Essential Tools for your Toolbox
12 Tools Every Man Should Have in His Toolbox
by Brett on February 17, 2009 · 188 comments
Your girlfriend needs help putting some furniture together. Your wife asks you to install a ceiling fan. Your kid needs her bike fixed. Of course you have the tools to take on these jobs, right? For many younger men these days, owning a well equipped toolbox is something that only their dads do. Often when these men have a project, they have to go to someone else to take care of their handyman needs. But a man should be self-reliant. He should have the tools and know-how to tackle basic projects around the house.
If you’re one of those younger gents who just never got around to stocking a toolbox, below we’ve included a list 12 basic tools that we think every toolbox should have.
Before You Buy
A few things to remember before you head over to the hardware store and go on a shopping spree:
Fork over the money for quality tools. You can easily go to Wal-Mart and buy an entire 102 piece, Made in China, piece of crap tool set for $30. Fight the temptation. These chintzy tools will probably last you a few uses before they snap or break on you. Invest your money in quality, durable tools that will last a lifetime. If you have no clue about which brand to go for, Craftsman tools are a pretty safe bet. They’re durable and tough, and their hand tools come with a lifetime warranty.
One at a time. Rome wasn’t built in a day, and neither are great tool boxes. You don’t need to buy your complete set of tools all at once (unless of course you have the scratch to do so). Spread your acquisitions out so you don’t break the bank. Another good way to build your toolbox arsenal is to ask for specific tools for presents on different occasions. If you’re a young man just graduating high school, ask for some tools instead of money. That’s when I started my tool collection. I also know of a couple of (lucky) guys whose friends threw them a “Man Shower" before they got hitched. All of their buddies brought a tool or piece of camping gear to bestow upon the groom-to-be. Also, Christmas, your birthday, and Father’s Day are all great times to acquire tools.
Claw Hammer
A good, solid hammer can be used for driving nails into wood as well as small demolition jobs. My old man would use his hammer for damn near everything, much to the chagrin of my mother. Go for the classic 16 ounce hammer. It’s heavy enough for most basic home repair needs, but light enough for you to carry around without it being a nuisance. While your grandpa probably used a hammer with a wooden handle, you shouldn’t. Wood handles break easily. Go with something that has a long-lasting synthetic handle. Also, when picking out a hammer, you want one that has a good balance in your hand and isn’t head heavy. It’s a lot like picking out a golf club or a baseball bat. So go to the hardware store and try a few out before making your selection.
Flathead Screwdriver
Image by CBJason
A flathead screwdriver has a single blade that fits into the single slot of a flathead screw. Flathead screws have been around for a l o n g time, so it’s likely your great-great grandpa had a few flathead screwdrivers in his tool chest. While the Phillips screw has quickly taken the place of flathead screws in most projects, it’s still a good idea to have a few flathead drivers in your tool arsenal. In addition to driving in screws, flatheads can also be improvised for different uses like light prying, scrapping, and nudging. Quick tip: make sure the electricity is turned off BEFORE you start sticking a screwdriver in a light socket to pry out a broken bulb. Trust me.
Phillips Screwdriver
Image by milliped
Invented by Henry F. Phillips in 1936, the Phillips head screw has quickly replaced the flathead screw in most projects. A Phillips head screwdriver has a four star point at the end that fits into the corresponding screw’s shallow, cross-shaped depression. This design allows a user to apply more torque than is possible with a flathead screwdriver. The depression forces the blades of the Phillips screwdriver to slip out before any damaging over-torquing can occur. As mentioned above, Phillips screws have pretty much replaced flathead screws, so make sure you have a good set of Phillips screwdrivers in varying sizes.
Tape Measure
Image by redjar
Whether you’re building a gun cabinet or measuring to see if that flat screen TV will fit in your den, a dependable 25′ retractable metal measuring tape is a must. Plus, they’re fun for your kids. I remember my brother and I would take my dad’s measuring tape and extend the tape all the way out, lock it, and then watch it retract. It was double fun when the end would accidently pinch my brother’s finger, and he would start crying.
Crescent Wrench
Image by treedork
Of all your tools, this baby will probably see the most action. It’s like having 50 wrenches in one. The crescent wrench is an adjustable wrench with a sliding jaw that changes the width of the wrench. So you can use the same tool on different size nuts and bolts. Remember, when you’re using a crescent wrench, the movable jaw is located on the side towards which the rotation is to be performed. This reduces the chance of backlash.
Socket Wrench (aka the ratchet)
Image by john4kc
When you have a large project that requires you to tighten and loosen a bunch of nuts and bolts, it’s time to put aside the crescent wrench and reach for its more efficient brother. The socket wrench’s ratcheting mechanism allows you to tighten a nut without having to remove and refit the wrench after each and every turn. This can make your life a whole lot easier when you’re taking on larger projects. A 3/8-inch socket wrench with a couple of extenders and a set of sockets should do the trick.
Vise Grip (locking) Pliers
Image by jon m ryan
Vise grip pliers come in handy when you need an extra hand but only have your own two mitts to work with. Vise grip pliers are pliers that can lock in place. Some locking pliers use a mechanism that allows one- handed release of the locking mechanism; others require two hands to disengage. They are versatile tools that can be used as pliers, a pipe wrench, an adjustable wrench, wire cutters, a ratchet, or a clamp. Standard 5-10WR pliers are good for most stuff around the house and garage.
Needle Nose Pliers
Image by Oh my gil
An essential electrician’s tool, needle nose pliers are good for any household project which requires you to cut, bend, grip, or strip wire. Because of their long and skinny shape, they’re particularly useful for getting into small cavities. You can also use them to pinch your younger brother with.
Cordless Drill and Bits
Image by puuikibeach
A good cordless drill is an essential tool to have in your toolbox. It can be used for drilling holes into sheetrock or driving screws into a 2×4. When choosing a cordless drill, you want one with lots of power, which is measured by the amount of voltage in its battery. You can get drills that have batteries that go up to 18v. But when you increase voltage, you increase weight. That 18 volt bad boy weighs 10 pounds. 12 volts is a good size. It’s enough power to do most stuff around the house but isn’t too heavy. Also, make sure the drill you get has multiple speeds and is reversible. The reversible feature will come in handy if you need to take some screws out when your treehouse goes awry.
Crosscut Saw
Image by wick
The image of a fine handsaw has long been the emblem of a craftsman at work. A good general purpose handsaw is useful for trimming branches off your tree or cutting lumber for a project around the house. Crosscut saws are used to cut against the grain on a piece of wood. That’s exactly what you do when you trim a branch or shorten a 2×4. If you think you’ll be doing work that requires you to cut along the wood’s grain, get a rip saw as well.
Level
Image by jkdigitalservices
Whether you’re hanging up pictures or putting a mantle over your fireplace, a straight line is absolutely crucial. You don’t want to put a bunch of nails in the wall, only to step back and see that’s it’s crooked. To get the job done right the first time, you need to use a level. There are some sophisticated laser levels available these days, but you can’t beat the satisfaction of finally nudging that bubble into place. Of course if you have the iphone level app, you’re all set.
Utility Knife
Image by eab aod
While it may not be the most exciting of the tools, your utility knife will never be found gathering dust at the bottom of your toolbox. Every project always provides plenty of things to cut and scrape, hundreds of tasks that cry out for the utility knife’s super sharp blade.
Alright. Now it’s your turn. Did we leave any tools off the list that you think should be in every man’s toolbox? Disagree with the ones that made it on the list? Drop a line in the comment box and offer your suggestions.
{ 186 comments… read them below or add one }
- 101SashkelaMarch 21, 2009 at 1:54 pm
Can I translate your article into Russian and published on my blog?
- 102NickJApril 6, 2009 at 12:41 am
While I’ve seen mention of pry-bars, and crowbars, breaker-bars and lead pipes (creative I’ll say) I haven’t seen mentioned a cats paw. Sure, they’re on the small side, but when trying to pry boards loose in your little girls playhouse, the smallness of it really lends itself to the close quarters.
- 103BanjeauApril 18, 2009 at 12:06 am
You forget the stud finder, and I don’t mean my wife. Every man has to hang stuff on the walls from flat screen TV’s to art, and these really help locate the supporting lumber behind the drywall. Other’s have mentioned the handyman’s secret weapons, duct tape and WD-40. By the way, WD-40 sprayed on your fishing lure will catch more fish— it’s primarily fish oil.
- 104BrownyApril 18, 2009 at 11:37 am
@ Steve Maslin “This is Rubish, If you live in a community with people you don’t need to own a tool kit per male. Living in community is a manly thing, sharing what you own etc, The art of manliness has gone down hill. Most of the blogs don’t help me one bit and are just trivial like this one."
its not very manly to mooch off your fellow man… grow up- man up- buy your own damn tools!
and too all the canadians in the house… i love the robertson screws / drivers but please stop crying about it whenever a driver is mentioned. philips- robertson- torx- nut driver- there are plenty of drivers out there know what ya need and get the appropriate tool…
- 105bonApril 24, 2009 at 3:17 am
Growing up in Tasmania we reckoned if you can’t fix it with fencing wire and/or an old stocking (use ‘em as fan belts for instance) then it couldn’t be fixed. these days you’d have to add “and a milk crate" because every tradesman in the country uses a milk crate for something.
- 106bonApril 24, 2009 at 3:21 am
about made in china tools etc. i agree with Ben that even when they’re “made to spec" etc. they ain’t as good. i get most of my tools from the “trash & treasure" “car-boot" junk sales – there I can find genuine Made in Germany/Australia/Sweden/USA/England quality tools . . . damn good they are too.
- 107W ShepherdMay 25, 2009 at 11:00 pm
- Am reviewing the ’10 essential tools’ list in May and had to go back to mid -February to find any mention of safety goggles/specs – these are well recognised as ‘Basic’ by experienced DIYers- and may perhaps be even MORE important for the in-experienced to avoid dust+grit -and chemical splashes.
-I think perhaps you should seriously consider re-vamping the list as the ’20 essential tools’ as most of the comments on omissions are extremely valid.
- 108label applicatorJune 22, 2009 at 2:10 am
The Avery Dennison line of labelers allows for a wide variety of different applications. Speeds of 30 meters (ALS206) or 40 meters per minute (ALS204) are standard but much higher speed models can be selected.
http://www.accentpack.com/products.htm?cat=11- 109Randy TJune 25, 2009 at 6:10 pm
WD 40 is an oily solvent. Pretty good for cleaning if an oily residue is OK. Its a poor lubricant unless you want an extremely light lubricant….like clock mechanism light. If you need lubricatiion then 3 n1 or a teflon lube is far superior to WD 40.
- 110Mark TJune 26, 2009 at 7:27 pm
Find the best Selection on Tool cases, Rolling Tool Cases, Tool Chest, Rolling Cabinets, Tool Boxes, Hard Shell Cases and Metal Tool Storage at http://www.alltimetools.com
- 111HowardJuly 6, 2009 at 12:32 pm
As long as you’re going to include a screwgun, I think the circular saw (battery powered or not) deserves a mention. A handsaw has its undeniable uses, but hard work can be made a bit easier with a circular saw, which can go against or with the grain of the wood.
- 112Ed FJuly 9, 2009 at 10:53 pm
The tool selection is right on. Now let me add a suggestion.
- Multi-tool. This baby doesn’t belong in the tool box, it belongs on your hip or in your pocket! (The problem with tool boxes is that they are a bit awkward and are not often there when you need them.)
I personally carry a Gerber 400 needle nose every day. (Just an example-I don’t want to get involved in the Gerber/Leatherman/other discussion) I carry it in a belt holster, except dress up times, then it goes in a pocket. (FYI It has gone through several metal detectors successfully. Even though it has a knife blade, it still looks like a tool.) I can’t think of a day that I have not used it at least once. The needle nose pliers are particularly useful for dealing with small objects. The only item I have not used for its intended purpose is the cork screw. Just a long shot, but I suspect that most Model 400 users are beer drinkers.
- 113MachinesJuly 30, 2009 at 1:05 pm
Radial drills are designed to drill a hole in a part that is too big to fit on a regular drill press. Radial drills have size designations that incorporate the arm length and the column diameter. The arm length of a radial drill typically ranges from about 2′ to 12′ or more. The arm measurement is not the arm length (even though it is called that), it is actually the distance from the face of the column to the center line of the spindle when the head is all the way out to the end of the arm. This means, a 6′ radial drill can drill a hole in the center of a 12′ diameter part.
- 114Old Car BuffAugust 4, 2009 at 8:26 pm
Look at your local farmer’s market or flea market for vintage tools. At least here in the midwest, the farmer’s markets that I hit always have someone selling reconditioned tools. The local guy will also rehalf your hammer, maul, hoes, shovels, etc for a VERY resonable price. Drop it off one Saturday, pick it up the next.
- 115senatorrosewaterAugust 9, 2009 at 7:18 pm
Channel Locks.
Invaluable.
- 116ejsilver26August 16, 2009 at 12:11 am
I have pretty much all of the tools listed in the article and the subsequant comments. I keep a fairly stocked toolkit and tool bench. I use foldking tool benches due to space limitations and portability, and have a small tool belt. However, with all that I have, I must say that the worst tool I ever had was my Cordless drill. It was an 18-volt, variable speed, wonder to look at and a marvel to hold.. untill the batteries died. I could buy a brand new drill for the same price. Forget it. I got a realy nice corded drill with a case of bits to be reconded with for less than the cordless model. More power, longer lasting and it’s even a “hammer drill".
I’d say, if you were going to start from scratch an buy a set of tools, go for all the items in the list and the comments, except get a chorded drill. Go get the best you can afford and only buy what you need for the job you’re doing. Next time, get some more tools for the next job. After a while, you’ll only need a few here and there and the ones that you have will last forever.
(Except screwdrivers… buy lots and medium quality… keep them everywhere… for later, “You’re welcome")
Eli
- 117NikAugust 23, 2009 at 7:17 pm
Just read through the article and all the comments.
The “Robertson" discussion interested me the most. In America, at least, pretty much anything requiring a hand screwdriver is going to be Phillips and occasionally flat-head. However, if you’re driving screws into lumber (probably 2.5″ or longer), you can’t do better than with square-drive (what I’ve always heard them called). So, yeah, you should have square-drive/Robertson drill bits, but in America at least, getting a regular old Robertson screwdriver would be a waste.
- 118elenaOctober 3, 2009 at 4:56 pm
SAFETY GLASSES! holy moly! sure, these aren’t technically a tool, but they are definitely essential.
- 119ReedNovember 3, 2009 at 10:20 pm
If you get a ‘standard’ vice grip, be sure to pick up a needle-nose version as well. That tool has saved me countless times. Great for unscrewing stripped screws and pulling carpet staples, etc.
- 120DavidDecember 15, 2009 at 1:17 am
I’m 24 and have been working for Sears (tools department) since I was 16. I have been collecting my tool arsenal since then and I have had all those tools way before the time I was 18. It’s sad that most young men my age don’t have the basics. Most of my friends still don’t have a decent screwdriver!
My suggestion is what about the standard rubber mallet? This tool has been one of the most used in my toolbox especially when I have to assemble things that require me not to scratch/mar a surface.
- 121CDecember 16, 2009 at 5:45 pm
I am a 15 year old girl and keep at least half that list either in my purse or on my bedside table.
- 122DougDecember 21, 2009 at 10:45 pm
I can’t imagine any woodworking or tile projects where a simple framing square or speed square or tri-square wouldn’t be necessary.
- 123greg hJanuary 29, 2010 at 4:24 pm
speed square
- 124DanielFebruary 19, 2010 at 6:59 am
Excellent list. Great idea about the first aid kit, and I’d like to reiterate about having a multimeter – it’s fantastic for many things. In the past few days, I’ve used it on two family members’ cars to diagnose various stuff (is the alternator charging the battery?)
Other than that, perhaps a portable 12v light… the kind that’s just a flourescent tube inside a clear plastic tube which has a hook on one end for hanging, and both a car cigarette lighter plug and alligator clips for directly hooking onto a battery.
Also having a head lamp (like cyclists wear) has been absolutely wonderful. Hands-free light wherever you look. Otherwise, if you wear a baseball cap, there are small ones to clip onto the brim. Make sure you choose a light with both red and white LEDs that you can switch between. Red light is great for use at night if you are a passenger in a car, going hunting, or otherwise need to keep your night vision ability working without waiting several minutes after using a white light.
Sunscreen – I live in Australia, so it’s critical here. You never know when you get a call from a gorgeous neighbour who needs something fixed and pronto – you won’t be thinking of your skin when you race out the door with your tool box in hand. You can smear it on if working outdoors, and even offer her some if she’s helping. I’ve helped women before and they’ve been very impressed that I’m prepared, I walk onto the scene, take charge of it and get it done – all while being efficient and safe. Even just checking the brake lights if you are hauling their trailer somewhere is enough to impress (seriously, this made one woman visibly hot under the collar for some reason! Hehehe).
Oh, and RAGS!!! Old t-shirts, towels, etc. Something to wipe your hands on, something to wipe a dip stick on, something to mop up small spills, etc.
- 125MikeMarch 2, 2010 at 10:15 pm
When it comes to utility knives and blades, I would go with stanley.
The blades are thick and the “steel" knives can take a beating.
DO NOT buy cheap blades!
I even have a few of those cheap plastic utility knives with the snap off blades. Ok for light work.A 3/8″ socket wrench is an overall good bet. Buy the 3/8″ first.
If you have the cash, get a 1/4″ and a 1/2″ as well.
Do not use a 1/4″ on anything that requires alot of strength. Even the best 1/4″ socket wrenches shaft can twist off.
1/2″ for the more heavy duty car bolts.6″ pair diagonal cutters.
6″ pair plyers.
6″ pair needle nosePair of lineman plyers. Not a must have.
Don’t forget superglue along with the duct tape.
A good brand of super glue is loctite. Keep it in the fridge.Wood glue.
Small bag of wood golf tees for repairing striped out screw holes.
Zip ties, never know when you may need one to keep somethig in place temporarily.
Small medium ball peen hammer has many uses. Not a must have.
One of those flat prybars. In most cases, they can easily be fit into a toolbox.
Hacksaw and extra blades. Easy to collapse the saw without blade and the blades theselves take tille room. Not a must have.
A good heavy duty canvas tool bag is a must have. They hold a good deal of tools and tend to be easier to carry.
Not for the toolbox:
Heatgun for heat shrink tubing, removal of window glazing etc.Most of what I own is Stanley, except for my tourqe wrench which happens to be a Craftsman.
You can never go wrong by buying Stanley or Craftsman.I have a smaller metal toolbox that holds my socket wrenches and ratchets.
That goes into a large plastic toolbox that holds the rest of my tools.
Heavy, but easy to keep the tools seperated.
I also have a medium sized Stanley bag that I use when I know that I will not need my socket wrenches and ratchets.Daniel “Oh, and RAGS!!!" I could not agree more. Especially if you are working on an automoblie.
Oh, speaking of automobiles, a 5 quart drip pan for oil changes, radiator flushes, brake bleeding, transmission fluid changes etc. Not for a tollbox of course.
The most imoprtant are safety equipement and commom sense.
Put anything in your toolbox only if it makes sense to you.
If you will never use it, your toolboxe does not need it.- 126SeanMarch 9, 2010 at 5:00 am
I noticed an earlier poster mentioned that a wooden handled hammer will offer the best shock relief over time. This is true, and why Vaughn still makes their California framing hammer with one, but most wooden handle hammers nowadays are garbage.
The one thing I would add to the list is a decent combination square.
- 127FloraApril 18, 2010 at 4:03 am
Let’s not forget – women like a man with a full tool box, who’s good with his hands and keeps his tools in good, clean working order x
- 128AlanMay 1, 2010 at 2:50 am
As a writer, my primary tool is a keyboard… However one tool which has only had a single mention, is awesome…
The Angle Grinder.
Nothing, but nothing, resists this bad boy.
Wood, any metal, concrete, it cuts like butter.
I once spent 2 days and 5 blades trying to saw off a fiberglass boat roof. Finally bought an angle grinder and it ripped through that sucker in 20 minutes.
Got a bolt too long? Something sticking out where it shouldn’t? Excessive sanding to do? You’ll be amazed how often you’ll be reaching for an angle grinder once you have one, On top of which, they’re dirt cheap. Just remember eye protection.
Seriously, you aint a man till you have your own ANGLE GRINDER!
- 129EdwardMay 1, 2010 at 6:24 am
Need a chainsaw.
- 130DougMay 1, 2010 at 7:20 am
I liked Chris’s suggestion about duct tape and WD40. Reminds me of a time I was describing the emergency kit in my car (jumper cables, flashlight, etc.). A woman then told me: “My emergency kit consists of a cellphone and an Auto Club card." I couldn’t argue with that.
- 131MattMay 1, 2010 at 9:15 am
Allan wrenches, set of standard and metric, think IKEA furniture.
- 132Brian SMay 1, 2010 at 9:37 am
Agree with the Allen Key set(s) and the hacksaw. As to what type of toolbox you want to tote all of those around in…your basic criteria are: enough volume to hold your basic toolset, enough internal divisions for a minimal level of organization, and it ought to be strong enough to stand on, if necessary. With 4 socket sets, 3 driver sets, 3 wrench sets, and specialty automotive, electrical, bicycle, AND woodworking tools; I’m ready to move up to a cabinet in the near future. I just went out to the garage and I’ve got ten separate tool boxes. Plus the drill, circular saw, jigsaw and grinder that each have their own cases. I might also mention that this collection was in part inherited from my Wife’s Grandfather, and those parts of the collection I obtained myself were purchased over the past 25 years. I look forward to passing on my tools to my son…and helping him start his own collection.
- 133dougMay 1, 2010 at 10:02 am
interesting lists here.
1. don’t buy a battery operated flashlight, get the crank type led ones. you will never be in the crawl space with dead batteries. about $12.
