to drop him a line. Not only is he the resident blade expert, he knows what the hell I'm hacking.

Honestly, the to-be-owned Estwing and my Windlass sword are my primary melee weapons, a full axe is too damn heavy for the way I fight.

Not sure if that should be blue text or not.

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Re: Axe Skills, and info

by Turtlewolf » Thu Jul 26, 2012 1:18 pm

Last edited by Turtlewolf on Fri Oct 26, 2012 5:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Axe Skills, and info

by KentsOkay » Thu Jul 26, 2012 1:28 pm

Turtlewolf wrote:I've had my Estwing for longer than I care to recall and it has been with me on many an adventure but detail work is difficult because of the handle design and it is a poor splitter as well as being heavier than it needs to be. That said they chop very well, hold an edge and are unkillable!
What Windlass sword, if I may ask?

I picked up the Raptor when it was Deal of the Day with Museum Replicas, I've wanted one for years and when it was half price I just had to have it.

http://www.sword-buyers-guide.com/Windlass-Raptor-Review.html

I have yet to sharpen it or chop at anything more then boxes, but suffice to say I love it, and has started an obsession of mine to put a katana blade in a western hilt.

Back on topic, I'm hoping the hammer head on the Carpenter's Axe will allow a close grip on the head for fine work, I'll experiment and might make a head wrap, or upper handle wrap from leather/paracord.

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Re: Axe Skills, and info

by ineffableone » Thu Jul 26, 2012 1:39 pm

KentsOkay wrote:
Turtlewolf wrote:I've had my Estwing for longer than I care to recall and it has been with me on many an adventure but detail work is difficult because of the handle design and it is a poor splitter as well as being heavier than it needs to be. That said they chop very well, hold an edge and are unkillable!
What Windlass sword, if I may ask?

I picked up the Raptor when it was Deal of the Day with Museum Replicas, I've wanted one for years and when it was half price I just had to have it.

http://www.sword-buyers-guide.com/Windlass-Raptor-Review.html

I have yet to sharpen it or chop at anything more then boxes, but suffice to say I love it, and has started an obsession of mine to put a katana blade in a western hilt.

Back on topic, I'm hoping the hammer head on the Carpenter's Axe will allow a close grip on the head for fine work, I'll experiment and might make a head wrap, or upper handle wrap from leather/paracord.

Yay for SBG I am a regular on the SBG forum :clap:

Great sword BTW

Your going for the carpenter's axe? Or do you mean the carpenter's style axe like on the Bushman or Fine forest axe?

I will be able to tell you tomorrow how the hammer poll feels for the Fine Forest axe. The Wetterlings Carpenter's axe head is bigger, and heavier. It worked well when I used my friends, though if it were mine I would have filed down the hammer poll's edges a bit rounding them slightly. It is a mod I plan on doing to the Fine Forest axe if it doesn't already have rounded edges.

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Re: Axe Skills, and info

by KentsOkay » Thu Jul 26, 2012 1:48 pm

Huzzah! I am a lurker on SBG.

I speak of the Estwing Carpenter's Hatchet:

http://www.amazon.com/EstWing-Solid-Carpenters-Hatchet-Cutting/dp/B000KKWN82/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1343328414&sr=8-1&keywords=estwing+carpenters+hatchet

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