2. claw vs framing hammer? go with the framing. and remember when pulling nails that you get more leverage when you pull “sideways" . when you pull inline with the claw the fulcrum point is the center of the handle and the nail is about 1-1/4 away so the leverage with a say 12″ handle is 12/ 1.25 or 9.6 to one. when you pull sideways the fulcrum is the edge of the head so the nail is about a 1/2 inch from the fulcrum point so with the same 12″ handle your factor is 12/.5 or 24 to one.
3. can’t beat pipe wrenches, and you can not beat having a small one too. I have a 4″ one that is the “cat’s meow " when you shear off the head of a rusted bolt, if a 1/4″ of the bolt is left that little baby will grab and back it out.
- 134william BorgstromMay 1, 2010 at 10:43 am
Go to the PAWN SHOP FIRST. Tools galore–usually cheap-
- 135BBinKCMay 1, 2010 at 11:00 am
Good list. Instead of a toolbox I prefer a tool bucket. Just a 5 gallon pail with one of those bucket organizers. Everything is out and handy in the pockets around the outside and I can drop my cordless drill and other stuff for a project in the bucket.
One really handy item I have in my bucket is a folding handsaw made by Stanley. It uses Sawzall interchangeable blades and has a place to store them in the handle. It’s far more useful than a hacksaw and only costs about $10 plus a variety pack of blades.http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-15-333-8-Inch-Folding-Pocket/dp/B00002X21U/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1272725955&sr=1-6
Costco has the Crescent 211 piece toolset for $100 (in store not on their website). It’s this one http://www.amazon.com/Crescent-211-Piece-Tool-Set/dp/B002YEH47M. Add a hammer,saw,level, tape measure, and a drill and you’ll be ready to take on a lifetime of projects. You’ll never be intimidated by the words,"some assembly required" again.
- 136johnMay 1, 2010 at 11:44 am
A couple of additions: Get a set of metric sockets to go with your socket wrench if you intend to work on any imported car.
Get a wire-stripper if you intend to replace the occasional wall-switch.
Buy screw-drivers, both flat-bladed or Phillips, in sets with various sizes. Nothing assures ruined screw-heads like incorrect driver sizes.
Last, get a small bench vice for your basement or garage work bench.
Maker sure at least one of you pliers incorporates a wire-cutter.
- 137BigJohnMay 1, 2010 at 12:18 pm
I can’t believe what I am reading here about Craftsman tools. They were once a standard for quality, that is no longer true.
When they moved production to China, they also cheapened up on the metallurgy and heat treat. The result?
Ratchets used to be virtually unbreakable, truly lifetime tools. Now, Craftsman ratchets are no better than the Walmart knock-offs. What good is a lifetime warranty if you have to keep taking them back, only to get another inferior one? When I bought my last set and started having to take them back, the counter person would just drop the ratchet into an overflowing box of them under the counter and tell me to go get another one off the shelf. It’s just not worth it.
Craftsman screwdrivers are another example. They used to be the best you could get for daily use. When they moved production to China, again they cheapened up the metallurgy and heat treatment. The excellent design of the handle with the ball on the end was developed for the best ergonomic application of force with the best chance of preventing blisters on the palm. Unfortunately, Craftsman screwdrivers with this feature are total junk. The first time you try to tighten or loosen a stuck screw, the flathead screwdriver will literally twist at the end. The phillips screwdrivers are even worse. Once a phillips driver is ruined, it will thereafter slip in every screw it touches, ruining the screw so that even a quality driver won’t work. Craftsman sells stronger screwdrivers for more money, but not with the good handles on them. Once I even turned the handle down in a lathe to put the ball on the end after getting blisters.
Craftsman is a brand that was ruined by cubicle-dwelling corporate empty suits. The chinese products at Harbor Freight are better than Craftsman (Chinese manufacturers are bringing their quality up).
Always buy Crescent brand Crescent wrenches, Vise-Grip brand vise grips, and ChannelLock brand slip joint pliers. Anything else is almost guaranteed to be made of inferior steel, with geometry designed by someone that never uses tools. Like the guy who wrote the article. He doesn’t make a living using tools, that is obvious.
- 138JCroweMay 1, 2010 at 12:33 pm
A couple of things in response to previous posts. WD-40 was originated as a water displacement formula, hence the WD…..if you are looking for the best penetrating oil, have a look at Kroil, the oil that creeps. It’s a great penetrating oil and good for cleaning gun barrels. On tool quality, my experience with Chinese made tools has been pretty dismal, but I have a friend who only buys them because he loses stuff so rapidly. For my money, have a look at Snap-on….very pricy and very well made. My philosophy on tool buying is to buy for life so I am currently buying Festool power tools. They will last longer than my body hopefully. That said, I still have my original Craftsman tools from the early 70s and some from the early 90s. I can’t speak for more modern stuff. Avoid the big box stores unless you want a choice between different brands of Chinese made tools. There are some good sources of other than Chinese made hand tools like Lee Valley out of Canada. Fun article.
- 139kalidasMay 1, 2010 at 1:02 pm
First of all, a sink wrench. Though you might not need it often, it is very very handy.
I worked maint. for 30 years and rarely was seen without one of my personal favorites, the small Channellock. The # 412 ( 6.5″). Those baby’s are great, and if you have either the # 463 or # 483 as a companion, you’re one bad hombre.
Also, a tiger saw is perhaps the king of “luxury" tools.- 140J.B.May 1, 2010 at 3:26 pm
Save yourself money and space by buying a Greenlee or Kline all in one screwdriver, square driver, nut drivers. They have models that are hardened bits and you’ll have 1/4″, 5/16″, and 3/8″ nutdrivers, a #1 and #2 flat and phillips bits along with a #1 and 2 square bit. in the same space it takes to hold one screwdriver. I’d stay as far away from Craftsman battery powered drill/drivers as possible. There are good ones out there but that’s not the brand. The now have sorry gears(just saw a new one last less than six months). When you buy screws these days, almost anything you want comes in dual drive for using phillips or square drivers on. I prefer them to everything on the market. Nothing beats a square driver. Safety knives, get a folding knife like the Shefields that have much sharper blades than the old Stanley type. Keep a look out for a set of battery powered tools. I often see good buys on good brands of these that come with a rotary saw, reciprocating saw, drill/driver with or without hammer feature with built in level, impact driver, and light, all using the same batteries, generally 2-3 to a set. I don’t often remove my screw holder from my drill since it will allow you to drive 6″ screws without needing to hold them. I keep a1/4″ hexX3/8″ square drive converter to run in hex bolts and screws with my driver. Keep a tri-square(some are aluminum one piece and very inexpensive or an adjustable tri-square with level. A wonderbar that you’ll use for almost everything. Grab a multi-allen wrench set in standard and metric. I keep cheap ones I buy at Harbor-Freight for non-professional jobs and professional models for well, professional work. One tool I’d hate to be without that can do what no other tool can do is a Dremel tool. Too many uses to name. For those who drive a pick-up, remember, a good tool box or two can turn that vehicle into a rolling workshop. I could literally rebuild my engine on the side of the road if I had to. I keep a puller in my pickup that will take off everything from the steering wheel to the harmonic balancer. I always have a coffee can full of this and that, nuts, bolts screws that I can take the bottom out, cut down the side and use that and a 4″ hose clamp for a piston installer. I can remove the knick knack holders on either side of the seat in the ext. cab and have room under them for spare belts, electrical fastener and fuse kits, and just about anything else that isn’t heavy so it won’t dent the metal from the inside out although my GM pickup has a heavy rubberized insulation that keeps that from happening. Look around on your vehicle and you’ll probably find there are all sort of dead spaces in your console and rear compartments. When buying needlenose pliers, get some from an electrical supply and they even have #12 gauge wire strippers in them. Get a good pair of diagonal cutters, again, from an electrical supply and they’ll cut most anything including pulling nails and screws. Throw in one of those tool kits with sockets of both types, end wrenches, pliers and screwdrivers and whatever else might be in them and you’re never without tools. You can move them from one vehicle to another. My wife depends on these things as we live in a very rural area and you can’t count on someone coming down the road to help. A good .45 ACP is another tool that’s good to have in the console. I keep a 400 watt inverter in what ever vehicle I’m driving so I can operate practically any power tool. Magnetic torpedo levels are cheap and accurate and life-savers in a small package. I have found the new armored tape measures last longer and are easier to hold. Before cellphones, my wife was late and I was about to go looking for her when she drove in. She’d had a blowout on a front tire doing about 80 and went off into a pasture, miraculously avoiding hitting a tree or rock or hole. She said she’d would have still been there had it not been for the 4 way lug wrench I throw into every vehicle. It allowed her to hold on end and stomp on the other to break loose over-tightened lug nuts. It was a new car to her or that wouldn’t have happened since I use pure nickel anti-seize on exposed lug nuts and install them with a torque wrench. I use cap nuts on my pickups. Since I’ve been speaking of vehicles, I want everyone to know that there are new styles of batteries that do not cause corrosion on the cable, battery connection. Last year I replace a set of Optima spiral wound batteries on my diesel pickup that were 8 years old and one was still good. I never had to clean the connections since they don’t corrode. I also buy batteries with top and side posts so using jumper cables is an easy chore. Don’t buy jumper cables. Make your own. You can find insulated replacement ends for just this purpose. Use #4 or better yet #2 welding lead wire(very flexible and will last your lifetime). Use welding terminals to attach them to the ends and you can have as long a cable as you need. I got hemmed in by a vehicle with a dead battery and vowed It would never happen again. I bought 60′ of wire to make a set of 30′ cables I can boost off a vehicle behind mine with and they’ll roll into a small space since they’re made of very flexible wire. Just keep one thing in mind. When you see an exceptional price on a good tool you don’t have but have needed, buy it, you won’t regret it and tools are always good barter.
- 141Lewis R.May 1, 2010 at 4:42 pm
Glock 17. The only tool you will ever REALLY miss if you go without.
- 142Joe BobMay 1, 2010 at 8:39 pm
Hey all peeps, this is a great article on TOP TEN tools. Love the article! Yes, I have my next 5-10 fav tools – but remember, this is top ten: i.e. what I will get for my fatherless neighbor kid who keeps barrowing my tools. After the top ten, THEN we can add the next most handy tools, such as gator wrench ratchet, flatbar, wire stripers, et al.
keep up the good work
Joe Bob
- 143Eugene "A manly man"May 1, 2010 at 8:48 pm
Real men have a ratcheting screwdriver with assorted bits, an S&K 1/4 ratchet (very fine gears), thread files, dead blow hammer, pin and punch set, wire brushes (steel and brass), and a ratcheting wrench set.
- 144Remington PhillipsMay 1, 2010 at 8:49 pm
I have found that a small prybar/crowbar is invaluable for remodeling projects around the home. From removing old tile and cabinets to replacing windows, having the leverage of a prybar is an energy saver. Not to mention saving wear on other tools which might otherwise look tempting to use for prying.
- 145glaciermanMay 2, 2010 at 12:27 am
Roll of electrical tape…a must have. 1)Obviously to fix broken wires. 2)Most importantly, to tape up deep cuts to stop bleeding, and almost eliminate the need for stitches….while you finish the project!!
- 146SmittyMay 2, 2010 at 2:25 pm
A crowbar/prybar, and Sawsall
Funny article, one of the best performing Western companies in Communist China last year was Snap On tools, one of our most EXPENSIVE brands-while they export to us junk tools. .
- 147Granny MillerMay 2, 2010 at 2:50 pm
Where’s the WD-40?
- 148Jive DadsonMay 2, 2010 at 5:04 pm
I worked at a high tech robotics company where the chief engineer, a bona fide genius and all-round good guy, called WD-40 “slow drying glue."
More tools… Diagonal pliers and a good pair of sheers.
- 149CoinMineMay 2, 2010 at 8:59 pm
This is a great list, well a start…
…for beginners, anyway.AND some very wise posts in this thread.
Please allow me to note:
Only one person mentioned a welder!! (semi-genius)
Only one person mentioned a puller!! (semi-genius)
Only one person mentioned solder !! (semi-genius)
[Solder now in the US cannot have lead. The new stuff doesn't really work]NOBODY mentioned:
Basin wrench
Tap and Die set!!!
Drill bit sharpener
Hand Drill!!! (what will you do without power, eh?)
Drill bit extender
Deburrer
Pipe cutter
Metal detector
Metal (paint) scrapers
Rasp!!
hydraulic or scissors (or both) Jack
Block, tackle and pulley OR
House jack (seriously, you may need to lift a wall, or portion thereof, to repair a foundation)…and I won’t even start on about machine shop tools.
I have been gathering up tools for about seven years now at auctions, garage sales and estate sales. (I started basic house rehab as a side project). Above are really rather basic and essential tools, nothing fancy.
Essentially, there is very little quality stuff made in north america anymore. Almost anything I have bought from Asia in the past 10 years has been absolute garbage in fancy plastic packaging and a colorful label.
Thankfully for me I live in a town where the very old military base shut down. The government workers would often steal tools, entire shops actually, and bring them home. As the old men die off their foolish heirs sell the tools at a song.
Most of these tools made in Chicago, Cleveland and Detroit in the 1920s – 1940s STILL work (though many are long worn). I literally have broken ‘tools’ recently bought at Home Depot, Harbor Freight, Sears etc upon first usage!
Some of the older tools I have I don’t know their usage, and I still can’t find anyone who knows. I have PERSONALLY witnessed, moreover, 10 different men try to repair a (semi-large) boiler made in the 1960s; nobody could fix it. Not only are decent tools getting scarce, but the *industrial knowledge base* is now fading.
Wish I had better news here. The bright side is some industrial arts co-ops are starting to form, to teach these lost crafts/arts.
Bottom line: Stock up NOW. Get prepared. Some of these tools are starting to become rare, and even basic tools of high quality are getting scarce in some series.
- 150Al SledgeMay 2, 2010 at 10:02 pm
I’ve been spoiled after collecting tools for over 40 years. The basic ones suggested are good except for the battery drill. The batteries will last maybe two years but replacement batteries are about the price of a new tool. A corded drill is better, but even better yet a corded hammer drill. Unless you use tools for a living (which you likely do not if you are reading this) but a cheap Chinese hammer drill. Then buy your extra tools as you need them. Wrenches should be quality, but the Chinese are getting better. Today I have a metal lathe, miling adapter, drill press, heavy welder and literally tons of tools. My neighbors call my house “man land", but my lady friends aso come over to use or borrow tools. I eventually bought my wife, daughters, and sons their own tools so they would stop misplacing mine!
But the best tool we have is the one between our ears.
- 151kitMay 3, 2010 at 12:53 am
For good quality made in usa or uk, germany or even japan these days, get ‘m at a flea market or garage sales.
Also, a full roll of duct tape is a good substitute for a rubber mallet.- 152LynMay 3, 2010 at 1:11 am
Well, fellas I’m a woman with a tool box and I definitely would add a sawzall., aka reciprocal saw. You can cut wood or metal with it, cut the screws with the stripped threads you can’t get out, cut holes in the wall, even prune trees with it. (There are cordless and corded models)
You manly men might prefer hand tools, but having the bulk of my strength between my ears, I prefer to let the motor do the heavy lifting. And speaking of lifting, a set of pipe clamps and pieces of pipe of various length and some ratchet straps. With the pipe clamps, the clamp pieces are bought separately; you slide them onto regular metal pipe from the plumbing section of your hardware store. These are powerful and can be used to hold pieces of wood together or apart – some types can be flipped around so they push outward instead of press inward and keep things in place until you can screw or nail it – works great to force warped wood to flatten. The ratchet straps are sold as tie downs for moving loads, and of course you’ll have to get your supplies home from the lumberyard. But they have another great function, as a gluing clamp for furniture repairs where you need strong pressure on irregularly shaped objects. For example, the other night I was lying on my old arts and crafts style sofa when I heard a crack! One of the doweled rails had popped out of the side frame. I got my carpenters glue and ratchet strap, and wrapped that puppy around the frame so that everything would pull together and dry in the right place and left it overnight. Voila! The nylon webbing didn’t harm the pretty oak finish.
Everyone should have a toolbox and know how to use it, manly or not.
- 153ErichMay 3, 2010 at 1:22 am
A plumb-bob. If you’re getting a level, you may as well have this too.
- 154DeeDeeMay 3, 2010 at 4:13 pm
Geez, what happened to the pipe wrench, tin snips, pry bar/wrecking bar and allen wrenches???
- 155KirbushMay 3, 2010 at 9:52 pm
I agree with the pipe wrench. A friend once told me, if you have to borrow a tool more than once a year, you should buy your own. Tools make a great investment. Personally my favorite tool is my backhoe.
- 156Ben GedaleciaMay 4, 2010 at 12:35 am
You can get all the tools mentioned for about 30 bucks in any of the weekend flea markets. Craftsman tools should always be bought on sight used, as they will last forever
- 157J.E.ChapmanMay 14, 2010 at 11:47 am
Those of us who own fire arms also should have a good set of hollowed growned screw drivers,my spelling may be wrong,but these screw drivers are a must when working on guns as the screws are different from your average standard screw.
- 158DougMay 16, 2010 at 5:31 pm
Disclaimer: I am spoiled – I grew up in and now I own a hardware store – I have used more tools than most people will ever see – After over 50 years using various tools for various purposes I have an advantage over all but a very small percent of the population.
That stated, the pictures in this article are with only two exceptions the worst examples of tools I can imagine. They look like used things you would find in some third world country.
Good grief! A claw hammer from a kiddie tool set? Screwdrivers so worn out you can hurt yourself? A tape measure that looks like the blade was run through a stove pipe crimper? An adjustable wrench that obviously was damaged by the use of a “cheater bar"? Needle junk pliers? Older clunky cordless drill? An assortment of obsolete utility knives?
There are literally thousands of tools in the modern world. To select only a dozen as the correct or basic set is pretty narrow thinking.
Then all the yardsale experts weigh in on when, where, what and how to buy tools…That’s real comedy!
I maintain that tools and the ability to use them are an indication of how any given society is doing. Ours is in a race to the bottom with the WD-40 & duct tape doofuses leading the way.
- 159JGAugust 3, 2010 at 3:23 pm
You need a brace and bit. this is like a cordless screwdriver, but without the battery. It uses pure manliness to bore holes.
You need a hacksaw. You may want to cut some metal.
You need a square or maybe two. I use one with the sliding metal ruler and the level vial.
You need a vise. this holds your work still. while youre at it, a set of clamps is a good investment.
You will need files, rasps, and a plane. these are for shaping wood and metal.
- 160MatthewOctober 10, 2012 at 2:15 pm
Nobody mentioned a pencil. Monumentally useful for accuracy.
- 161JeffOctober 19, 2012 at 7:35 pm
How about a pen sized flashlight when you need both hands to fix something in the dark or where light doesn’t reach.
- 162TarzanOctober 28, 2012 at 7:44 pm
Excellent list. Ear plugs and a respirator with changeable filters (for dust and fumes) is a good thing to have too. An oscillating saw is good for trim work, and a powered orbital sander will also come in handy. Cordless stuff is nice, but all it takes is a dead battery to put you behind schedule.
- 163Jim K.November 2, 2012 at 3:26 pm
Anybody have any suggestions on a good toolbox to hold all these tools? Something basic and bombproof like the old metal Craftsman toolbox my Dad has owned forever –padlocking hasp, one metal removable tray, no drawers, no plastic. i want to give my 12-year-old son his first toolbox for Christmas. Not impressed with what I’ve seen online so far.
- 164BillNovember 8, 2012 at 2:48 pm
@Jim K Just bought a Stack-On toolbox from Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Stack-On-R-420-20-Inch-General-Purpose/dp/B000I0ZX3Q/
20 in., steel construction. Best of all, still made in the USA. A bit pricier than the cheap plastic stuff but this box should hold up well.
- 165DeLeonNovember 20, 2012 at 12:18 pm
I’m shocked I haven’t seen it yet. An old (Stanley or Older) Yankee driver of the 130-A spring return ilk, with a flat, phillips, 1/4 socket, 1/2 drive tip. I still use mine almost every day. I have bigger (131) and smaller ones. I can get it in areas a cordless will get bogged down in, and never needs recharged. They are made to such a standard, you just don’e realize that most are over 50 years old. They are real pieces of quality craftmanship. You can get these at Yard Sales and/or Flea Markets for under 10 dollars, the bits harder so to find, but e-bay always has a list, and some sights have tutorials on how to make your own. Millers Falls made one for Sears which will take the same bits.
- 166MikeNovember 25, 2012 at 12:58 pm
You forgot duc-tape and WD40
- 167DanDecember 30, 2012 at 9:02 am
An often overlooked tool is the square. If you don’t want to lug around a full-sized one, they also make speed squares that are about 1/4 of the size and cost about $3. Very rarely do I work on a project in which a square doesn’t come in handy.
- 168mcJanuary 7, 2013 at 8:40 pm
16 lb sledge hammer (Council Tool) – who needs a jack hammer when you have this bad boy…
Wheelbarrow (Sterling), shovel, garden hose, bag of lime, bag of washed sand, bag of portland cement…make your own mortar; while you’re at it, you’ll need a masonry trowel and a slicker…ahh masonry, the lost art…- 169MItchFebruary 15, 2013 at 10:09 am
You can still buy the old “Yankee" type drivers here: http://www.garrettwade.com/garrettwade-push-drill/p/69P01.01/
I EDC a Leatherman CORE and an Energizer 1-watt LED (1-AA) flashlite (added a leather loop to my Leatherman pouch) EVERYWHERE except to bed or in the shower.
Gotta have cable ties / tywraps in various sizes.
A 50/50 blend of acetone and ATF (automatic transmission fluid) is the BEST penetrating solution currently known to man.
- 170LayneMarch 5, 2013 at 9:47 pm
Line Pliers. Carry mine with me every where I go. A guy can do a lot with just a pair of jimmy’s.
- 171ChrisMarch 9, 2013 at 2:37 am
WD-40 does not contain fish oil. Go to their website, here is a quote from the FAQ:
Myth: WD-40 contains fish oil.
Fact:
Consumers have told us over the years that they have caught some of the biggest fish ever after protecting their fish hooks and lures with WD-40. We believe this legend came from folks assuming that the product must contain fish oil since it appears to attract fish. Sorry Charlie®, it just ain’t so.WD-40 Company has taken steps to respect and conserve the environment, and encourages its users to do the same. While WD-40 can be used to help protect fishing equipment from rust and corrosion, WD-40 Company does not recommend using WD-40 to attract fish.
- 172KaylynnMarch 19, 2013 at 12:07 pm
It is very good! When i was looking for stuff in here for my school project i used this for it!
Thanks,
Kaylynn Billie- 173ChrisMarch 24, 2013 at 2:07 pm
All of these tools are great and essential for any workshop, but I don’t carry around a socket set and screw gun in my toolbox. They are too damn big and heavy to carry everywhere. May I suggest a list of essential tools that can be carried in one small box.
Paring down to the necessary is a very manly skill, indeed.
- 174Narin CApril 12, 2013 at 8:15 am
Really great list, I’ve got most of these tools in my box already. Nowadays, I would have to add torx bits for socket wrenches since they seem to be everywhere now. That and a quality Cordless Dremel would let you tackle any work imaginable.
- 175Jeremy HarklessApril 12, 2013 at 11:48 pm
Black & Decker, Stanley, Milwaukee, Ryobi, DeWalt, Makita, Robt. Bosch,… What about a regular carpenter’s pencil?
- 176juliaApril 13, 2013 at 4:36 pm
Great list… I’m not a guy, but I have most of that in my toolbox. Love the suggestions in the comments too! Need to work on getting the rest of it, and then hide it from my dad :)
- 177Michael S.April 25, 2013 at 3:52 pm
Everyone missed a pair of side cutters.
- 178E.A. BurtJune 4, 2013 at 9:47 pm
I’m a younger guy getting into the world and I got myself a Leatherman wave a little while ago to start off my tool collection as the flagship tool, along with a can of WD-40 and a roll of duct tape for a little ceremonial effect with a Stanley tool bag. It feels like officially entering manhood when you begin your tool collection. This list is a good help for my next targets. Thanks much Brett.
- 179MikeJune 19, 2013 at 12:23 pm
Did someone already say ‘Junior Hacksaw’? A simple inexpensive tool that can sort a lot of problems. Get the old style bent metal type you have to spring the blade into, not the ones like a scaled down standard hacksaw.
- 180EliJune 26, 2013 at 12:19 am
No hacksaw and no bastard file? C’mon!
- 181TroyJuly 4, 2013 at 8:21 pm
I keep a pair of mechanics gloves and foam knee pads in my tool kit and automobile just in case I need to change a tire. The gloves also protect my hands from my sander and helps with my grip on certain items.
- 182Chris HJuly 28, 2013 at 10:38 pm
I just bought a really nice rolling tool chest because my boxes of tools have finally got out of hand. I liked your article, but was wondering if there was any particular order to what drawer gets what tools?
Thanks!- 183AdamAugust 6, 2013 at 11:21 am
The single most valuable tool? A prybar… get enough leverage and you can rotate Earth.
- 184AdamAugust 6, 2013 at 11:23 am
Also, who needs multitools? Get yourself a badass, well made folding knife. I got myself a Cold Steel Recon 1 tanto blade that I carry with me everywhere I go. I use that for damn near everything. Hell, I use it as a little pry bar when needed.
- 185SCRRRAugust 13, 2013 at 1:10 pm
wd40, ductape, a small hand whisk broom, sharpie or carpenters pencil
- 186lightnin'September 18, 2013 at 2:22 am
bic lighter, good multitool, flashlight.
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Previous post: Every Man Needs a Man Mentor
Posted on October 16th, 2013
How to Use a Wrench | Your Ultimate Guide to Wrenches | The Art of Manliness
Toolmanship: Your Complete Guide to Wrenches
by Brett on March 5, 2013 · 83 comments
It’s been three years since the last post, but welcome back to our Toolmanship series! The goal of this series is to teach the very basics of tool use to those men who never got around to learning how to be handy when they were growing up.
In this edition, we turn our attention to wrenches (or spanners for our readers who use British English). They’re an essential tool to have in your toolbox and are used to tighten and loosen nuts, bolts, screws, and pipes. Below we’ll take a look at the most common kinds of wrenches and how to use them.
General Wrench Use Guidelines
Select the right wrench size for the job. To avoid damaging your fastener or yourself, always select a wrench jaw size that corresponds to the fastener you’re tightening or loosening. Also, make sure your wrench’s jaw is in complete contact with the fastener before applying pressure. These two things will go a long way in preventing your wrench from slipping and you swearing about a bruised knuckle.
When using a wrench, it’s best to pull (see left image). If you do need to push, use the heel of your hand. That way if the wrench slips, you won’t bark a knuckle.
Pull, don’t push. When using a wrench, you typically want to position yourself so that you pull it instead of push it. This ensures you don’t bark a knuckle whenever the wrench slips off the fastener. If you do need to push a wrench, use the heel of your hand, that way if the wrench slips, you won’t hurt yourself.
Don’t use a “cheater bar" to gain more leverage. You risk damaging the tool or injuring yourself. If you need more leverage, get a longer wrench.
Don’t add more leverage with pipe. You may have seen your dad put a longer piece of pipe over his wrench to gain more leverage when tightening a fastener. You should avoid using “cheater bars" for several reasons. First, they can damage your wrench by bending the handle or jacking up the head. Second, because of the added torque you get with the extra leverage, you risk rounding your fastener if you don’t have the right wrench head for the job. Finally, there’s a chance the cheater bar will slip off the wrench’s handle while you’re turning, causing harm to you or others. If you need more leverage, use a longer wrench. If you have a particularly stubborn fastener, apply some penetrating oil (like Liquid Wrench) to the thread, wait a few minutes, and then try loosening.
Don’t hit a wrench with a hammer. Unless you have a special “strike face" wrench that’s designed for being hit with an object, don’t take a hammer to your wrench in order to get more power to turn a stubborn fastener. You risk damaging your wrench.
Don’t use a damaged wrench. If the handle is bent or the jaws look wider than they’re supposed to be, don’t use it.
Buy quality wrenches. Good wrenches last longer; cheap wrenches slip more easily. Personally, I’m a Craftsman fan. They’ve got a lifetime warranty on all their hand tools. If a wrench ever bends or breaks, you can take into a Sears or Ace and they’ll replace it for free, no questions asked (some sales associates might give you guff). I don’t have any affiliation with Craftsman whatsoever — it’s just what I use.
Types of Wrenches and How to Use Them
Adjustable Wrench aka “Crescent Wrench"
This should be your first wrench you buy if you’re just starting your tool collection — one big and one small. An adjustable wrench has one fixed jaw and one adjustable jaw which allows you to use it on a wide variety of fastener sizes. The jaws are typically smooth and flat and designed for gripping square and hex nuts. The head of a crescent wrench is usually angled at 22 1/2 degrees to the handle so that the wrench can be flipped over to provide two different gripping positions in tight spaces.
How to Use a Crescent Wrench
While a crescent wrench is designed so that you can apply pressure on both the fixed and movable jaws, ideally the bulk of your work should be done so that pressure is only applied on the stronger, fixed jaw. Too much pressure on the weaker, adjustable jaw can cause the wrench to break and you to bark a knuckle. When placing the wrench on your nut, the adjustable jaw should be located on the side towards which the rotation is to be performed. This puts the pressure on the fixed jaw. Below is a nice little illustration showcasing this method:
Also, when you place your crescent on a bolt or nut, make sure the adjustable jaw is snugly adjusted to the nut or bolt in order to prevent the wrench from slipping and rounding the nut or bolt.
Open Wrench
An open wrench is a nonadjustable wrench that comes in a variety of sizes. You usually buy them in sets (in both metric and standard SAE sizes), though you can buy them individually if you want. There are a few advantages that open wrenches offer over adjustable wrenches. First, because both jaws are fixed, you don’t have to worry about breaking an adjustable jaw. Second, they’re really handy to have when you’re tightening and loosening a bunch of nuts and bolts of the same size because you don’t have to readjust anything whenever you put wrench to bolt. Makes tightening and loosening much faster than with an adjustable wrench.
How to Use an Open Wrench
Select the right size open wrench for the nut or bolt you’re loosening or tightening. Reposition the wrench on the fastener after each turn.
Box Wrench
A box wrench has an enclosed opening that looks like a ring. The enclosed opening minimizes the risk of damaging your fastener. This kind of wench is typically used on heavy-duty jobs. Box wrenches usually have a six-point or twelve-point recess and are best used on hex-head fasteners. The twelve-point recess allows you to change the position of the wrench on the nut with only a small handle movement. Some box wrenches have an offset handle which allows for knuckle clearance over obstructions on a flat surface. You’ll also find box wrenches with a ratcheting mechanism which allows for more efficient tightening and loosening.
How to Use a Box Wrench
Not much to it. Select the right size opening for the nut or bolt and start tightening or loosening. Reposition the wrench on the fastener after each turn.
Combination Wrench
You’ll typically find open and box wrenches on the same tool in the form of a combination wrench. One end will be the open-end wrench; the other end is the box wrench. Both ends generally fit the same size nut and bolt.
Socket Wrench
When you’ve got a lot of fastening to do, it’s time to put aside the crescent or open-end wrench and reach for their more efficient brother, the socket wrench. A socket wrench is a hand tool that has a ratcheting mechanism on the head which attaches to various size sockets via a square nub. You can buy sets of sockets that fit every conceivable fastener size (metric and SAE). If you’re just starting your tool collection, buy a socket wrench with a 3/8-inch-square driving mechanism and a socket set with mostly six-point hex sockets — the twelve-point variety can damage nuts and bolts if you apply too much torque.
The biggest benefit of a socket wrench is the ratcheting device. The ratchet device holds in place when you pull in one direction and releases when pulled in the opposite direction. This allows you to quickly tighten a fastener without having to remove and refit the wrench after each and every turn.
The long ratchet handle provides you some nice leverage so you can get plenty of torque to loosen and tighten a bolt or nut. If you need less torque, use a nut driver (see below).
How to Use a Socket Wrench
Make sure to get the right size socket for your fastener. Because a socket wrench provides so much torque, it’s easy to round-off a nut or bolt if it isn’t the right size.
Nut Driver
A nut driver looks sort of like a screwdriver, but has a socket wrench on the end. They’re typically used when less torque is needed when tightening or loosening a nut or bolt.
Allen Wrench (aka Hex Key)
You’ve probably gathered a nice collection of allen wrenches if you’ve bought furniture from IKEA. They’re those small little hockey stick looking things that come with all the hardware for your bookcase. Allen wrenches are used on screws and bolts with a hexagonal socket in the head. You can buy a set of allen wrenches in a variety of sizes to match any job you may encounter. My set of allen wrenches has come in handy more than I thought it would. I’ve used them to change out rollerblade wheels for Kate and on a bunch of projects for Gus.
Pipe Wrench
Pipe wrenches are used to tighten and loosen threaded pipes as well as for killing unsuspecting socialites in a spooky mansion’s conservatory. A pipe wrench is an adjustable wrench — the top jaw moves up or down — and has toothed jaws for gripping onto pipe. The jaws on a pipe wrench are designed so that the top jaw (aka the hook jaw) rocks a little bit in the frame of the wrench. Whenever you apply forward pressure on the handle, the top and bottom jaws come closer together.
Pipe wrenches come in different sizes and are measured by the length of the handle. A 14″ pipe wrench will suffice for most household plumbing work. RIDGID is known for their quality pipe wrenches.
How to Use a Pipe Wrench
Choose the appropriate size wrench for your job. When placing a pipe wrench on the pipe, you want to maintain a small gap between the pipe and the back of the hook jaw. Allowing the back of the hook jaw to come into contact with the pipe reduces the gripping action of the wrench. A one-half-inch gap between the pipe and the back of the hook jaw will do the trick.
Because of its teeth and strong grip, pipe wrenches can leave marks in whatever you’re tightening or loosening, so don’t use a pipe wrench on your nice plumbing fixtures. Save them for when you’re working under the sink. Also, you shouldn’t use a pipe wrench on nuts and bolts. You’ll damage the fastener.
A Wrench Set That Will Cover Pretty Much All Your Needs
If you’re looking for a wrench set that will cover most of your needs, you can’t go wrong with the Craftsman 154-piece Mechanics Set. My in-laws got me this for Christmas the year we bought our house. It’s a giant, amazing box filled with every conceivable socket you’ll ever need (in both metric and SAE sizes), ratchets in 1/4, 1/2, and 3/8-inch drive sizes, 12 combination wrenches, 21 nut driver bits, and 22 allen wrenches.
This is a great Christmas, groomsman, of housewarming gift for a young man.
Further Reading:
Toolmanship: Screwdriver
Toolmanship: Handsaw
Toolmanship: Hammer
{ 83 comments… read them below or add one }
- 1allswaggaMarch 5, 2013 at 9:54 pm
Solid article! — Rule of thumb never buy cheap tools.
- 2Nick P.March 5, 2013 at 10:03 pm
Brett, I am happy to see the return of this series! It is amazing how many younger guys are not fortunate enough to grow up in an environment that allows them to learn about tools and how to fix things. The amount of money I have saved through doing some of my own car repairs, maintenance, and around the house stuff is amazing. The best part is the feeling of manly satisfaction that comes from using a great tool to do something with your own hands.
- 3JudeMarch 5, 2013 at 10:25 pm
No mention of torque wrenches! I appreciated reading this, I recently built a wrench collection organically without putting much particular thought into it, which is probably how most people get their tools. If I don’t have the appropriate tool, I’ll get one (or if it’s a one-time thing I’ll come up with something else).
- 4JacobMarch 5, 2013 at 10:43 pm
damn good article. much appreciated as i’m a big fan of the crescent wrench, not only for its usefulness, but also because my hometown is their hometown, too!
- 5ChattyMattyMarch 5, 2013 at 11:50 pm
Unless you’re working with 4-sided nuts, a crescent wrench’s only REAL use is as a last ditch self-defense weapon-the bigger the better. If you need a certain size wrench once, buy it, you WILL need it again someday.
- 6PedroMarch 6, 2013 at 2:40 am
It’s worth mentioning that Craftsman hand tools don’t have a lifetime warranty, they have a FOREVER warranty, as in, no need for proof or purchase, if it says Craftsman on it, and it breaks, return it and you get a new one. If you find a broken Craftsman wrench in your Grandpa’s attic or at a yard sale, you can send it in for free replacement.
Power tools and some special /precision tools have a different warranty, but all your standard tools (wrenches, screwdrivers, hammers, etc) are covered. That alone put them miles ahead of other brands in my book.- 7DanoMarch 6, 2013 at 6:16 am
a rule of not using a cheater bar or pipe is absurd. if you’ve ever worked on a car in a region where it snows, there will be nuts and bolts that will come off no other way. buying a 36″ long wrench for one bolt or nut is just asinine. Perhaps you should cover how to safetly and properly use a torque enhancing addition instead of just saying “never".
- 8simonbMarch 6, 2013 at 6:23 am
Good article. I grew in a single parent family where money was sometimes tight, fixing things yourself was par for the course. It did lead to self-learning a good set of practical skills, such as learning how to use tools by building my own bicycle from a couple of old ones and a box of parts given by a neighbour. Still good to tune up those skills by reading something like this.
- 9PatrickMarch 6, 2013 at 6:34 am
I’d love to see you strip a car down without going for a breaker bar at least once!!
- 10ChrisMarch 6, 2013 at 7:14 am
Slight word of warning about the Craftsman tool return policy – not ALL of their hand tools are elligible for the free replacement. My wife wanted a set of screwdrivers for her craft toolbox, so I was looking at some Craftsman with “ergonomic" (read cushy) handles. In vers small print on the card it mentioned that these had a limited warranty. She wound up getting the plain handled drivers with the lifetime warranty. Read the fine print!
- 11Ray CorkranMarch 6, 2013 at 7:20 am
Growing up I was always wrenching on something, pedal bikes, dirt bikes, neighbors go-karts then onto old Jeeps and Air-cooled VW’s. Taking it for granted that everyone knows how to use basic hand tools and some specialty ones. Older and wiser (did I really just say that?) I realize that not everyone had a mechanically handy roll model in their life, such as a father, cool uncle or neighbor to watch and learn from. While this article is basic for many, it’s enlightening to many more… Well done!
- 12KevinMarch 6, 2013 at 7:24 am
Love reading these types of articles but besides the rule of never using a “cheater" bar, I have one disagreement I feel even more vehemently about. And that is to buy an adjustable or Crescent wrench first. While these are fine for small, around-the-house jobs, they should never be used on anything that requires any amount of torque and they should never be relied upon as a first choice for anything. I have actually thrown them away after seeing people using them for the wrong job. The tool along with its misuse is the prime culprit in rounded nuts and bolts. Money is better spent on a basic set of combination wrenches. Skip the adjustable garbage.
- 13Dustin InksterMarch 6, 2013 at 7:49 am
I have a Craftsman set similar to the one above, and I’d recommend to anyone who owns one to make it a personal mission to keep up with all the pieces and make sure each is returned to the specific slot where it goes. If, heaven forbid, you lose a piece, immediately purchase a new one to replace it. Make keeping it in order a big priority. It will increase your confidence in your ability to handle tasks if you know that you will have everything you need where you can easily find it.
On the issue of cheater bars, I am inclined to agree that some tasks would be tough without them. Still, I would argue that going for one should only be a last resort after you have completely run out of liquid wrench, PB blaster, and WD 40, and even then, only when you are wiling to potentially sacrifice that tool.
- 14AleksMarch 6, 2013 at 7:57 am
There are things to cut costs on……..tools aren’t one of them! Great point.
It’s useful to know how to use a cheater bar, but also know when enough is enough. On the farm I’ve used breaker bars countless times but it’s always to loosen NEVER to tighten.
- 15RichMarch 6, 2013 at 8:04 am
It should be noted that “Crescent" and “Allen" are brand names that have become synonymous with the tool.
Also, an adjustable wrench – or Crescent wrench – should be your LAST tool of choice. The very nature of the adjustable jaw allows for movement and slippage. It’s a light duty tool, at best, for when the fastener doesn’t require much torque. You’re always better off with a wrench sized specifically for the fastener.- 16EricMarch 6, 2013 at 8:04 am
A caution with box-end wrenches: They can “stick" onto the bolt head, especially if you’re fudging the size a bit. I lost a part of a tooth when the wrench suddenly “let go" of the bolt when I was trying to reposition it. If you have to apply a force, think about what will happen if your force is suddenly unopposed. I was pulling a wrench directly toward my face, and shouldn’t have been surprised when it hit me in the mouth.
Another thing, some deep-well sockets in common sizes are handy. I think I’ve run into more situations where I needed a deep-well then situations where I needed to fit a socket into a smaller space.
Finally, a socket adapter for a (second-hand) bit brace is a handy add-on, as is a socket adapter for a power drill.
- 17MikeMarch 6, 2013 at 8:33 am
I was just explaining to someone this weekend about how it’s important to not buy crap tools, because if you take care of them they will last a lifetime. I have a few of my grandfathers tools, which also bare the Craftsman logo. I just wish they were still made in the US, but isn’t that everything these days.
Patrick: Craftsman sells breaker bars, theirs are okay to use!
- 18DavisDMarch 6, 2013 at 8:38 am
Craftsman tools may be a great starting point for someone who is just beginning or for very infrequent home/garage use. They are also one of the most readily available items on craigslist so save some money and don’t buy them new. Everyone has different preferences though. For myself, and perhaps any legitimate garage or industrial application the word “craftsman" doesn’t exist. This could lead to a rather in depth study but I just want beginners to be aware.
- 19NathanMarch 6, 2013 at 8:40 am
It’s always a great idea to get a breaker bar. If you have a couple of adapters then a breaker bar should serve you well in getting extra leverage you need. It sure makes changing the oil on your car a lot easier.
- 20Arlen PayneMarch 6, 2013 at 8:42 am
We recently had some young men on our property to do some light work that involved taking down a swing set. I was amazed at how many of them did NOT know how to use either a wrench or a screw driver, it was sad to watch. Now, when it came to video games, they all had it down.
I also love craftsman tools, though some of the new ones are not a dependable as the old ones. Can’t beat that warranty for sure.
- 21Justin MorkenMarch 6, 2013 at 8:54 am
Good article, but I also came to say that the ‘never’ clause for breaker bars is silly. They have their place. Go to any auto-shop and you’ll find a breaker bar in their arsenal. Some nuts will come off no other way.
- 22Wim BoereeMarch 6, 2013 at 8:55 am
Good article, enjoyed the read, though I was familiar with the wrenches before, since I fix my own bikes and restore motorcycles (as a hobby).
- 23Brett McKayMarch 6, 2013 at 9:11 am
There’s a difference between a breaker bar and cheater bar. Breaker bars are designed for sockets to loosen particularly stubborn nuts and bolts; a cheater bar is just a random pipe you put over the handle of any wrench (adjustable, socket, box) to give you extra leverage. The former is safe; the latter not so much.
- 24ArpMarch 6, 2013 at 9:36 am
ChattyMatty’s got the idea…..at work, we use a different term for the Crescent wrench – the Universal Nut Rounder! Seriously, though, it does come in handy on very large items, for example 1″ and larger pipe fittings, where you don’t want to break out the monkey wrench.
Re: cheater bars and the Craftsman warranty. Maybe you can see where this is going……..
,,,I was trying to get a smallish bolt out of a vehicle using a 20-inch long breaker bar, and Craftsman 1/2 to 3/8 drive converter. After plenty of PB Blaster, and even a few applications with the torch, I finally opted for a 3 foot long cheater bar. I sheared the drive converter in half. Went back to Sears, and got a new one, and within 5 minutes, I sheared it again. Went back the next morning and got another one. Finally, I borrowed an impact wrench from work, and got the bolt out. Yay Craftsman warranty!
- 25Matt "Hype Mann" HerrmannMarch 6, 2013 at 11:23 am
I have to agree with the rule to never buy cheap tools. Paying the extra money for a great set of tools will save so many headaches over the long run. Along with that, an 18″ breaker bar is essential in any tool box. Especially if you’re working on anything that’s lived for more than five minutes in the “rust belt."
I do have to disagree with the advice in the “cheater bar" section. Sometimes a cheater bar is a necessary evil, and I’ve had stuck bolts laugh at penetrating oil. The issue is when the nut or bolt has rusted, or the wrench is the wrong size.
How about an article on loosening rusted bolts?!
- 26Steve CMarch 6, 2013 at 11:36 am
I say 6 point box wrenches or a six point socket unless there’s a reason they cannot be used.
Open ended wrenches should only be used where it’s impossible to get a closed head on it.
- 27Jim CollinsMarch 6, 2013 at 12:01 pm
Esteemed Readers, Brett, and Kate,
A note on romance: While I was courting my wife she decided I was the guy when I welcomed her to use my tool set. Neither her father nor her first husband would have dreamed of it. She and I share a love of tools of all sorts as an expression of an esthetic value – form proceeds from function.
She looks good greasy and cleans up nice.
Jim Collins
- 28GaryMarch 6, 2013 at 12:01 pm
I think the section on pipe wrenches was a little unclear, though the illustration gets it right. You want to be sure that the back of the hook jaw does come in contact with the pipe as you apply forward pressure. As mentioned, this pressure brings the jaws closer together, effectively squeezing the pipe. If the pipe is not touching the back of the hook jaw, you run the risk of squeezing and deforming the pipe, smashing it into an oval shape. Allowing the pipe to come into contact with the back of the jaw prevents that outward pressure from damaging the round shape of your pipe.
- 29Jacob MorganMarch 6, 2013 at 12:20 pm
Agree with not buying cheap tools. The best source I’ve found for top notch tools is harryepstein.com. It is a tool store in St Louis that specializes in high quality tools, especially American made tools. The origin of each product is in the description. They also carry new old stock, closeouts, etc. They sell mail order and the couple of times I’ve bought from them it was a good experience.
Regarding cheater bars, once had to use a five foot gas pipe on the end of a 3/4″ breaker bar. It happens. Just make sure no one is in the way.
- 30Captain AmericaMarch 6, 2013 at 1:05 pm
I’m surprised these kinds of items need to be on the website.
I guess children aren’t being taught this stuff. Why not?
- 31Matthew W.March 6, 2013 at 1:09 pm
Thanks for the tip about the crescent wrench and its adjustable jaw. No one ever told me that before.
- 32ArielMarch 6, 2013 at 2:30 pm
Very useful article!
- 33Matt JohnsonMarch 6, 2013 at 2:46 pm
Are there any good American made wrench sets? I’ve been trying my best to avoid buying Chinese made products now for years.
Regards,
Matt
Minneapolis- 34Joel MMarch 6, 2013 at 3:12 pm
I know this is general tool use but I’ve heard from friends who have taught me how to work on my car that you don’t want to use adjustable wrenches because as they get older they loosen up and will round your fasteners. I prefer snap on or matco tools to craftsman.
- 35ChristopherMarch 6, 2013 at 4:14 pm
Best wrenches or spanners (Australia term) is Stahlwille better than Snap on. Used in the aerospace industries.
http://www.stahlwille.com.au/industries/apprentice-tools/Cheers!!!
- 36Pat RMarch 6, 2013 at 4:36 pm
A wise man once told me:
“You buy the tool, the job is free"It might be nice to get into the pros and cons of 12 point vs 6 point rather than go on about crescent wrenches. That being said, make sure you buy the metric crescent wrench, too ;)
One word on stuck/rusty fasteners: If it ain’t budging, don’t risk rounding it off unless you have the RIGHT tool! If I have a nut that is rusted on and I can feel it about to round off, I’ll reach for the Snap-On before the Craftsman. There is a difference, not much, but it is there.
If you have time, spray some PB Blaster (or true penetrating oil of your choice – NOT WD40) on the nut and let it sit a day or two. Spray a little more on right before you try to bust it off. A little heat doesn’t hurt, either.
When I know I’m starting a big job the next day, I’ll pull a car in and soak the nasty looking bolts in PB Blaster overnight. Makes the disassembly the next day a breeze.
- 37zev goldmanMarch 6, 2013 at 5:12 pm
I will not buy Craftsman tools anymore since they are now made predominately in China with some being made in a large number of other countries.
They are not the tools they once were and with Sears Holding Company being forecast as a strong bankruptcy candidate this year the warranty could soon be worthless.- 38PhilMarch 6, 2013 at 5:31 pm
I’d say that a kit like the one above would be about 95% of everything you need for basic maintenance on most cars.
Motorcycles throw a wrench in things (pardon the pun) by always needing one size larger wrench or socket than your kit (*any* kit – this is a universal truism) came with.To round out the kit, I would add:
1) a set of T-handle allen/hex keys – these are a LOT faster and easier to use than the L-shaped ones unless there’s no vertical clearance around the screw.
2) a set of Torx and allen/hex socket adapters. Very very handy.
3) the location of your nearest hardware store with bulk fastener bins. Great for replacing the screw you stripped out or the nut that you dropped down the drain.And as a tip for non-tool-people, the 1/4″ socket will hold all of the interchangeable screwdriver bits that come with your kit (not as tightly as you’d like, but enough to work if you’re careful and patient).
- 39PhilMarch 6, 2013 at 5:36 pm
Also: do not be tempted by cheap hand tools from Harbor Freight.
Those are the tools you buy to lend to your neighbor so they will stop borrowing tools from you.
Those are the tools that you buy because you will need to use them ONCE and do not care nor expect them to survive the use.Go shop around your local pawn shops some Saturday if you need cheap tools. Sure, they’re probably all stolen from some poor guy’s garage (my dad started engraving all of his to make getting them back from the pawn shops a lot easier), but they’re likely better quality than what HF has.
- 40dead_elvisMarch 6, 2013 at 7:09 pm
Regarding thoroughly stuck/corroded fasteners – give ‘em a shot like you’re trying to tighten them prior to applying your favorite penetrating solvent. A judicious hit with a rubber mallet on the fastener in question can help, too (in the case of screws, a whack on the end of the driver handle works wonders). If all else fails & you haven’t rounded off the head yet, it’s time to break out the heat wrench. Be judicious – you don’t want to ruin the temper of the metal; starting a fire will probably ruin your day, as well as your own temper.
- 41RickMarch 6, 2013 at 8:25 pm
Sorry to put a fly in the ointment of an otherwise nice article, but the crescent is big no-go in my book. I have 45 years experience with tools. I still have 95% of the Craftsman tool set that I purchased in 1970–many many cars, many machines, many a bruised knuckle, and happily many an expensive repair bill averted.
Rule #1: If you’re doin some serious bolt/nut turning, the Crescent wrench is the LAST wrench you should reach for. Always go box, closed-end, socket, or even pipe wrench or vice-grips before resorting to the Crescent.- 42TacMarch 6, 2013 at 9:10 pm
A couple of notes:
1) Cheater Bars are an absolute ‘last resort’, rather than a ‘never’. If you’ve ever tried to take the outer wheels off of a tractor you know that the lug nuts will laugh at even a 3/4″ Socket wrench….that’s when you sometimes have to literally jump on the 4 foot cheater bar to break them loose….but do it very carefully. For most auto uses, the cheater bar comes out because the wrong tool is being used, the user has very little forearm strength, or someone screwed up before. Case in point, you should be able to break your lug nuts loose with a T-handle lug wrench, and your drain plug with a normal-sized 6pt box end wrench (I prefer the box size…and mine’s a 15mm). Of all the nuts on a car, those should be the easiest to deal with, because they’re removed consistently, and the drain plug is lubed up very well every single time you change the oil! The screw up is when someone is either being incompetent, lazy, or enthusiastic….and they put these back on with an air hammer….and ratchet them down to an insane amount of torque. As a final note, since oil changes are the most common PM, Don’t overtighten the drain plug! Most modern cars have an aluminum oil pan, and overtightening it will possibly crack it or strip the threads….and cost you a lot more money.
2) Adjustable Wrenches are the B**tard stepchildren of the toolbox. They’re always around, and always not wanted. I find that they’re good to keep in the kitchen drawer for that one nut you need to deal with and you don’t want to go out to the garage to get the proper tool, or if you’ve got a motorcycle they’re good for the tool bag as they cover a variety of options in an emergency. Certainly you should have one around….an 8″ adjustable wrench is like a pair of 10″ channel locks (or the 16″ ones that dad always keeps in his toolbox beside the 22oz ball peen hammer just in case something needs a bit more ‘engineering’)…..sometimes you just need it, but most of the time proper tools will take its place.
- 43WillyMarch 6, 2013 at 9:29 pm
Never buy a tool you can make,
(I’m a blacksmith.)
I use a Crescent wrench for … well I can’t find the dang thing, probably gave it away.
Cheater-bars have a place in the “off " never the " on " function, as noted by another poster. Fire is my favorite tool.- 44MariusMarch 6, 2013 at 11:45 pm
Torque wrenches aren’t mentioned much in the article, but should be — especially if someone is planning to do work on a car.
I’ll note that torque wrenches from Craftsmen do not carry the normal Craftsmen warranty. Also, torque wrenches should be stored backed out to their minimum/lowest torque setting.
- 45loganMarch 7, 2013 at 2:13 am
i only use MADE IN USA tools, if you want a quality wrench DONT buy chinese made.
- 46BillDerbergMarch 7, 2013 at 8:00 am
Cheater Bar:
A longer extension of the standard ratchet wrench is called a “Breaker Bar" which is a cheater bar. Sometimes these are definitely necessary!- 47Dallas StormsMarch 7, 2013 at 8:02 am
great article, though i also use the old cheater bar from time to time, especially recently, I’ve had shops tighten lug nuts so tight that i cant get them off with my impact (325 lb-ft) unfortunately, it can round stuff off, most recently a lug nut that i had to cut off the vehicle with an angle grinder. picked one up from harbor freight for $9.99 that lasted exactly long enough to do THAT job, then quit on me, which was perfect. one note on box end and combo wrenches, if you’ve got a nut or bolt that is tight, go for six pt. rather than 12 pt. 12 pt. is really good for rounding off heads. as for penetrants, skip the PB blaster and WD-40, and order some Aero-Kroil from amazon or Kano labs. I got some from Rolls Royce, here in Indy and it is hands down the best penetrant I have ever used. smells though, like the stuff they used to pour on vomit in elementary school to dry it up. Happy wrenching!
- 48MattMarch 7, 2013 at 8:29 am
One of the first things I learned about my first two big and small adjustable wrenches, while convenient, is that they can be very sloppy. They will round off nuts if used improperly or for prolonged periods of time, due to their propensity to slip. This can result in bloody knuckles. A six-point box end is always the best choice for safety if the situation allows it, usually eliminates any chance of stripped nuts.
Also, the round end of the ratchet wrench is not a hammer.
- 49HjalmarMarch 7, 2013 at 8:59 am
Marius is right. Get a torque wrench. Tighten by the numbers. Add thread-locker to ensure grip stability. My preference is blue Loc-Tite.
Do it right. Do it once.
- 50Phillip the BruceMarch 7, 2013 at 9:56 am
If one is on a very limited budget, the adjustable wrench will work on both metric and SAE (‘murrican) sizes.
Fine for light duty if used with caution – i.e., keep it adjusted. I often keep a bit of pressure on the spiral gear with my thumb.
Another legitimate use, if your project is at a distance from your tool box, and you don’t want to lug the box or make several trips to find the right ‘real’ wrench, take the crescent and use it to measure the nut, then compare with the proper open end wrench.
Also agree with Kroil – a true penetrator.- 51Jacob MorganMarch 7, 2013 at 10:03 am
Wilde tool is an American company that still makes tools here. They used to make the stuff that Craftsman and other companies rebranded. Now with all of them chasing cheap crap from China, Wilde is starting to sell tools under their own brand. They don’t make open end or ratchet wrenches, but they make pipe wrenches, all types of pliers, screw drivers, etc. Wildetool.com is their site. Harryepsein.com is an on-line distributer.
- 52skoobieMarch 7, 2013 at 11:40 am
Wow, so much strident dogmatic opposition to adjustable wrenches!
1.) Not every project involves high-torque automotive fasteners.
2.) Not every project happens in the garage, right next to your 36-drawer deluxe tool chest.Like every tool, the adjustable wrench is right for some jobs and wrong for others.
- 53RobMarch 7, 2013 at 11:59 am
Wrench sets are great to have, I use a socket wrench whenever i can because i love the ease ratcheting provides. My father bought me a full craftsman set while I was in college and started cycling frequently.
While I love my socket wrench set the hex wrench set stays in the kit most of the time because I have to allen key multitools. Having a whole set in one folding tool is really handy and sees more use than any other tool in my house with the execption of box cutter. Making adjustments on a bike or compound bow, putting together furnitrure, etc.
- 54daveMarch 7, 2013 at 12:21 pm
growing up on a dairy farm and operating the same one today I find the ignorance of tools a disgrace, I’m self taught, have overhauled diesel tractors and do all my own repairs a must to survive. Yes it is Manly but it is also a necessity, if your going to have all you work done by “professionals" you will be broke and feel stupid to boot.
how about a riff on welders and cutting torches?
PS
no disparagement to professionals, boy do we need them- 55Ron SwansonMarch 7, 2013 at 12:42 pm
Good basic article on tools. A tool is like a woman. You can associate with cheap sleazy ones that bring temporary enjoyment, and don’t cost much. Or you can invest in a good solid relationship that gives you lasting satisfaction. So it is with your tools. The choice is up to you.
- 56EdMarch 7, 2013 at 2:41 pm
Normally I fully agree with everything you guys post, but you got something wrong–pulling vs. pushing a wrench. You are NEVER supposed to pull a wrench, it will knock out your teeth. Pushing it–you might scrape a knuckle–but you have your teeth still.
- 57BrentMarch 7, 2013 at 4:47 pm
The only tools that I will use while working on an engine is a Snap-On. Though they are costly, the qualtiy surpasses Craftsman by at least 20 times. If you ever get a chance, talk to a Snap-On rep and demo a screwdriver with a grease covered handle compared to a regular screwdriver with no grease. You will get about a half turn more with the Snap-On.
- 58TimMarch 7, 2013 at 5:28 pm
Richard Trethewey on This Old House mentioned on one show that when using a pipe wrench you should get a “three point bite" with the pipe touching the back of the jaw so it isn’t forced out of round.
Also, when working on most engines etc. the first thing I use is liquid wrench by spraying the fasteners I think I’ll be removing before I start working. This gives it a head start on soaking in and if I don’t remove all the fasteners I thought then worst case it will be easier next time.
- 59GDSMarch 7, 2013 at 8:14 pm
Ha, ha! Don’t use a cheater bar… Because there’s some risk involved? I think your inner attorney must have reared its ugly head for a moment, Brett. The manly approach to a cheater bar (or a knife, fire, automobile, etc.) is to be aware of the risks involved, don’t be reckless, and learn to do it properly. Have quality tools. Use the right size wrench for the job. Use a pipe not too much wider than the wrench handle. Apply force to the pipe close to the wrench at first, and gradually move outward.
- 60minutemanMarch 7, 2013 at 9:58 pm
I would agree with the anti crescent wrench comments, but it depends on application. I am a professional technician in a power plant and for the type of work I do a top quality adjustable wrench is a most useful tool. I can fix most problems I encounter with a few screw drivers and an adjustable wrench I carry around in my pockets. If I can’t do it with those few things I have a big honkin’ rolling tool box and the tool crib to fall back on. This is, however usually low torque stuff like pneumatics and control stuff. In automotive type apps, I agree that adjustables should be avoided.
- 61JeffCMarch 7, 2013 at 11:31 pm
Yes, it is sad that young men don’t know how to use simple tools. The reason? Mostly, it’s fatherlessness.
- 62mmMarch 8, 2013 at 6:04 am
Nothing wrong with cheater bars,or using adjustable or crescent wrench, there is always a better tool for the job but you don’t have it.
- 63NickMarch 8, 2013 at 9:59 am
Hey Brett great article, but you need to add if possible it is always better to use the open side of a combo wrench, due to the better surface area on the fastener. Also I have the same craftsman set you recommend, but mine have developed spots of surface rust on all of the wrenches and sockets. Any advice on how to get rid of it?
- 64TravisMarch 8, 2013 at 7:53 pm
Something I learned from my father, an auto mechanic, was to use 12-point box wrenches or sockets if you come across a sticky nut/bolt. That way, if you happen to round the corners, you might still be able to get it loose with a 6-point. Speaking from experience, I found this to be especially handy info when when it came to removing spark plugs during a DIY tune-up.
- 65mrridenMarch 9, 2013 at 5:20 pm
I am horrified! There is a “right" tool for every job abs it is NEVER an adjustable wrench! NEVER!
- 66John BennettMarch 9, 2013 at 8:45 pm
A wiser person told me when I was frustrated with of all things a copy machine. ‘" A poor craftsman blames his tools." Has always stuck with me. Hey, whatever tool works, use it!
- 67ChattyMattyMarch 10, 2013 at 12:57 am
Pat R… I checked my local tool shop and asked for the metric Crescent wrench but they didn’t have one. He tried to sell me the Whitworth version!
- 68GarethMarch 10, 2013 at 9:26 pm
Thank you for the straightforward, practical advice and helpful illustrations. .
- 69JordanMarch 11, 2013 at 11:30 am
I just bought a whole bunch of wrenches, hex-key set and socket set to work on my car. I was able to save hundreds of dollars by buying some tools, and the parts I needed to replace from O’Reilly’s. Also, I need several wrenches on film shoots for professional tripods and lighting equipment, etc. Every man should have a good set of wrenches.
- 70IanMarch 11, 2013 at 6:19 pm
Not a Snap-on vendor. Buy Snap-on wrenches if you do more than just assemble and install your ceiling fan.
Story time: as a mechanic, I used Craftsman wrenches. I came across a hex nut that was rusted to an alternator assembly. “No problem," I thought as I grabbed my trusty Craftsman 15mm, which I then proceeded to destroy because of the rusted nut. I grabbed our Master Tech’s Snap-on 15mm, and within seconds the nut was loose (and replaced). I bought Snap-on from that day forward.
- 71EricVMarch 12, 2013 at 9:12 am
Its worth mentioning that 12 point sockets are pretty much more trouble than they are worth. Easily twice as likely to strip nuts as 6 pointers, with the only benefit being they can be used on square heads which are pretty uncommon these days (usually only seen on transmission/differential drain/fills). Kobalt from Lowes also carries an exchange warranty similar to Craftsman with tools that are comparable quality these days. Snap-on 80 tooth ratchets are an amazing creation though.
- 72EdwardMarch 13, 2013 at 10:58 pm
There should be an article for special tools and practices on the removal of broken fasteners or studs I.e. using heat, easy outs, double nutting, welding a nut, etc. I’m a diesel mechanic and resort to these methods and tools. It’s a good thing to know when your in a bind
- 73Rob RoyMay 6, 2013 at 3:57 am
Great article! My dad is awesome with any kind of tools. He do almost all the repairs at his mansion, backyard and garden by himself. Too bad he had never “forced" me to get his knowledge as a kid so I haven’t grew up with this.
But what man is a man without knowledge of simple crafting or the most basic tools? So I very appreciate this one.Knowing the Crescent Wrench could have spared me an hour of searching and buying different wrenches at the hardware shop. (I needed to loose a nut of my computers motherboard, which was very small and hard to grab, this very tool gave me the right leaverage even in small and inconvenient areas).
This article goes right to my bookmarks for future reference!
- 74harlanMay 17, 2013 at 5:51 pm
i have an old cresent wrench that is at least 3 ft long. it was used to tighten down forms that would incase cement pipe. The pipes would be from 12 ft to 18 ft.
Is it worth anything.
Harlan
- 75TimMay 25, 2013 at 2:03 pm
Kobalt tools are manufactured by the same company as Craftsman and also carry a lifetime warranty. They are much more reasonably priced than Craftsman.
- 76FredJune 3, 2013 at 12:40 pm
First my disclaimer: I am a safety professional in the oil and gas industry. Cheater pipes are a big battle that I face with the employees. There are 2 reasons why that are not allowed to be used. 1.) It violates OSHA’s general duty clause, and the OSHA inspector WILL get you for the modification of a tool. 2.) It violates the manufacturer’s warranty.
With that being said, the lever is one of man’s oldest inventions. There are instances where you need increased torque, but the head of a 36″ pipe wrench may be too big to fit on the equipment. This is where the challenge lies. Why haven’t any tool companies engineered a device to add leverage to a pipe wrench or a crescent wrench? These companies would gain a lot of money, but I have a feeling they’re worried about the liability of a cracked skull should something fail.- 77MikeJune 19, 2013 at 12:14 pm
A word on using crescent wrenches I got from my earliest practical teacher, a factory engineer I worked alongside in my holidays; I learned a mass of practical skills from him.
Use it with the fixed jaw facing the direction you are turning it. This puts the greater stress on the fixed jaw, and helps it last longer, and be less likely to slip. The picture above is showing the wrong way.. No big deal nowaday with modern alloys, but it does make a difference.
- 78MikeJune 25, 2013 at 9:10 pm
As an industrial electrician and crane mechanic, my 8″ crescent wrench has a place in my Klien Tools backpack. I also have a few ratcheting combination wrenches in there, but my Crescent brand metric adjustable wrench is my go-to wrench. The newer ones are built to tighter tolerances and even include a laser etched scale to indicate size.
Also, you don’t need a cheater bar. The box end of a combination wrench will hook nicely over the open end of a smaller combination wrench to give you all of the illicit leverage that you need to break stuff.
- 79Deep InyaJune 29, 2013 at 4:11 pm
I maintain large flying cranes for a living (CH54B) I regularly use crescent wrenches. I also use cheater bars that are 4-5 long. You can’t break a 600 ft-lb nut without a cheater bar.
- 80Deep InyaJune 29, 2013 at 4:12 pm
edit – unless you have a sweeney tool.
- 81RobSeptember 3, 2013 at 5:28 pm
I would like to point out that most of what you have posted about as "wrenches" are actually spanners. In most parts of the world your adjustable or crescent wrench is actually a shifting or adjustable spanner or “shifter"colloquially. As are all your open and closed end spanners…. yanks ;)
- 82LiamSeptember 12, 2013 at 8:04 am
Bret I just want to thank you for referring to these “wrenches" as spanners at least once. As a Brit it’s rather annoying to have Americans use English as a language and then go on to incorrectly spell words or use the wrong word entirely, colour for example, without at least acknowledging that in England that’s not how it’s spelt or said. However you Bret have acknowledged our islands language, so once again thank you.
- 83KyleSeptember 17, 2013 at 10:01 pm
Cool article, but I would like to point out a couple things. Being that I have done demo work in industrial facilities, I have found cheater bars to be necessary to persuade doggedly stubborn bolts. Also, some wrenches can have special round tapered pointy handles used for lining bolt holes up. These are called Spud wrenches. Spud wrenches can be open end or crescent.
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Posted on October 16th, 2013
Keep Your House in Tip-Top Shape: An Incredibly Handy Home Maintenance Checklist | The Art of Manliness
Keep Your House in Tip-Top Shape: An Incredibly Handy Home Maintenance Checklist
by Jeremy Anderberg on October 8, 2013 · 46 comments
When buying a home, most people probably first think of the financial responsibility. Don’t let yourself forget, however, about the time and labor that home ownership also requires. Just like regular oil changes for your car keep your engine happy and healthy, keeping up with regular home maintenance tasks will keep you from future headaches and wasted money.
It can be intimidating to think about these various tasks, especially if you’re a new homeowner. It’s a long list — there’s no denying that. The good news is that you can do the majority of it on your own without much experience. Google is your best friend, and if you really get stuck, call up your local handyman to help you out.
In order to maximize your efficiency and actually get all of these tasks done, you might want to create a home maintenance calendar for yourself. Whether online or on paper, you can jot down small, regular tasks for each weekend and not be too overwhelmed. We’ve listed tasks that need to be done monthly, quarterly, and biannually. We’ve also given you a list of tasks to be completed seasonally. Not every expert agrees as to which task needs to be done in which season, so this isn’t a black and white list, necessarily. Do what works for you and your schedule, and as long as all these things get accomplished, your home will be happy for years and years to come.
Monthly
- Inspect, and possibly change out HVAC filters. Many experts will say to change the filters monthly, but that’s not always necessary. For smaller families without pets or allergies, you’ll likely be okay changing the filters every 2-3 months. If the filter is dirty, change it out, otherwise inspect it again next month. I’ve also been told by handymen to go with cheaper filters and replace them more often versus going with the expensive filters.
- Clean kitchen sink disposal. There are a bunch of ways to do this, but the handiest and best all-around solution seems to be vinegar ice cubes. Put some vinegar in an ice tray and let it freeze, then run the ice cubes through the disposal. It freshens it, but as a bonus, ice sharpens the blades. You’re welcome.
- Clean range hood filters. If you’ve never thought of doing this, you’re in for a real “treat" when you get that filter off the hood to clean it for the first time. The Family Handyman suggests simply using a degreaser from an auto parts store mixed with hot water. Let the filter sit for a few minutes, rinse it off, and you’re good to go.
- Inspect your fire extinguisher(s). We’ll assume you have and know how to use an extinguisher. This inspection doesn’t require much: ensure it has easy access (not being blocked by a garbage can or anything else), that the gauge shows adequate pressure, and that it has no visible signs of wear and tear.
Quarterly
- Test smoke/carbon dioxide detectors. Another simple task; your detectors should have a “test" button. If the alarm sounds, you’re good to go. If not, replace batteries immediately and test again. If it still doesn’t sound, it’s possible there’s simply corrosion on the battery terminal, and it won’t detect new batteries. Clean it and try again. If it still doesn’t work, you’ll likely need a new detector.
- Test garage door auto-reverse feature. In 1993, federal law required all garage doors to have this feature after multiple child deaths. Test every month by placing a 2×4 on the ground where the door would close. It should reverse after a second or so when the door hits the wood. Also test the photo-electric sensors if you have them by placing something in front of them (not your body). If the door doesn’t immediately go back up, you have a problem.
- Run water and flush toilets in unused spaces. This mostly applies to guest bathrooms, or any other sinks/water sources you don’t use on a regular basis. The idea is to prevent grime or any other kind of build up. Regularly running a little bit of water through will prevent this.
- Check water softener, add salt if needed. You shouldn’t need to add salt every month, but better to check anyway, as it only takes about 5 seconds.
Biannually
- Test your water heater’s pressure relief valve. This will prevent mineral and corrosion buildup, which safeguards against leaks. It will also help your heater run more efficiently.
- Give your house a deep clean. Take one Saturday every six months with your whole family, and give the whole house a proper deep clean. Appliances, windows, dusting every nook and cranny (including the basement), etc. Keeping things clean and not letting dirt/grime/dust build up over years and years will help keep your home in tip-top shape.
- Replace batteries in smoke/carbon dioxide detectors. I’d never heard this before, actually. I just assumed you changed it out when it started giving you the low battery beeping noise. This tip was in everything we researched, however. With something as important as this, you can’t be too careful, and batteries won’t break your bank. Change ‘em out every six months.
- Vacuum your refrigerator coils. I actually learned this tip from a refrigerator repairman, and our research confirmed it. The fridge can use up to 15 percent of your home’s total power, so you want it running as efficiently as possible. Over time, the coils get dirty and your fridge requires more juice. You can save up to $100 a year by doing this, and it’s not at all a difficult task.
Annually (Organized by Season)
Spring
Spring is a big month for home maintenance. They don’t call it “Spring Cleaning" for nothing. Especially focus on the exterior of your home as it’s just gone through winter and is preparing for summer heat, and in some parts of the country, brutal humidity.
- Check the exterior drainage. Will rain water flow away from the house? Puddles should not stand around your home for more than 24 hours. If water stays, or moves toward your foundation, you have a few options. First, check your gutters. It could be a bad spout or a loose connection there; they may also just need cleaning. Second, you can grade the area around your home yourself with some dirt; this has worked just fine for me in the past. Third, for pavement, you can have professionals come out and raise it so it drains away from your home.
- Clean out gutters. They’ve likely accumulated leaves from the fall and grime/sediment from the winter snows and/or rains.
- Inspect the exterior of your home. Is any paint chipping? Is any siding damaged from winter? Are there any holes in your brick? Take a close look all around your house, and make any repairs as needed. Also be sure to check the foundation for any cracks. A good silicone/caulk can fix a lot of your problems.
- Get your air conditioning system ready for summer; consider having it serviced. This one really depends on your individual home, and even which part of the country you live in. Some places mostly just use window air units, while other places (like my home in Colorado) use a big swamp cooler up on the roof — these are fairly basic machines where a quick internet search can help you fix any issues that come up. Also refer to the user guides for specific regular maintenance. Central air is obviously a more complex system. Getting it serviced by a professional should be around $100 or less, and it will save money and headaches down the road.
- Repair/replace damaged window screens. You don’t want bugs making their way in because you missed a hole in a window screen. And no, duct tape doesn’t count. It can be a quick fix, but don’t leave it for long. It just looks bad.
- Clear dead plants/shrubs from the house. This could double as a gardening tip, but if you didn’t trim trees or shrubs in the fall, do so now. Plants can weasel their way into cracks and holes on the exterior of your home, causing damage and shortened longevity. Nip that in the bud before it’s an issue. If you have decorative vines on the exterior, pay close attention.
- Check trees for interference with electric lines. Have professionally trimmed if necessary.
- Inspect roofing for damage, leaks, etc. Repair as needed; you may need a professional.
Summer
Summer is a great time to focus on the exterior of your home, as well as your lawn and garden. It’s also perfect for having that garage door open and utilizing the prolonged daylight to work on any manly projects you’ve had on the backburner.
- Check grout in bathrooms, kitchen, etc.; repair as needed. This will prolong the life of your tiled surfaces and just looks better.
- Inspect plumbing for leaks, clean aerators on faucets. Go around to all your faucets and toilets and check for any small leaks. If you have poor water pressure out of a faucet, the aerator is the likely culprit and it’s an extremely easy fix.
- Take care of any insect problems you may have. Summer is their playground. You probably won’t have to look too hard to notice any insect problems. Ants, spiders, moths, etc. are all common, and fairly easy to take care of. Keep cobwebs clear, have ant poison handy, make sure all doors are tightly closed, etc. If termites are common in your area, this handy article gives some tips on how you can do some inspection and prevention yourself.
- Clean and repair deck/patio as needed. It generally just needs a good washing. A deck may also need re-staining. Also check for any loose boards or posts and repair as needed.
- Clean out window wells of debris. If you have a basement, you also have window wells. All kinds of things can get down in there from leaves, to trash, to animals.
- Check and clean dryer vent, other exhaust vents to exterior of home. While the dryer is running, check that the exhaust is coming out. It should smell nicely of fresh laundry. If there isn’t much exhaust, check for blockages as well as you can. You may need a professional. Also vacuum the lint from the hose at the dryer.
- Clean garage. Cleaning the garage should be a summer ritual for every man. Keeping it clean and tidy will extend its life, and it often gets neglected of regular care. With all the extra dust it gets from the manly projects you’re working on, you should actually clean it even more. Once a year, however, give a thorough going-through.
Fall
Fall is an in-between season where you’re finishing up your summer home maintenance tasks as well as getting your home ready for winter. Cold, snow, and rain can do a number to a home, so you don’t want to ignore winter preparation.
- Flush hot water heater and remove sediment. This prolongs the life of the heater and helps with efficiency as well.
- Winterize air conditioning systems. Remove and store window units. If you have central air, cover the outside unit with a tarp or plastic sheeting and secure with bungee cords.
- Get heating system ready for winter. Check for any leaks in windows or doors; these can cost an arm and a leg. Make sure heating vents are open and not blocked by furniture. Get furnace serviced/inspected at least every other year, preferably annually. As with the AC, this shouldn’t be a huge expense. Don’t forget about fireplaces if you have them.
- Turn off and flush outdoor water faucets. Also flush hoses and store them. Winterize sprinkler systems as well, if you have one.
- Get chimney cleaned, if you have one. Some folks say to do this in the spring, some say fall. Either way, just make sure it’s done once per year.
- Test sump pump. You don’t want to wait until you need your sump pump to find out it’s not working.
- Check driveway/pavement for cracks. Make sure to have re-sealed before winter; water can freeze and expand in the cracks, causing more damage.
- Buy winter gear. Have sidewalk salt, good shovels, etc. ready for winter. You never know when that first snow will come!
Winter
Winter is the time to go around the interior of your home and check for any little things you may have overlooked, or perhaps noticed and said, “I’ll get to that later." Winter is your later. If you have any interior honey-do projects, whether it be painting, building shelves, etc., now is a great time to tackle those as well.
- Regularly check for ice dams and icicles. De-icing cables that sit at the front of the roof work well. Don’t let icicles grow, as much as the kids may want you to. They’re not only a danger to people standing beneath them, but they’re incredibly heavy and can cause damage to your home. They also can cause water damage to your foundation when they melt.
- Test your electricity to the extent that you can. Always, always be extra careful when working with electricity. You can do a couple things on your own, though. Check that all outlets work; if they don’t, you can re-wire them on your own. Also, test your GFCI outlets. There are wildly varying opinions on how often to test this. Some say monthly, others say annually.
- Tighten any handles, knobs, racks, etc. Go through the house and inspect anything that could have a loose screw.
- Check all locks and deadbolts on your doors and windows. If anything doesn’t work right, replace.
- Check caulking around showers and bathtubs; repair as needed.
- Remove showerheads and clean sediment. This prolongs its life and helps with water pressure as well.
- Deep clean and inspect the basement. Basements are notoriously overlooked, especially if they’re primarily just storage areas. Dust ‘em up, clean any windows, make sure there isn’t mold anywhere, etc. Give your basement a good inspection at least once a year.
While this list is certainly extensive, it’s not a complete list of all the things you can do for your home. What do you do to keep your home in tip-top shape? Do you have any hacks for doing these tasks as efficiently and effectively as possible?
{ 46 comments… read them below or add one }
- 1NicOctober 8, 2013 at 9:01 pm
It’s funny that you post this, because I was hoping to compile something like this myself!
Now It’s just a matter of putting dates on things that need to be done.
THANKS!- 2criolleOctober 8, 2013 at 9:15 pm
Make this a printable!
- 3AndrewOctober 8, 2013 at 9:20 pm
Instead of, or perhaps in order to reduce how often you need to replace HVAC filters, give them a good vacuumming once in a while (once per month?).
I’m not sure how well this works (I’m renting an apartment) but my parents have been vacuuming their HVAC filters for as long as I can remember.
- 4HAOctober 8, 2013 at 9:23 pm
Great list. However, you might want to check your window and deadbolt locks in the fall or spring. If there is a problem that needs fixed you won’t let all your heat out in the winter, or the cool out in the summer.
- 5jerryOctober 8, 2013 at 9:53 pm
Take a piece of 1 inch hose and attach it with electrical tape to your vacuum sweeper hose to clean out your refrigerator coils.
- 6JoshOctober 8, 2013 at 10:23 pm
“Run water and flush toilets in unused spaces…The idea is to prevent grime or any other kind of build up."
The purpose of this is not to prevent build up (which, in an unused drain, wouldn’t build up), but to keep the trap full of liquid to prevent sewer gases from venting into your home.
- 7TinaOctober 8, 2013 at 10:58 pm
RE: fridge coils. If your coils are underneath rather than on the back, use an air compressor to blow the dust out from underneath. Most vacuums won’t get anything but the first two coils which isn’t enough to make a difference.
- 8Michael MooreOctober 8, 2013 at 11:45 pm
> ice sharpens the blades
I am having an extremely difficult time imagining how this could possibly be true.
A) Aren’t the blades going to be very much harder than some vinegar ice
B) They’re going to be hitting the blades at all sorts of random angles which wouldn’t help anyways.The other tips seem good, but this one seems like something you’d find on a top-10 list on pinterest.
- 9Matthew HayesOctober 9, 2013 at 1:02 am
Could you make a list like this for cars?
- 10davidOctober 9, 2013 at 4:20 am
Great list! Thank you. Thank you… One correction though is that biannual is every two years. I think you meant semiannual which is every six months. Great article, thanks for putting it together.
- 11LasseOctober 9, 2013 at 5:26 am
A very nice list indeed. I have a single comments, just from my own experience.
The range hood filters can often be cleaned effectively in the dishwasher. In my experience, the most intensive program is better than anything I have been able to do by hand until now.
Furthermore, if your fridge has a tray behind where it collects water, empty it while you vacuum the ribs, and make sure the passage through the fridge wall is clean and empty – ells your fridge might flood inside.
- 12Jeremy AnderbergOctober 9, 2013 at 7:13 am
@Michael — thanks for asking about disposal blades. This is actually a very common piece of advice we found. After doing a little more digging, it’s not entirely accurate, just easier to say it that way than fully explaining.
From InSinkErator: “Many people think a disposer works like a blender, with spinning blades chopping and breaking down the waste. In reality disposers work in a different way – and there are NO blades involved. Instead, impellers (or lugs) mounted on a spinning plate use centrifugal force to continuously force food waste particles against a stationary grind ring. The grind ring breaks down the food waste into very fine particles – virtually liquefying them."
What the ice does is clear/clean those impellers for maximum efficiency and freshness. So while the tip wasn’t 100% mechanically accurate, it still applies. Thanks for asking.
- 13Native SonOctober 9, 2013 at 8:07 am
A couple of minor critques:
For the refrigerator, get a coil brush. Let’s you get behind coils on the back and simply at the coils on the bottom of the fridge. That coil brush also works on clothes dryers to get lint out of them, or at least loosen it so it gets blown out of the machine.
For checking the batteries in the smoke/carbon monoxide detectors, check ‘em if you’ve never done that. Otherwise, per the local fire department, change the batteries when you reset the clocks for daylight savings time (OK, use the equinoxes if your area doesn’t do Daylight Savings).
Gutter cleaning is a mid-to late autumn deal if you live in an area with a Mediterranean climate (virtually no rain for half the year). It’s a good idea todo it that time of year anyway, you’ll want the gutters and downspouts clear to handle winter precipitation…and if your children are like mine, you’ll likely find a few small balls up there…Theodd badminton shuttle cock makes an excellent drain plug for a downspout as well.- 14WattsOctober 9, 2013 at 8:07 am
Great list, as someone who is looking to buy a home soon, this will certainly come in handy!
I would also consider adding two things to the list:
1 – Checking the condition of the water hoses on your washer annually. A broken hose can quickly flood and ruin everything in your basement (or worse if you have your washer upstairs)
2 – Checking all shut off water shutoff valves (toilets, sinks, washing machine, etc) monthly or annually. By shutting off the valve, you’re ensuring that it still works and has not locked up. Also working the valve occasionally will help prolong its life. Better to find out now than when your toilet is overflowing!
Great article, thanks!
- 15Jake HughesOctober 9, 2013 at 8:10 am
Great article! I’m a real estate agent and will share this with all of my clients (and use it myself!).
I remember the first time I heard about cleaning refrigerator coils. We had been in our home for about 5 years and boy were they dirty!
- 16JoshuaOctober 9, 2013 at 9:42 am
I would love a pdf layout of this post. Very helpful.
- 17Brad FelmeyOctober 9, 2013 at 9:59 am
This might be a bit tangental, but for many people home ownership includes gasoline power equipment such as lawnmowers, leaf blowers, chain saws, etc.
At least quarterly these should be started up for a few moments to ensure that the incredibly small fuel passages in the carburetors don’t clog with dessicated fuel.
- 18MattOctober 9, 2013 at 10:26 am
@Josh
Actually, if you live in an area with hard water (as I do in Ohio), water rings and scale buildups from unused fixtures can be a real headache, especially in toilets. I’ve also had to replace tub/shower diverters that have mechanically frozen from disuse.
But your point about traps is a very legitimate concern as well. I’ve been on the wrong end of a dry trap in an unused shower/tub a couple times, and it stinks.
- 19DanOctober 9, 2013 at 10:31 am
I used to work in electret filtration at 3M (i.e., HVAC filters). My job was to test filters for particle penetration, as well as pressure drop across the filter. We used oils, salts, and just about everything else imaginable for test materials. After all that experience, I can assure you, the cheaper HVAC filters work about as well as a screen door on a submarine. Invest in a good filter, change it every 3 months, and your lungs will thank you.
- 20JerryOctober 9, 2013 at 10:39 am
I don’t have a carbon dioxide detector, is that important to go along with my carbon MONOXIDE detector? :) Thanks for the great article, it will be a great guide to keep handy!
- 21MikeOctober 9, 2013 at 11:40 am
Perfect timing. Seriously. My wife and I just bought a house and I thought to myself…"dang, I gotta start a list…" Thanks for starting one!
- 22GuyOctober 9, 2013 at 12:04 pm
From my experiences and recommendations from plumbers “Do Not Test The Hot Water Tank Pressure Relief Valve". As soon as you do it will start leaking on you and will need replaced. I’ve gone through 3 in three years…testing each year before a plumber finally gave me the advice.
- 23Ryan CobinOctober 9, 2013 at 12:24 pm
I have always done the hot water heater flush in the beginning of the summer for the start of hurricane season. Your hot water heater is a 40-60gal emergency water supply so it’s important to keep it clean.
- 24AlexOctober 9, 2013 at 2:26 pm
@ Josh
“The purpose of this is not to prevent build up (which, in an unused drain, wouldn’t build up), but to keep the trap full of liquid to prevent sewer gases from venting into your home."
- To add on to what @Matt said about scaling – unused drains are stagnant and can grow bacteria colonies that clog the drains. This is why you should pour bleach down the HVAC drain too. To prevent bacteria clogs and evaporation issues you should pour about a cup of bleach in anything that will sit for a while. Then add a few ounces of mineral spirits which will coat the surface and help prevent evaporation.
In general, for unused sinks/toilets/drains I’d recommend adding this to the monthly check – quarterly is far too long to go without being used.
- 251stGenRexOctober 9, 2013 at 3:17 pm
On the shower head thing, take the shower head off and put it in a ziplock bag with white vinegar. Leave it there for a few hours and then rinse it out.
We have hard water, and this trick saved me from buying a new shower head, because I thought ours was messed up.
- 26daleOctober 9, 2013 at 3:28 pm
Love the article, but to make it really great for your readers, why not provide it in pdf, or another printable format? It’s supposed to be a checklist right?
- 27JohnOctober 9, 2013 at 7:37 pm
So, just my 2 cents as a plumber: If you don’t have hard water or lots of sediment problems with your water, you don’t necessarily need to drain your tank.
If you do feel the need to, take my advice, remove the plastic piece of crap drain valve, thread in a brass (you really want to spend the money on that) nipple, ball valve, and hose adapter.
Also, dont put any cleaning chemicals in the tank of the toilet, such as 2000 flushes, it degrades the rubber and plastic parts much faster.
- 28DougOctober 9, 2013 at 8:41 pm
While you’re flushing out unused sinks and toilets, it’s a good idea to test the shut-off valves, too. Deposits can build up overtime and cause the valves to seize.
And second topping off the drain traps. Don’t forget the overflow drain on your water heater if you have one.
- 29TomOctober 10, 2013 at 9:17 am
Ok, so I guess I might be a bit young (I’m nearly through being 17) to be really considering this, but it’s only a few years off.
So I’m a bit unclear on some things, and obviously there will be differences because this article is probably tailored to the States, and I’m Canadian.
Firstly, what exactly is the difference between “hard" water and “soft" water? I’ve heard different definitions for each before. Is it that common in the States that your tap water is, in general, undrinkable without putting your own additives in?
Secondly, how common is it to have a garbage disposal in your sink? I’ve never in my life seen one. It’s pretty much a US thing, as far as I know.
Well, otherwise, this list is pretty well comprehensive, I think. In urban Canada the winter’s aren’t too bad, but out in the rural areas it is downright awful (or awesome, depending on your views).- 30Debbie MOctober 10, 2013 at 9:25 am
I’ve heard it’s best to use the three-month HVAC filters and change them every month anyway. (I live someplace with very heavy use half the year.) I’ve also heard that vacuuming them doesn’t help–something about the sharp particles having ripped through the filter, and then you are ripping them back out with the vacuum, leaving big holes so the filter is no longer protecting the unit.
- 31ViperOctober 10, 2013 at 9:40 am
Does anybody know a good reference book for general home maintenance? I’d like to learn how to fix more stuff around the house. Cheers!
- 32TylerOctober 10, 2013 at 10:17 am
I don’t remember ever seeing anyone in my parents’ house do any preventative maintenance like this in their house, and it really shows. Most things either get fixed when they break, or they just get left until it gets worse and they have to spend even more time and money to fix it. If I were there more often, I’d definitely implement this list, but for now, I’ll just have to wait until I have my own home. Thanks for the tips.
- 33Debbie MOctober 10, 2013 at 10:48 am
Tom, hard water has lots of minerals in it. US tap water is always drinkable by government standards, but some people don’t like the minerals (which makes it harder for soap to lather) or the taste and so they treat the water anyway.
I almost always see a garbage disposal in the kitchen sink, especially when there is a dishwasher. I don’t know why; I’m happy to use the trash can or compost heap.
- 34Jeremy AnderbergOctober 10, 2013 at 11:37 am
@Viper – I relied heavily on this NY Times guide: http://www.amazon.com/Times-Repair-Almanac-Season—Season/dp/0867307595/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381419421&sr=8-2&keywords=new+york+times+home+maintenance. My version was a little different, but similar to this. Otherwise, you can just search “home maintenance" in Amazon and get a bunch of good results.
- 35ViperOctober 10, 2013 at 1:10 pm
@Jeremy – Thanks for the suggestion. I know there are many options out there, but some are better than others.
- 36JoshOctober 10, 2013 at 2:38 pm
Nice article! It’ll definitely help me along in my adventures as a homeowner.
A request for a future article: could you do one of these for car maintenance as well?- 37MarkOctober 10, 2013 at 2:40 pm
Great list! have you made one for cars and/or gardening?
- 38ChrisSOctober 10, 2013 at 2:41 pm
RE: the chimney sweep and doing in spring or fall.
I have mine cleaned in the fall right before I start needing it for fires on those cold nights. My reason? In the late spring, a few weeks I’ve stopped burning wood for the winter, squirrels (and sometimes birds) like to stuff twigs and leaves into the chimney for nests. I’d rather pay to have my chimney cleaned once in the fall than once in the spring and again in the fall to clean out critter debris before I start burning all that lovely wood I’ve split.
- 39Brandon BeesonOctober 10, 2013 at 3:47 pm
I was also wanting a printable easy checklist of this article. So I figured I would make one and share it with all of you.
It is in Google Docs and you can download it and change it to fit your needs.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1mVH1Fn9WVdviKQ4W0Qtl_veGYd7Z_nBphknRP_T75uU/edit?usp=sharing
- 40LeeOctober 10, 2013 at 5:18 pm
You got to hand it to the gent in the yellow suspenders holding a beer in one hand and chugging one with the other. I’m hoping he is bringing it to his buddy waxing the car!
- 41JustinOctober 11, 2013 at 2:32 pm
I have found that rubbing alcohol on some paper towel works wonders on a range hood, kitchen ceiling fans and light fixtures which may all be greasy. Try it. You will be amazed.
- 42MathewOctober 11, 2013 at 9:29 pm
@ Brandon Beeson
Thanks for putting a printable list together!!!
- 43JDannyOctober 13, 2013 at 7:50 am
Wow! Usually good stuff like this list appears in time for Spring Cleaning and in Spring it’s too tempting to be outside rather than attending to essentials like those on your list. Now the routine can begin! Thanks.
- 44NS DaddyOctober 13, 2013 at 10:54 pm
If you see ice cicles or ice dams on your roof it’s a sign of much more serious problems with your house. By far the most common cause if the attic being improperly insulated & vented.
The attic should be a cold zone – too little insulation causes your heat to escape into the attic and melt thew snow on your roof. The melt then trickles to the eaves, where it re-freezes because there’s no longer a source of heat under it.
The ice freezing has a good chance of getting under the shingles, and the expanding ice can pop shingles up. This allows water penetration on to the sheeting and will eventually mold & rot.
It can NEVER hurt to add more insulation to your attic if you live in Canada or a colder US states. $200 in extra insulating (I prefer blown-in cellulose, but the pink batt insulation is just as good) and a little know-how will save you from a $10,000 roof repair job.
- 45PhilOctober 14, 2013 at 6:13 pm
Don’t pour bleach down the drain.
1) Goes straight into the sewer system
2)Certain household chemicals when mixed in the drain could form a sudden noxious cloud which may cause you to pass out, and injure yourself in a fall.
Instead pour half a cup of baking soda down the drain followed by a cup of vinegar then a cup of warm water.
- 46Anonomus CowardOctober 15, 2013 at 1:15 pm
I wouldn’t jump up and go check the pressure safety valve on the water heater. I did this once and it never completely seated giving a drip for a long time. There are multiple reasons it could not have seated but i blame built up crud. If the heater is new and hasn’t had a chance to build up a lot of crud then you could start this as a maintenance item. But for an old heater just leave it.
I doubt testing it will make any difference in its functioning anyway. In fact I doubt it is really needed other than to satisfy some section of ASME boiler code. For a heated incompressible liquid you need to move what, an ounce, of water to get back to safe pressures?
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Posted on October 16th, 2013
Belkin WeMo Light Switch Builds Simple Home Automation into Your Wall
Belkin WeMo Is One of the Simplest Home Automation Solutions We've Seen Yet
Belkin's new WeMo Home Automation Switch lets you control various electronics in your house right from your iOS device, and it's available… Read…
We've previously mentioned Belkin's super simple WeMo home automation system, but back then they only offered outlets and motion sensors. They've now bridged the gap with a light switch you can install directly into the wall in order to add WeMo services to the wiring in your home.P
While not quite as simple as plugging something into a wall, replacing a light switch is one of the easier electrical projects you can undertake. While you should hire an electrician if you don't feel qualified to do it yourself, Belkin does provide a simple and thorough tutorial to walk you through the process (see video above). Barring the installation process, the WeMo Light Switch takes just as little time to set up as the original devices. The service now comes with enhanced IFTTT support and an Android app, so you no longer need to own an iDevice to use it.P
Belkin WeMo Light Switch ($50) | BelkinP
I wonder why everybody is going with the wireless networking. It seems to me it would be much easier and more secure to just have switches/outlets that work over Powerline Ethernet. One Powerline adapter at your router and you could have every device in your house connected regardless of wifi signal strength.8/21/13 7:01am
As an owner of one of those Homeplug/Powerline adapters, I have to say that I'm not overly impressed. They're OK, but nothing to write home about. I purchased a pair of 500 Mbps units and in actuality, they get about 80 Mbps throughput. Not terrible, but not the same as having a wired gigabit home. In my particular case, I haven't noticed anything wonky with them, but I have heard that the wiring of your home is very critical to ensuring that Homeplug adapters work properly. Perhaps older homes with older wiring might not be as friendly for these as newer homes?
Also don't get me wrong, I hate WiFi. I absolutely detest it. It's latent, finicky, and has traditionally been much slower than wired. However, with advancements in WiFi, I see it becoming a better solution and I have a feeling I'm going to like it a lot more in about 5-10 years.
As for their applications in this regard, I think either would work fine and actually Homeplug's would be less latent than most WiFi signals, but not more secure. Homeplugs also have the potential of broadcasting that network around your neighborhood.Today 12:08pm
Unless they've fixed their security flaw, I won't be installing any of these soon. http://hackaday.com/2013/01/31/tur...8/21/13 7:03am
I could see some security issue with this as well. This looks like it creates its own wireless network that the WeMo app connects to for configuration of the switch. What's the security of that WiFi network? What stops someone else from connecting to that same network (WeMo wifi, not my own wifi). It is a very nice product, but I think they need to show us more details of the setup.8/22/13 8:59am
Is this the one that creates a separate WiFi network? I can't imagine how frustrating it would be to try and control these things with a phone/tablet.8/20/13 4:54pm
Nope - it joins your existing wifi, and can be controlled from anywhere in the world you have internet access (provided your home internet is working).8/20/13 5:53pm
Good to know. I was reading the packaging at Costco and it wasn't very clear.8/20/13 5:59pm
Blah blah give me the damn product link!
I installed three of these last week in a hall light, a flood light in my back yard and my light post in the front of the house. Then using the IFTTT app on my iphone I set up three recipes. One that turns all three lights on at sunset every day, one that turns the lamp post off at 1 a.m. and one that turns the flood light off at dawn. No longer do I have to worry about leaving the house in the evening and forgetting to leave a light on or forgetting to turn the flood light over the back yard off in the morning and having it on the whole time I'm at work.8/21/13 6:15am
Thank you for the practical application of the device. 8/21/13 9:04am
There's one thing better than getting and using Belkin WeMo family of products: Living in a high-tech house, maybe a few years from now, when all light switches and AC outlets have the same high-tech abilities built in!8/21/13 12:32am
Posted on October 16th, 2013
Hostas are Edible!
Hostas are Edible!
It may be no surprise to see potted hostas for sale at your local farmer’s market, early in the planting season, along with other garden favorites, but would you recognize the young shoots and leaves if they were bundled and hawked as fresh produce? Forget the side of asparagus or a lettuce salad, and say hello to hostas!
—Hosta montana
Hostas have long been used as a food source, and are most commonly consumed in Japan. Legend suggests that where H. montana grows like a weed in the northern mountain regions of Japan, locals took advantage of the easy nutritional value and eventually began cultivating the crop.
—Hostas and prawns
Today, the plant is sold as Urui, and the shoots, leaves and flowers are all edible. The soft texture and mild, less bitter flavor of young shoots is preferred to older growth. It is best to harvest leaves in the morning, when they have the highest moisture content. They can be eaten raw or cooked (boiled) and I have seen descriptions of taste which include snow pea pods, asparagus, lettuce and spinach. Snipping the blooms may seem gruesome to some hosta fanatics, but the flowers are also edible and can be used to beautify your salad or featured as a cake decoration.
Hostas stir fried
Although all species appear to be edible, H. montana and H. sieboldii are the most common vegetable favorites, while H. plantaginea is preferred for the sweet delicacy of flower consumption. An interesting aside, the Chinese frequently plant fields of H. plantaginea for honey production.
—Hosta salad
Recipes usually boil the stems or leaves, and then serve the vegetable in salad, dressed with sauce or paste, pickled, in sushi, or fried as tempura. I have yet to see hostas available in my local vegetable aisle, and therefore believe that the curious will have to make some sacrifices in their own garden! Just remember to avoid any plants that you have treated with systemic insecticide. Check the Plants for a Future website for more information on specific species: www.pfaf.org.
(*photos from http://forums.seedsavers.org/showthread.php?p=16708&mode=linear#post16708)
I haven’t tried it yet, but I found this recipe at http://www.giboshiarekore.com/recipe.html
Urui with Vinegar Mustard Miso Dressing
Ingredients:
Hosta (H. montana or whatever hosta you’d like to try)
White miso (bean paste)
Sugar
Sake (Japanese rice wine) or mirin (sweet cooking rice wine)
Vinegar (Kenya recommends rice vinegar)
Mustard
- Prepare Hosta:
- Cut off fresh leaves of hosta (preferably H. montana) just above the crown. Wash them well, and cook in boiling water with a little salt for 1/2 minute to 1-1/2 minutes. Drain well in a colander. Cut the leaves into 1 to 2 inches.
- Prepare VMM Dressing:
- Place white miso and sugar (about 1 : 0.7) in a small sauce pan
- Add some sake or mirin just enough so it is easy to mix
- Cook over low heat stirring constantly with a wooden spoon
- It is done when it turns creamy
- Cool the miso mixture
- Add vinegar to thin the miso mixture and mix well with a whisk
- Prepare mustard if you use dry one; Luke-warm water makes the mustard spicier
- Add the mustard to your taste to the miso mixture, and mix more with a whisk
- Serve the cooked hosta with the dressing
7 thoughts on “Hostas are Edible!"
I haven’t come across any hostas that are specifically not edible, but it seems to be a bit of an open question. I’ve read that H. fortunei is the most toothsome.
People often add too much salt in their recipes without realizing it until it’s too late, but do not worry. There is a way to fix this! Add two peeled and chopped raw potatoes to the dish, and then allow it to simmer for around 15 minutes. The potatoes help absorb the extra salt. For a dish that is tomato-based, just put a few more tomatoes in and let them cook until they’re tender. These will dilute the extra salt.:’
Ciao for now
<http://www.foodsupplementdigest.comI’m searching for the nutritional info on hostas. Are there limits to how much should be consumed, etc?
Hello Lynn,
I was not able to find nutritional information on hostas, but I did find this website which shows what the Japanese refer to as urui, and in which young hostas are treated like any other vegetable and cooked in a number of tasty ways.
http://shizuokagourmet.com/2009/03/03/new-vegetable-uruihosta-montana/
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Posted on October 15th, 2013
Duk's Many Bags.... BOB ONB EDC (no pics) (great inventory list)
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Posted on October 13th, 2013
Home Made Plant Rooting Hormone
Deep Green Permaculture
Home Made Plant Rooting Hormone – Willow Water
Weeping Willow (Salix babylonica)
Willows are an amazing tree that have captivated humanity since time immemorial. They appear in the ancient legends, tales, folklore and customs of the Chinese, Egyptians, Greeks, Brits, Celts and American Indians. They even feature in three of William Shakespeare’s plays, Hamlet, Othello and Twelfth Night.
Some folklore associated with willows is fascinating – my two favourites are are that it is bad luck to tell a secret while standing under a willow, as the wind that blows through the leaves will reveal the secret to everyone, and that striking an animal or a child with a willow twig will stunt their growth! They did have some strange ideas way back in Medieval Europe!
Surely, there is something “magical" about these trees, for them to capture our attention so strongly.They have some interesting and unique properties, as we’ll explore in this article!
Willows – A Brief Introduction
Willows are fast growing, deciduous trees that are mainly found found in the the Northern Hemisphere, in cold arctic and north temperate zones, in regions with moist soils. The Weeping Willow appears to be a native of extra-tropical Asia, from Japan and China to Armenia and the banks of the Euphrates, and of Egypt and North Africa.
One of the most popular and familiar willows is the Weeping willow (Salix babylonica), it has exceptional form and beauty. When mature it exhibits graceful, wide-spreading, pendulous weeping branches, with a short trunk, and a broad rounded crown. Its leaves are thin and narrow, sometimes with whitened or silky undersides. It is fast growing, and adaptable to almost any soil conditions.
Willows are an incredibly useful tree, they have many useful functions:
- Source of Medicine – The use of willow bark dates back thousands of years, to the time of Hippocrates (400 BC) when patients were advised to chew on the bark to reduce fever and inflammation. Willow bark has been used throughout the centuries in China and Europe, and continues to be used today for the treatment of pain (particularly low back pain and osteoarthritis), headache, and inflammatory conditions such as bursitis and tendinitis. The bark of white willow contains salicin, which is a chemical similar to aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid). It is thought to be responsible for the pain-relieving and anti-inflammatory effects of the herb. In fact, in the 1800s, salicin was used to develop aspirin. White willow appears to be slower than aspirin to bring pain relief, but its effects may last longer. (Ref: University of Maryland Medical Centre, Medical Reference – Complementary Medicine – Willow Bark)
- Source of Material for Construction and Manufacturing – Willow wood is used to make furniture, tool handles, wood veneers, and toys. It is used in wood turning as it is easily worked, and is also used to make cricket bats. Willows are a source of wicker for basketry (weaving of wicker baskets) and for making fish traps. The wood can also be used as a source of fibre for making rope, string and paper. Charcoal used by artists is exclusively made from willow.
- Source of Energy – Willow is grown for biomass, a renewable energy source which reduces the need for fossil fuels and petroleum products. Willow can be converted into a variety of sustainable environmentally-friendly resources, including: 1. heat and electricity by direct combustion, co-firing with coal, and gasification; 2. biodegradable plastics and other polymers; 3. biofuels.
Willows are an ideal source of biomass because 1. Willows are easily propagated from unrooted cuttings; 2. High yields can be obtained in a few years, 3. Willow’s genetic diversity and short breeding cycle can be utilized to produce improved varieties; 4. Willows vigorously re-sprout after each harvest; 5. The amount of heat in a dry ton of willow is similar to other hardwoods.
Large scale projects to support willow as an energy crop are already at commercial scale in Sweden, and in other countries there are being developed through initiatives such as the Willow Biomass Project in the US and the Energy Coppice Project in the UK. (Ref: College of Environmental Science and Forestry – The Willow Biomass Project) - Ecological/Environmental Uses – Willows have many beneficial environmental uses. They can be used in the following areas:
Riparian buffers – Natural barriers that prevent chemicals from entering streams, ponds, and lakes.
Phytoremediation – Willows clean up toxins from contaminated sites.
Wastewater management (biofiltration) – Willows filter contaminants from wastewater, and can be used in ecological wastewater treatment systems.
Environmental protection and preservation – Willows are often used for land reclamation, streambank stabilisation (bioengineering), slope stabilisation, soil erosion control, shelterbelt and windbreak construction, soil building, and soil reclamation.
Environmental reconstruction – Willows are used for constructing wetlands and wildlife habitat.
Gardening – Willows are used for in the construction of hedges, “living fences" and other living garden structures and general landscaping
Living snowfences – Strategically planted willows trap drifting snow.
Farming – Willows can used by farmers as an animal forage to feed their stock. - Horticultural Uses – Willow bark contains natural plant growth hormones which can be used for rooting new cuttings. This is the area that we’ll be looking at in this article!
One of the most amazing properties of willows is their growth! Coppicing a willow (that is cutting it back to ground level) will result in numerous rods growing from the base that will grow at an amazing rate of 1.2-3.0m in a single season. A broken willow branch left in water will grow roots. Willows successfully root from very thick pieces of stem, this method is known as taking “trunk cuttings", and a stem as thick as a human thigh will take root of put into damp ground. Willow cuttings can even grow if put in upside-down (but please do the right thing and put them in the right way up)! This property of willows is due to the naturally occurring plant rooting hormones that they contain. We can take advantage of this naturally occurring hormone, and make extracts that we can use to induce rooting on cuttings of other plants.
“Willow Water" – How it Works
“Willow Water" is a homebrew plant rooting hormone that is easily made and can be used to increase the strike rate (growth of roots) of cuttings that you’re trying to propagate.
The way that it works can be attributed to two substances that can be found within the Salix (Willow) species, namely, indolebutyric acid (IBA) and Salicylic acid (SA).
Indolebutyric acid (IBA) is a plant hormone that stimulates root growth. It is present in high concentrations in the growing tips of willow branches. By using the actively growing parts of a willow branch, cutting them, and soaking them in water, you can get significant quantities of IBA to leach out into the water.
Salicylic acid (SA) (which is a chemical similar to the headache medicine Aspirin) is a plant hormone which is involved in signalling a plant’s defences, it is involved in the process of “systemic acquired resistance" (SAR) – where an attack on one part of the plant induces a resistance response to pathogens (triggers the plant’s internal defences) in other parts of the plant. It can also trigger a defence response in nearby plants by converting the salicylic acid into a volatile chemical form.
When you make willow water, both salicylic acid and IBA leach into the water, and both have a beneficial effect when used for the propagation of cuttings. One of the biggest threats to newly propagated cuttings is infection by bacteria and fungi. Salicylic acid helps plants to fight off infection, and can thus give cuttings a better chance of survival. Plants, when attacked by infectious agents, often do not produce salicylic acid quickly enough to defend themselves, so providing the acid in water can be particularly beneficial.
Willow water can be made from cuttings of any tree or shrub of the willow family, a group of plants with the scientific name of Salix. The more cuttings that are used and the longer they are soaked in water, the stronger will be the resulting willow water. Recommendations for the exact method of soaking vary. Cold water can be used, and soaking times of four or more weeks are often quoted. Other gardeners use boiling water to steep the willow twigs and soak the mixture for around 24 hours.
How to Make “Willow Water"
Here is the procedure for making willow water:
- Collect young first-year twigs and stems of any of willow (Salix spp.) species, these have green or yellow bark. Don’t use the older growth that has brown or gray bark.
- Remove all the leaves, these are not used. Don’t waste good green material though, compost the leaves or throw them in the garden as mulch.
- Take the twigs and cut them up into short pieces around 1" (2.5cm) long.
- The next step is to add the water. there are several techniques to extract the natural plant rooting hormones:
a) Place the chopped willow twigs in a container and cover with boiling water, just like making tea, and allow the “tea" to stand overnight.
b) Place the chopped willow twigs in a container and cover with tap water (unheated), and let it soak for several days.
- When finished, separate the liquid from the twigs by carefully pouring out the liquid, or pouring it through a strainer or sieve. The liquid is now ready to use for rooting cuttings. You can keep the liquid for up to two months if you put it in a jar with a tight fitting lid and keep the liquid in the refrigerator. Remember to label the jar so you remember what it is, and write down the date you brewed it up, and to aid the memory, write down the date that it should be used by, which is two months from the date it was made!
- To use, just pour some willow water into a small jar, and place the cuttings in there like flowers in a vase, and leave them there to soak overnight for several hours so that they take up the plant rooting hormone. Then prepare them as you would when propagating any other cuttings.
The second way to use willow water is to use it to water the propagating medium in which you have placed cuttings. Watering your cuttings twice with willow water should be enough to help them root.
In Summary
As you can see, this is a garden potion that is really easy to brew up, and it keeps in line with the Permaculture principles of avoiding waste and caring for the Earth – no purchased synthetic chemicals, containers, it’s all natural, and best of all, free! So, next time you’re out on a hot summer’s day enjoying the shade and natural cooling provided by a majestic willow, grab a few twigs and take them home to help you in propagating plants for your garden!
106 Responses to “Home Made Plant Rooting Hormone – Willow Water"
- david hicks Says:
December 20, 2010 at 6:59 am | ReplyWhat an extraordinary amount of information about the willow, as well as clear instructions on making a potentially very helpful ‘garden potion’. Thank you to the author.
- Barbara Nudd Says:
December 20, 2010 at 9:55 pm | ReplyGreat article, great sharing. Thanks!
- Weekly Roundup – Rooting Hormone, Eco House and Leftovers Recipes Says:
December 24, 2010 at 1:11 am | Reply[...] DIY Rooting Hormone – Made from willow. I’ve done this before – it’s simple, cheap and effective. [...]
- terese Says:
January 16, 2011 at 9:23 am | Replysounds great i will give it a try
thanks - kimlan Says:
April 17, 2011 at 6:58 pm | Replyit is a wonderful way of making home made hormone . Could i just leave the rooting in the willow until the roots start to come out as i did with the rooting powder that i bought at the store ? thank you
- Blackthorn Says:
April 18, 2011 at 9:15 am | ReplyHi, I’m sorry I don’t quite understand what the question is. If you mean leaving the cuttings in the willow water until they grow roots, you can only do this with plants that you can normally root in water, any other plant will rot. Just leave the cuttings in the willow water overnight, for a few hours, that will do. To use the rooting powder, you just put the cut end of the plant straight into the powder, and it sticks onto the cut surface, it is used dry (unless the instructions state otherwise), and then you put your cutting into your propagating medium.
- Daniel Mielke Says:
February 3, 2012 at 11:42 pmWhat about tomato cuttings. I wouldn’t think one should leave them in the liquid overnight. How long should you soak those?
- Blackthorn Says:
February 4, 2012 at 12:18 amHi Daniel,
Since tomatoes are herbaceous, and have soft stems, it would be easier to use the second method I suggest in the article:
The second way to use willow water is to use it to water the propagating medium in which you have placed cuttings. Watering your cuttings twice with willow water should be enough to help them root.
Tomato cuttings take quite easily, so adding the willow water to their propagating medium should work very well.
Regards
- Catherine Dunn Says:
June 5, 2011 at 12:39 pm | ReplyI love your website, learning heaps.
Would the willow water also help young seedlings get established in the garden? At present I seem to lose about 25% of my seedlings.
- Blackthorn Says:
June 6, 2011 at 12:54 pm | ReplyHi Catherine,
The willow water mainly helps cutting grow new roots. To help young seedlings get established, seawed extract works well, as it’s very rich in minerals, and helps plants develop a good, strong root structure. Also, if you’re losing seedlings, check that they are getting enough water, or conversely, that they’re not being overwatered, and make sure that pests areen’t getting to them!
Regards
- STEPHANIE Says:
November 11, 2011 at 6:07 pm | ReplyWill this work with other than the Weeping Willow which does not grow in my area?? We have other willows that do and what about the common Pussy Willow?? If none are available and I use Asparin in it’s place what Mg. Aspirin should be used to how much water??
- Blackthorn Says:
November 11, 2011 at 11:50 pm | ReplyHi Stephanie,
As I ,mentioed in the article “Willow water can be made from cuttings of any tree or shrub of the willow family, a group of plants with the scientific name of Salix. "
So, yes, any willow can be used!The indolebutyric acid (IBA) in willow water is what makes the roots grow.
The salicylates (which are contained in aspirin) are only involved in signalling a plant’s defences, so when one part of the plant is attecked it triggers the plant’s internal defences in other parts of the plant.
So, no, aspirin can’t be used as a substutute for willow water as it doesn’t contain the growth hormones.
- steve Says:
December 21, 2011 at 7:26 am | ReplyHI Thanks for all that info – very good. Do you know if willow water can be used to help stimulate the roots of newly planted Bonsai trees? Just a thought tjhat seemed to make sense….
- Blackthorn Says:
December 21, 2011 at 12:52 pm | ReplyYes, willow water is root hormone, and will stimulate root production, but remember, the bonsai already have roots, and will grow them well enough on their own, but do need something to assist root production, and for this purpose, seaweed extract works very well. Seaweed extract is packed with a wide range of minerals and helps plants build strong root systems, so this is what I would recommend.
- steve Says:
December 21, 2011 at 6:36 pm | ReplyThanks very much – very kind of you to respond with more info, appreciate it – Have a nice Xmas.
- sara2sara Says:
January 5, 2012 at 12:41 am | Replybest article on willows ever!!! thanks
- homer Says:
January 12, 2012 at 9:52 pm | ReplyVery nicely done.
Any benefit to crushing or beating the willow pieces to expose more surface to the water while making willow water?- Blackthorn Says:
January 30, 2012 at 11:02 am | ReplyThanks! I’m guessing that if you crushed the willow branches you should get the plant hormone out a bit quicker! To be honest, I’ve never tried crushing the branches first.
- scotto Says:
February 12, 2012 at 9:22 am | ReplyIs there any way to measure concentration of the solution and a possible dilution rate to extend your brew? Ty
- Blackthorn Says:
February 12, 2012 at 11:15 pm | ReplyNot that I’m aware of without laboratory equipment! It’s a ‘home brew’ recipe, and seems to be something that people have experimented with over time until they got it to work, and passsed the information on to others.
- Jay Wang Says:
February 20, 2012 at 8:30 pm | ReplyIf I only have a limited supply of willow cuttings, how do I keep them indefinitely so that I can have a ready supply of willow water? Do I need to plant the rooted willow cuttings in soil?
I got some cuttings a while back and soaked them in water. Most died and several survived and started to have tiny new twigs and leaves. What should I do to keep them alive and producing more water?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with fellow gardeners.
- Blackthorn Says:
February 21, 2012 at 11:50 am | ReplyThere’s a simple way to keep willow cuttings indefinitely, plant one of the rooted cuttings in a pot of reasonable size, say a pot 50cm wide, and you’ll have a big bonsai willow tree too. Don’t put the cuttings in the soil unless you live on a farm, and wish to grow a very large shade tree, and if you do, don’t put them in a location where the roots will intefere with water pipes, etc.
- shashank Says:
March 4, 2012 at 1:45 pm | Replythank you v much for marvellous information. shashank, India
- Jennifer Says:
March 24, 2012 at 10:32 pm | ReplyI recently received this information from an old friend and really wasn’t sure he knew what he was talking about. So I got online to research and found your website. I am believer now…wish me luck. Thanks for the article.
- George Maurer Says:
March 25, 2012 at 7:16 pm | ReplyI was given a large bunch of young willow branches with the pollen still attached…young growth. Any reasonn why I can’t use these brances with the pollen, minus leaves, for your first method of making willow water (Pour on boiling water and leave for overnight)?
I have about 200+ grape cuttings now in pots which are in the process of rooting and wish to use the willow water to aid their rooting.Thnx
downdraft
- Blackthorn Says:
March 26, 2012 at 12:22 am | ReplyHi, the young growth is good for making willow water, just remove the pollen, that doesn’t need to be there.
Regards
- Theresa Says:
March 30, 2012 at 3:28 pm | ReplyI’m wondering if you can use pussy willow for this?
- Blackthorn Says:
March 31, 2012 at 12:32 am | ReplyYes, you can, any of the salix genus (willow family) will work. If the cuttings take root very easily, then they’re a variety that’s filled with the plant hormone you need for willow water!
- Nomar Says:
April 1, 2012 at 1:26 am | ReplyThere’s salicylic acid in some acne medication creams you can get at wal-mart & other stores. Can you use these creams to intensify the root-hormone brew?
- Blackthorn Says:
April 1, 2012 at 2:22 pm | ReplyThe short answer is no. Salicylic acid is also present in apririn and many other medications. These medications contain many other things not conducive to rooting cuttings, and remember, it’s the plant hormone IBA that induces rooting of the cuttings, which is not found in any human medication.
- Pamela Melcher Says:
April 17, 2012 at 11:37 am | ReplyGreat article. Many thanks. I would like more specific info about the proportion of willow to the water it soaks in to make the willow water. Also, when I soak cuttings in the willow water, can I reuse the willow water for other cuttings at a later time? Or will the cuttings have made it unfit for reuse? I understand that willows have been seen growing under black walnut trees. I would like to grow my own willow tree from a cutting that I recently took, and the best place by far, given the small size of the area where I can grow things and the space constraints, is under a black walnut tree. It is in a sunny place where another black walnut used to stand next to the one on the land we steward, but that tree was cut down recently.
- Blackthorn Says:
April 17, 2012 at 1:37 pm | ReplyNo specific proportions are required, this isn’t an exact science, plant hormones are chemical messengers that will stimulate the plant to respond in a certain way, the recipe supplied will provide sufficient active ingredients for the task. Ypu should be able to get several uses out of the same batch of willow water before the active ingredients are depleted or are rendered inactive.
Now, with growing a willow under a black walnut, we’re talking some seriously big trees here! The willow will grow 35-50 feet high, with a spread of around 35 feet, while a black walnut will grow around 70-90 feet tall and roughly just as wide! You mention “given the small size of the area where I can grow things and the space constraints" – hope you have the space, these are full size forest trees! Black walnuts are allelopathic, that is, they exude a chemical, juglone (5-hydroxy-alphanapthaquinone), which suppress the growth of almost every plant around them, so if you can get a willow growing in that space, that will be quite good.
There is a good article entitled “How to Plant Willows Next to Black Walnuts" – http://homeguides.sfgate.com/plant-willows-next-black-walnuts-23006.html
They state that some trees, such as willow, are more tolerant of juglone, and emphasise planting the willow tree outside of the area that will be the black walnut’s drip line when it matures, which is about 60 feet from the black walnut. This is because the juglone is released when rain washes over the leaves, and it is exuded from the roots which reach up to the drip line of the tree canopy. Also mentioned is the importance of keeping the area around the willow free from any debris from the black walnut, such as fallen branches, nuts and hulls, to prevent the juglone leaching into the soil.
- Nomar Says:
April 28, 2012 at 3:56 pm | ReplyI’ve heard you could substitute willow water with asprin
- Blackthorn Says:
April 29, 2012 at 8:37 am | ReplyAs per my previous comment, no, apririn is not a substitute. Salicylic acid is present in apririn, and in willows, and this is the source of the confusion.
Salicylic acid only signals a plant’s defences in the whole plant when one part of the plant is attacked.
Indolebutyric acid (IBA) is the plant hormone in willow water that induces rooting of the cuttings, which is not found in aspirin.
- gaiamethod Says:
May 14, 2012 at 6:21 am | ReplyLiving in Upper Egypt makes things a little more ‘interesting’ as I have to make everything!!! i want to take cuttings from my husbands’ fig and apple trees and discovered this willow hormone rooting only yesterday! Thankfully we can get willow here so I will get some and plant them on our farm which we are building towards now. Many thanks for this really good information!!!
- Kady Strouse Says:
May 16, 2012 at 1:25 am | Replywill this work if i water my veggie garden and flowers with the willow water?
- Blackthorn Says:
May 16, 2012 at 2:55 am | ReplyThere would be no point to that, they already have roots! Better using the liquid from a worm farm to help them grow, compost tea, liquid fertiliser made out of weeds/comfrey leaves etc.
- gaiamethod Says:
May 16, 2012 at 7:33 amCompost tea? Here in Luxor we tea like it is going out of fashion but it is powder tea!!! There is always a lot of it and i have been putting it on my compost heap with all the stuff my chickens can’t eat. But I’m not sure if it is going to work that way? They burn everything here in the food oven even dried donkey manure so trying to get a compost heap going effectively is a challenge!!! Tea compost would be a bonus!!
- Blackthorn Says:
May 16, 2012 at 10:28 amYes compost tea, it’s tea for plants, not people! Perhaps I should write up an article on how to make up this amazing brew for your garden!
- gaiamethod Says:
May 17, 2012 at 2:19 pmGood idea! I would be interested to read it!
- Richard Eckert Says:
May 16, 2012 at 7:09 am | ReplyIt was too late in the season as the blueberrys had already budded. I am impatient, so I cut some blueberry sprigs about 3 inches long, dipped them in my homade willow hormone, and watered them a few times with hormone and also water. They did not wilt. I shall keep a daily eye on them and hopefully get four more medium blueberry bushes.
- Blackthorn Says:
May 16, 2012 at 10:22 am | ReplyGood luck with it, hope they grow!
- L-Jay Says:
May 27, 2012 at 12:56 pm | ReplyHi
I know you said that the leaves are not used, but if you make willow water with the leaves as well as the stems, will that work too? - Blackthorn Says:
May 28, 2012 at 8:28 am | ReplyIf you add the leaves, you’ll just be adding a whole lot more unecessary compounds that are not known to assist root production in cuttings. The willow leaves will just leach out flavonoids, salicylates, reducing sugars, amino acids, phenolic compounds, and tannins into your willow water. With all this extra stuff in there, chances are the willow water probably won’t keep that well! Not sure if all these chemicals will react with the IBA and whether they will affect how well it would work either. Best to just remove the leaves.
- cathy rowe Says:
May 28, 2012 at 5:12 pm | ReplyI come from uncountable generations of farmers, & have hort degree. while studying hort. at u of del., I set out to debunk the old farmers “wives tales" I grew up with, mainly my grandmothers trick of rooting her cuttings in willow water. Ha! boy was I sutprised! Dispite 4 yrs of formal hort. education, I’ve gone “back to my roots" & grow exclusivly organic. morale of the story…. never underestimate granny!
- Blackthorn Says:
May 29, 2012 at 1:13 am | ReplyHi Cathy,
There’s a lot of tried and proven wisdom there if we are clever enough to seek it from those who have already gained these skills in the older generations.Dr Vandana Shiva who was in the film “The Economics of Happiness" talks about the importance of “Grandmother’s Universities" as an important way of transferring skills from one generation to the next.
From Dr Vandana Shiva’s web site:
“The Grandmothers’ University … is aimed at both celebrating and validating the wisdom of our grandmothers, as well as transmitting this to future generations to arrest the rapid erosion of skills, knowledge and values which women had evolved over millenia to live sustainably. Through the Grandmothers’ University also hopes to nurture the trans-generational responsibility, both of grandmother to transmit the Traditional Knowledge and our future generation to seek, receive and honour the accumulated wisdom of earlier generations."
- Misako Says:
June 23, 2012 at 10:05 pm | ReplyHi,
Six years ago, we added a twig of curly willow to a flower arrangement to add interest to the display, and you guessed it, it rooted. When I told my plant-savvy friend, she told me about how its rooting hormone helps other plants to take root, and it’s done wonders streamlining that process for me on various kinds of cuttings. My husband planted it outside in our small yard next to the house, hoping that it would be a small ornamental tree, but unfortunately, (in just six years), it is now as tall as our three story house, and has to come down. I hate losing my beautiful curly willow – there’s no help for that, but I also hate losing my source of rooting hormone. Is there a way to prepare the willow tips – perhaps dry them – to preserve the hormone long-term? Maybe freezing very concentrated tea?- Blackthorn Says:
June 24, 2012 at 11:16 am | ReplyHi Misako,
You do realise that you can bonsai most trees to keep them the size that you want, whether they are in pots or in the ground. If you cut down the willow at ground level, it will regrow, and a small sapling will grow up from the stump. Prune it to the height where you would like it to start branching, and keep the branches short by frequent pruning. If that sounds too tricky, take a willow cutting and put it in water till it roots, then grow the tree in a pot or container. Prune it for willow tips when needed, and then cut the branches back short when it loses all its leaves in winter, it regrows more branches in spring – this is what I do, as I don’t have the space for a full sized willow, so I grow it in a 40cm (16″) wide pot and I prune the tree to keep it about 1.5m (5′) high.
Regards
- Charlie Little Says:
June 27, 2012 at 7:32 pm | ReplyI wonder if this will also work in plant tissue culture propagation as the media liquid in the agar or gelatin preparation? Boiling water is mentioned so I’m guessing it doesn’t affect the hormone efficacy.
- Blackthorn Says:
June 28, 2012 at 4:13 pm | ReplyI’m not really sure if the willow water might affect the sterility of the agar medium, or if the other constituents of the willow water will affect the in-vitro cell replication. I don’t have any experience propagating plants using tissue culture. IBA has a melting point of 125 °C so it survives boiling in water at atmospheric temperature. Might be a worthwhile experiment? Mind you, there are research papers on the use of IBA (chemically pure laboratory grade) in tissue culture systems, and only the absence or extremely low levels of IBA or other hormones during the initiation stage favoured shoot growth, this stage is far better without it. In the transplantation and multiplication stages, IBA assisted new shoot production and shoot growth rate. I think willow water may be too crude a mix for such a delicate and sensitive process to be honest with you.
- Sarah Othman Says:
July 29, 2012 at 2:08 pm | ReplyCool beans….!
- lloyd Says:
August 3, 2012 at 7:45 am | ReplyApparently it also works for grafting – I will try it this southern spring an let you know how it goes.
Cheers Lloyd - Lisa Stringer Says:
September 1, 2012 at 4:26 pm | ReplyMy mother in law’s weeping willow tree died and fell over and yesterday was cut up by my husband and son. Can the wood or bark be used in any way, either medicinally or for willow water purposes? I hate the thought of this going to waste.
- Carmela Martini Says:
September 29, 2012 at 2:09 am | ReplySo glad to have come upon your blog! I’m new at this and was wondering if it’s too late in the season to try to propagate some plants now. I would love to get them ready for planting in my yard by spring. Thanks!
- Blackthorn Says:
September 29, 2012 at 6:22 am | ReplyDepends which side of the planet you’re on, it’s spring down here in the southern hemisphere! I’m assuming you’re in the northern hemisphere – if they have just lost their leaves or about to, you’re best to wait until late winter, and take cuttings while the willow tree is dormant. When the weather warms up, and leaves emerge, they will grow roots very quickly. The cuttings can go into the ground fairly quicly if you jsut keep their soil moist.
- Carmela Martini Says:
September 29, 2012 at 10:41 amI thought so. I’m quite excited to get started. You will probably hear from me again in the spring. Thanks again!
- lloyd Says:
September 29, 2012 at 10:56 am | ReplyWell I can report that willow water works very well for grafting.
The best results were from the following method – 1 make the whip graft cut in the wood you want to graft on – 2 soak this in willow water for about 5 mins – 3 make the second cut on the tree you want to graft onto – 4 make the join and bind with grafting tape etc. good luck
- Angelo (admin) Says:
August 23, 2013 at 2:47 am | ReplyYes, that’s correct, from my understanding, the IBA in the willow water actually assists the formation of callus tissue, and that will form whatever cells the plant requires.
With cuttings, it will form roots, while with grafts it will form new cambium cells (the green layer under the bark which you need to line up to join the graft).
- s. wendel Says:
October 8, 2012 at 3:18 am | Replysaeweed is good to add to the willow tea, however… seaweed has a small amount of nitrogen, which almost completely stops root growth. if you can get ahold of some 100% organic marine algae- it contains no nitrogen. the algae i use is 0-4-4. ive even heard of leonardite working well also or extracs of leonardite, such as humic acid. not sure, however, if it contains N.
- Rachel Says:
October 22, 2012 at 10:01 am | ReplyGreat Info! This really helped me out with my school project on weeping willows. Thanks!
- Twilla Logan Says:
January 10, 2013 at 4:05 pm | ReplyI have read of willow water in a book by William Cullina and also in a book by Michael Dirr.
Michael Dirr says you can keep willow water in the refrigerator for 6 years. Mr. Cullina makes a more general statement, saying that willow water can be stored in the refrigerator for several years.
Michael Dirr: THE REFERENCE MANUAL OF WOODY PLANT PROPAGATION, 2nd edition, Page 33.
William Cullina: NATIVE TREES, SHRUBS, & VINES, Pages 272-273
- Mikkel Says:
January 19, 2013 at 3:14 pm | ReplyIm going to use root hormone for some rare seeds that have short viability, but since it is winter and my willow has dropped its leaves long ago, can I still use it for willow water? Yesterday I did an experiment: I chopped a 1-2 year twig and put it in water and placed infront of the fireplace. The twig looked dead and collorless both on the outside and inside, but after one hour the twig was filled with small white dots all over. (I guess they are roots forming? ).
Anyway, my question is, are there any significant seasonal variation in the presence of hormones in willow? Can I use it all year round?
- Blackthorn Says:
January 20, 2013 at 2:22 am | ReplyHi Mikkel, root hormone is only for rooting cuttings, not germinating seeds.
Since you would only root cuttings during their growing season, you would therefore only use willow only when it is growing , not when it is dormant.
The small white dots that appeared after you soaked the dormant willow branches in water in front of the fire are just air bubbles emerging from the plant tissue, no plant can show growth of root tissue within an hour. Not even willow grows that fast!
If your rare seeds are meant to be germinated in spring or summer, then it is best to wait until then as often plant growth is not only regulated by temperature but daylight length too. Techniques such as using heating mats to apply bottom heat to seedling trays works well for many seeds, but I recommend that you check what the requirements are for the rare seeds in terms of light, temperature, humidity, sowing depth, etc.
- Mikkel Says:
January 20, 2013 at 9:32 am | ReplyThanks for your quick response!
I already made the willow water anyway.
The seeds are Banisteriopsis Caapi (Ayahuasca), and they only come in late autumn and have a viability only for a month or two, so it couldnt wait any longer. Im groing them under LED lights, so hopefully it will work out.
I have done tissue culture before and know that stuff like BAP and Kinetin are great for germinating seeds in sterile envirenment, so I figured that difficult seeds under normal conditions could benefit from root hormone as well, but I dont know.
I soaked half of them in the willow water for 4 hours now, and half of them in honey water, so at least lets call it an experiment.
- Trudi Says:
January 27, 2013 at 12:56 pm | ReplyExcellent information. Growing up in Europe, I have always known of the many uses of willows (including their use for carpet beaters – rather painful when used for corporal punishment), but I have never heard of willow water. As I am a compulsive propagator of plant material (I had over 400 rooted lavender cuttings last year), I have been using mainly honey because of its antiseptic qualities, but now I am keen to try willow water. As we are now heading into late summer in Australia, is it too late to take new branches to make willow water?
Also, what kind of willow do you have growing in a pot as I want to do likewise. My garden is too small and I don’t think that the ACT government would appreciate it if I planted a willow on their land.
Can you also advise how well willow water works with Australian natives, such as Callistemon and Grevilleas?
- Blackthorn Says:
January 29, 2013 at 12:32 am | ReplyHi, Im growing weeping willow (Salix babylonica) in a pot.
The brnches are still growing in summer so they should work for making plant rooting hormone.
Cuttings of Australian natives are normally treated with rooting hormone so the willow water will work when propagating them.
- Trudi Says:
March 5, 2013 at 12:24 pmHi again and thanks for the advice.
Since then I have gone out and picked some weeping willow branches, made willow water and also placed a bundle of sticks into water. I now have some 25 rooted willow cuttings.
So if there is someone in Canberra who would like to grow their own weeping willow in a pot, I gladly share the cuttings.
- LIKUNSE LIFUA Says:
February 1, 2013 at 2:04 pm | ReplyVery useful article, thanks for sharing.
- Hrishi Says:
February 2, 2013 at 6:07 am | Replyi’m trying to root coffee plant cutting.Is it even possible to root a coffee cutting ? The tropical here is hot humid with no cold.Can you suggest any tropical tree that i can use to extract natural rooting hormone ?
- Blackthorn Says:
February 2, 2013 at 8:05 am | ReplyYou can root coffee Coffea arabica cuttings, but they do take a long time to root, about 8 weeks or longer I believe, they are not easy cuttings to propagate. Best to use semi-woody or woody cuttings with rooting hormone. They can also be propagated by air layering apparently.
Willows don’t grow in the tropics, I’m unaware of any tropical plant that contains natural rooting hormones that can be extracted. If anyone has any idea, many people would like to know!
- adoboloco (@adoboloco) Says:
September 14, 2013 at 3:03 amWe live in Hawaii and have a pussy willow in a pot. It’s growing fine and am testing some willow tea now on some clippings from chili pepper plants.
- Tony Says:
March 5, 2013 at 7:22 am | ReplyMany thanks for sharing your in-depth knowledge it is much appreciated, especially the bit about the tips having the highest concentration of active ingredients.
- Tina Says:
March 16, 2013 at 10:37 pm | ReplyFor those who have no willow growing, can willow tips be harvested when fresh and then dried for use in places willow does not grow? General question–can dried willow be used as effectively as long as it was harvested correctly?
Thanks- Blackthorn Says:
March 17, 2013 at 6:36 am | ReplyFrom the references I can find on the chemical properties of IBA, it is meant to be stable at room temperatures, it melts at 125 degrees celcius and decomposes before it reaches boiling point, so that would suggest that it should keep as a dried product, but I’m only speculating here, the only way to know is to try dried willow twigs to see if they work!
- Robert Says:
March 21, 2013 at 2:26 am | ReplyGreat information! Only I do not find a clear suggestion as to the ratio which is most effective. That is, about what total length of small willow branches, cut into pieces, in what quantity of water? Can it be made too weak or too strong??
Thanks - Blackthorn Says:
March 21, 2013 at 11:20 am | ReplyThe beauty of this technique is that you don’t need exact proportions, that’s a modern preoccupation of exactness which isn’t something we need to be too concerned with, mainly because it’s a completely unnatural state of affairs. Unlike the artificial systems which humans create which aim for unrealistic uniformity, Nature thrives on variation – there is biological variation in all living organisms, and as a result, the percentage of IBA will vary (within a certain range) from one willow to another, and from month to month and from one year. Herbal medicines vary similarly, and they’ve worked for centuries across all cultures.
Most commercial rooting hormones available contain the rooting hormone IBA in a talc dry base in concentrations from 0.1% to 0.8% active ingredient for use with the dry dip method. Liquid applications range from as low as 20ppm to 10000 ppm active ingredient (0.02%-1.0%). Only a tiny amount is used, that’s all that’s needed. In living organisms, hormones are chemical messengers that regulate biochemical processes over longer periods of time, they triggering sustained changes, they are not needed in huge quantities.
It’s also important to understand the physical properties of the chemical IBA. IBA is not very soluble in water, so only a tiny amount will dissolve into your willow water solution anyway. If we look at the physical properties of IBA, in particular solubility, we see that it is possible to dissolve 34 times more IBA in an acetone than can be dissolved in water.
IBA Solubility – In water at 20 degrees C (mg /L): 14,700
IBA Solubility – In organic solvents at 20 degrees C (mg /L): 500,000 (In Acetone)With your willow water, put in as much twigs as you can into the container, then cover them with water in either of the two methods described. Only so much IBA can possibly dissolve in water, and that amount works to stimulate root growth.
- richard hiew Says:
April 19, 2013 at 6:33 am | Reply“Willows don’t grow in the tropics" :your words on Feb 2, 2013. Some people say otherwise. Please reconfirm as I live in a tropical country.
- Blackthorn Says:
April 19, 2013 at 9:26 am | ReplyHi Richard,
I’m not in a tropical climate, so I’m only going by what reference material I can find!
I know willows grow in sub-tropics of China, but but if you have any information you can share for our readers in the tropical climates, please let us know.
Much appreciatedThanks
- richard Says:
April 20, 2013 at 6:28 pm | ReplyHi blackthorn,
I have included below two pic of the same tree taken this morning near where I live ie, Borneo. I know very little about trees, but this one looks like a willow. Is it a willow tree? can I make rooting water from it?
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/69643473/w1.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/69643473/w2.JPG- William Helder (@Liam_Helder) Says:
July 12, 2013 at 2:36 pm | ReplyThat is indeed a willow.
- Ray Gremillion Says:
April 22, 2013 at 4:17 am | ReplyDude! This is fabulous. I live in SE Louisiana and this area has willows growing abundantly everywhere along our waterways. Would you mind if I share this info on other gardening websites and link them here?
- Blackthorn Says:
April 22, 2013 at 1:11 pm | ReplyHi Ray, you can describe the article and provide a link back to it, I hope that’s what you mean! Thanks
- katehallberg Says:
May 27, 2013 at 4:35 pm | ReplyPlease be careful with non-natives, especially if they’re invasive! I live in the Front Range of Colorado and have battled Crack Willows for years. They grow fast, break easily and root from anything. As a friend recently said, “you can Never get rid of them!" That’s almost completely true. Nasty buggers.
- Blackthorn Says:
May 28, 2013 at 3:13 am | ReplyJust remember that this is an international site, what’s native to one region is exotic to another (at this point of time only though, it changes over long periods of time!).
In Permaculture, there aren’t problems only solutions, our approach is that within every perceived problem there is an inherent solution, what you have in your case is an unutilised output – please see my article on the design principle “Attitudinal Principles" = http://deepgreenpermaculture.com/permaculture/permaculture-design-principles/11-attitudinal-principles/
If we perform a function analysis on a willow tree – see my article “Each Element Performs Many Functions" – http://deepgreenpermaculture.com/permaculture/permaculture-design-principles/2-each-element-performs-many-functions/ we can see how the outputs of a willow can be utilised constructively so they don’t become a problem.
The wood of Crack Willow hybrids is used to make cricket bats, it’s a real resource waiting to be utilised.
Just trying to highlight how “permaculture thinking" works in such circumstances, hope this helps!
- Karen Says:
May 29, 2013 at 3:22 pm | ReplyFantastic article! I am sooo excited to try this with blueberry cuttings. I live in NC and my bushes have a bunch of new growth this year that is just starting to harden up a bit. Do you think I could use this willow water to start cuttings?
Thanks,
Karen- Blackthorn Says:
May 30, 2013 at 2:07 am | ReplyYou can definitely use willow water for blueberry cuttings!
Blueberries can be propagated from softwood cuttings (4″-5″ inches long) in late spring from the tips of the current season’s growth, or from hardwood cuttings (5″-6″ inches long) when they are dormant and in the middle of winter (to ensure sufficient chilling, usually late Jan through Feb in the US) from strong shoots or “whips" that grew the previous summer.
- Vera DiblikovA Says:
June 3, 2013 at 12:38 pm | ReplyI have Salix erythrobotrioides for more than 30 years, by hard prunning we kept it 2,5 m high, but our friends with only one sapling from ours tree and pair pergolas in 5 years covers their little garden completely. Thanks for wery useful and perfect article.
- Daniel Newhouse Says:
June 5, 2013 at 7:20 pm | ReplyThe water to willow ratio was not addressed. How much water and how much wood? How do you suggest we make gel from this? Can I use a willow mulch to make the tea? Last but not least, can I give the tea to my plants before i cut clones from them?
- Blackthorn Says:
June 6, 2013 at 11:53 am | ReplyTo answer your three questions:
1. Think of it as making tea, the traditional way without a teabag! There are no standardised measurements here. As long as the hormone in the willow dissolves in the water, it will work.
2.You don’t need to make it a gel, you soak the cuttings in the liquid, and it soaks into them, which is better than a gel that sits on the surface.
3. If your plants already have roots, then there’s no point giving them rooting hormone. Once you take cuttings from your plants, you want to induce the cuttings to grow roots.
- Robert Says:
June 7, 2013 at 12:40 am | ReplyThe article at top of this thread is very nice — detailed and informative. I have produced a jar of willow water using the procedure from the article, and new growth from a neighbors tree.
I do wish to have one bit of clarification!
The article at top says the willow water can be used up to two months, IF refrigerated in a tight sealed container. However I find statements in other forums such as “keeping a container of ww on my greenhouse workbench". That would certainly NOT be refrigerated!
Does the ww quickly loose effectiveness if not cooled? Realistically, how soon is the product no longer useable? Does a willow tree produce new growth throughout the summer, allowing more ww to be produced?
Thanks for comments………. Robert
- Blackthorn Says:
June 7, 2013 at 5:33 am | ReplyThanks! If you want to keep the willow water for several weeks, it’s best to refrigerate it to slow down the breakdown, it will eventually start breaking down and lose its active constituents as would a glass of herbal tea left outside for a really long time. Typically you’d use it all in a few days if you propagate large batches of cuttings.
A willow tree is growing through spring and summer, and therefore will have green wood that contains IBA hormone that you can use..
- Jamie Says:
June 24, 2013 at 1:23 am | ReplyIs it ok to boil with the leaves on bark ?
- Blackthorn Says:
June 24, 2013 at 5:01 am | ReplyThe active constituent is in the bark, so there is no benefit in using the leaves.
- Julie Says:
June 29, 2013 at 11:59 pm | ReplyCan you freeze willow water? Living in the Finger Lakes region of NYS I often find myself with idle time in the grey months, and experimenting with plants. I think ww would come in handy….
- Blackthorn Says:
June 30, 2013 at 10:04 am | ReplyLooking up the chemical handling information for indolebutyric acid (IBA), the active component in willow water, we find that we are instructed to “keep from freezing", so, the answer is no, you definitely cannot freeze willow water, but you can keep it cool in the refrigerator to make it last longer.
- Donna Says:
July 23, 2013 at 6:19 pm | ReplyI am hoping to propagate some Leyland cypress cuttings with willow water. Once I soak the cutting in willow water do I have to plant it in dirt or can I just keep it in water until it roots?
- Rita Says:
August 18, 2013 at 9:58 pm | ReplyI found fascinating your article about the willow tree and it is true that soaking a thick branch from this tree, it grows root easily and it sure. Did mine :0). I have 3 willow small branches that grew new roots and leaves from the cuttings in a simple tap water in a vase .
- william Says:
September 3, 2013 at 8:02 pm | ReplyI wonder if willow water can be used to grow seedles grapes out of store useing vine part.
- Angelo (admin) Says:
September 3, 2013 at 11:48 pm | ReplyI believe you need one year old woody material to propagate grapes.
- Hilda Rivera Says:
September 14, 2013 at 7:31 pm | ReplyI have a weeping willow tree and it’s huge. Thank you so much for all that information on making Willow Water for rooting plants. Love your videos and will continue to see them and tell people about this unique website. Greatly appreciated : )
- Andrea Frtalich Says:
September 19, 2013 at 3:07 am | ReplyHi! I enjoy your article! I love weeping willow tree. There is one growing wild with other trees & such. I broke off 5 branches&put them in water& left outside. It’s mid~summer when I did this&the clippings first turned brown & looked dead but then they sprouted leaves&roots&still in water. I’m getting ready to put them in rich soil&keep them outside until it gets cool.I’m in Michigan&&the winters are mild so I think they be okay.After last frost I will plant them outside.Wish me luck!
- Angelo (admin) Says:
September 19, 2013 at 11:56 am | ReplyWishing you luck! : )
- mahesh Says:
October 1, 2013 at 2:38 pm | ReplyIs there any other plant which is an alternative in semi arid tropics?
- Angelo (admin) Says:
October 1, 2013 at 11:06 pm | ReplyNot really sure, I’ve checked for research papers on other plant that contain IBA, and it appears that Indole-3-butyric acid (IBA) was identified as an endogenous compound in leaves and kernels of maize or corn (Zea mays). It has also been found in tobacco and cypress leaves. I can’t say what levels of IBA these contain, or how you would extract them. Then there is the question whether any of these grow in semi arid tropics? You would know what grows in your climate better than me!
- mahesh Says:
October 3, 2013 at 12:24 pmThank you. we got maize, tobaco and some varieties of cypress. Can’t we apply same procedure to these plant parts? And we got plenty of cotyledon type succulents, country borage (karpooravalli) and money plants which are known for their fast rooting property. Is there any possibility of using them in this regard?
COUNTRY BORAGE (karpooravalli) link : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plectranthus_amboinicus
- Angelo (admin) Says:
October 3, 2013 at 1:15 pm | ReplyHi Mahesh, why not try, it can’t hurt to set up some tests and see what results you get! Use several cuttings for each test, one test will be the control group, no plant rooting hormones, then a similar amount of cuttings for each separate treatment, it would be a very simple side-by-side comparison.
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Posted on October 13th, 2013
Basic Carpenter's Tools for the Beginner - A Guide
by DarkAxel » Wed Sep 25, 2013 1:00 am
So, you've finally gotten tired of paying contractors to build you stuff. Or maybe you are a beginning hobbyist. Regardless, your new-found interest in carpentry is going to require tools. You can't drive nails with your fists, and improvising tools is a recipe for frustration and wasted time. So I thought I'd share some of my knowledge and lay out a basic set of tools that a resourceful individual can use to do 99% of the jobs they undertake. Keep in mind that this is a bare-bones list an not a comprehensive list of the stuff I've got stored in my toolboxes. Alrighty then. Here we go.1.)No self-respecting man can call himself a carpenter without having a hammer. A hammer is the most basic tool an aspiring carpenter can own. If you don't have one of those, you might as well call yourself a swami. Now a lot of people will insist that you need several different hammers, but I don't cotton to that train of thought. All you need is a decent claw hammer in the 14oz to 18oz range. Sure, for really delicate work you might want a smaller, lighter hammer, but if you practice enough there isn't a single nail or brad you can't use. I use a Stanley Fat Max 16oz framing hammer, and the 18 bucks I paid for it is pennies compared to the money I've made with it. the Stanley has it's flaws, but as long as the striking surface and the claws are quality, your hammer will see you through without breaking at a bad moment.
Ball-peen hammers and hatchet hammers aren't made for carpentry, and shouldn't be relied on for anything other than their intended purpose.
2.)A decent flatbar (AKA prybar). A good prybar and a hammer will serve you for most of the prying and demo you will run across. Get one with a 90 degree angle on one end and an 30 degree angle on the other, and don't cheap out with bargain purchases. Those cheap flatbars aren't tempered properly and will bend quite easily at the worst possible moment. Get one that is between 10" and 14". You'll be absolutely floored by what you can accomplish with them.
one thing I've noticed when untrained folk try to use prybars and hammers to pull apart wood or pull nails is that they try to yank the tool backward. Instead, try pushing or pulling them at a 90 degree angle. If you got good tool you will get much more leverage. Sure, you'll scar up the wood a bit, but if you hammer the wood back in that damage will be sandwiched between the boards instead of being visible (unless you fucked up the cut or nailed the board in wrong. And if you find yourself needing more leverage, you can slip a pipe over the non-working end.
3.)A decent chisel. with a solid chisel, you can do spot-cutting to fit, pull small staples, and drive nails in tight spots. You can also use them to cut nails, brads, and other fasteners when needed. Just make sure that the striking surface is durable (avoid bakelite, polymer, or plastic striking surfaces in favor of hardened steel) or the handle will crumble. Keep them sharpened, and make sure you only sharpen the grind side.
When using a chisel, make sure you put the grind-side down if you are cutting in a certain direction. If not, you'll cut too deep and weaken the lumber. the grind provides directs the hammering force int the desired direction without cutting too deep into your workpiece.
4.)A well-made tape-measure (hereafter referred to as a tape-line. What can I say, that's how I learned it). Without a tape-line, you can't make precise measurements for cutting, digging, or fastening. I recommend a tape-line with a belt-clip that is at least 16' to 30', is able to "stand off" (that's the distance you can extend the line without it collapsing) of at least 8', has a hooked end, and is graduated in segments of 1/16th to 1/32 of an inch. Tape-lines are crucial for estimates and for measuring cuts for the overall length of lumber.
You can also use tape-lines to find plum (if you hold it right), square (measurements from corner to corner should be equal), and to act as a strait-edge when ripping lumber (Hold the tape-line at the desired width at the edge of the piece, put a pencil at the hook end, and slide the whole mess down the board). If you have a steady hand, you can also use a tape-line to mark curves (run a screw into the center of your curve, hook the end on the screw, and hold the pencil at the desired measurement, then swing your end around the center. the screw will hold the tape-line end in place. Get good enough at this and you can mark out really complex pieces).
5.)A pencil. You don't need a carpenter's pencil (though I recommend one due to their standardized dimensions and overall usefulness), you just need one that can make visible marks for cuts and for writing down measurements. A pencil is something a carpenter should have on him at all times during a job, along with his hammer and a few loose nails.
6.)A utility or carpenter's knife. These allow you to sharpen your pencil, shave wood, smooth out chisel cuts, and cut other things that are cut-able when you run across them on the job (and you will).
7.)Either a framing square or a speed (triangle-type) square these allow you not only to mark square cuts, but also allow you to mark the angled cuts that you might need to make. Don't get cheap. For speed squares, I prefer Swanson or DeWalt made of aluminum(they are thicker and won't break as easily). Overall, though, I prefer a framing square if you can get away from it. A framing square has a lot of info on it. Everything from tables to figure out rise to how many nails are in a pound are stamped on a good framing square. they are also sized to match common stud spacing. I have an ulterior motive for recommending speed squares, though. Reading one is a dying art, one that I hope can be revived.
8.)A level sized to fit your projects. Obviously, the longer the level the more accurate the reading, but I recommend a 4' level for general construction. You can use them in combination with a tape-line to find the rise of existing construction, and you can use them to find plum for new construction (no need for a plumb-bob). Just make sure you check them (they should read identically if you flip them over no matter what you are trying to find level or plum for), and they make great straight-edges for marking plumb or level on long projects.
9.)A tool belt. Tool belts allow you to keep your crucial tools on hand at any time along with fasteners, and free up your hands for climbing if needed. Get a good one that is adjustable and durable.
10.)A saw. I recommend a circular saw (Skill saw) made by DeWalt, Porter-Cable, or Milwaukee. They may cost more, but this is certainly a case of buy-once-cry-once, because you really can't wear those fuckers out. If you are more of a power-free kind of guy, your best bet is to buy a hand-saw that isn't made of stainless or otherwise cheap steel, although making square cuts take more skill (pun intended) with a hand saw.
11.)A set of screwdrivers or a bit driver with multiple bits (hand powered or electric) in common Phillips, slotted, and socket sizes (1/4" and 3/8' sizes). Once again, don't cheap out, and if you go the bit route, buy in bulk. You WILL lose some of them (most likely the ones you use most frequently).
12.)A drill. This can be electric or brace-and-bit. Make sure you get a bit set that includes common sizes. Once again, buy in bulk, because you WILL break the smaller ones.
13.)A socket wrench and set in standard or metric (depending on your AO). Lag and carrier bolts use hex-heads and bolts, and none of the other options (adjustable wrench, channel locks, vise grips, etc) should be used unless you rounded off the head.
14.)Quoted from below because I overlooked the chalk-line, aka chalk-box.
A great timesaver and almost a requirement when running lath for metal roofing.JustsayMo wrote:Chalkline: Used for wall layout on the floor deck, ripping/crosscutting plywood, cutting a rafter ends (I run them wild and cut the tails after the rafter is installed), snapping the layout line for the first course of sheathing/roofing/etc so I can work from above; marking studs under sheathing for quicker nailing, long straight line, plumb bob..... the list goes on and on.
15.)String-line: A spool of string-line will make tasks like setting poles for pole barns, post-and-beam foundations, decks, etc much easier.
If you have the above tools, you can handle the vast majority of carpentry If I've neglected anything, other experienced carpenters are free to chime in, and questions are, as always, welcome.
DA.
Edits: a mistake I spotted.
Posted on October 13th, 2013